desoto1939

No to be smart with my reply, but did you install the gasket on the water pump. Also If I remember one of the bolts small one does not use the washer. Rich Hartung

Bob: If I remember correctly Mother Mopar had way to telling the direct wire size on our cars/trucks. There incorporated a striker or mark into the cloth covering. It did not matter what the intital color of the wire is or could be. That was done to help with the connecting of the wires to the various components. This is taken from memory so I might be a little off: 16 gage 1 striker mark 14 gage 2 striker marks 12 gage 3 striker marks 10 gage 4 striker marks. I know some people prefer to use the 14 gage as the smallest gage when redoing the wire in a car. Rhode Island wire does have the various gage wires in the colors and also with the appropriate sticker mark. So you could get a 1 striker on a 14 gage to make it look original if you are going for point judging but then you have the heaver gage wire instead the thinner wire. Are you still going to Carlise instead of Hershey this year. Let me know. If going to Hershey mabe we can meet up again by the same spot at the stairs that go over from the Chocolate field to the Green Field. Let me know. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Is the oil leaking from the pinion seal. Sin ce you have the hyboid rear the pinion seal is near the low point of the didd. Check that area. Rich HArtung

I did a search on google and found that AC made a 4lb double seal cap the model is RC2 and was used on Corvette's 53-54. So they should be avialble. Do some searching on RC2 rad caps. rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK, So now you bought the new toy for your car. So please explain how you get the units to work and get the car up in the air on all four stands without the car being in a bad angle. And then also how do you get the car off the stands. Who is the guy making them and does he have an email address. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Most paint codes were three digit numbers. You can try to look for a D15 paint chart for Canadian built Dodge to see if you can find a reference number on the plate. Try looking on ebay for paint charts for your car. This might help you track down the original color Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

MY 39 Desoto uses the manual control shut off value at the back of the head. I also have one up at the bypass connection. This way if I have to remove the heater I just disconnect the hoses at the heater and drin the hose and do not have to drain the radiator. So at least 39 Dodge/Desoto/Chrysler and Ply used the manual shutoff value at the back of the head. Rich HArtung

The cable controlled one would be only used if you have the control knob on your lower dash panel Rich HArtung

I have sister car to your 39 Chrysler. I have the 39 Desoto Model S6. But no one can tellthe difference between the Custom and the Deluxe Model. The over drive would use the rod to pull it own and there should be several relays for the unit to work properly. Do you have the service manual on the unit it would be the same as in the 39 Desoto and I could send that to you. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

the correct dizzy for your 52 Plymouth would be the autolite IAT-4011. According to my autolite catalog dated 1954 here is were you can get the same dizzy from: Ply 51-52 IAT 4011 51-52 Dodge truck B-3, B,C used the IAT-4011 and the IAT-4011A, Dodge 50 D33 IAT-4011 Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

I sent you a PM about the ammco brake gage. Rich Hartung

Dave I replied to your email that you sent to my home email about the tools. Rich HArtung

in you oginal post you stated they used 5/32 thick shoe lining and the original lining should be 3/16 so you are already have a thinner pad are you sure they gave the correct shoes when you picked them up from the brake shop. Are you using an Ammco brake gage to make the toe and Heel adjustments. What have you been doing to move the shoes in and out?. Is this happening on all axles or just the fronts? I have the Ammco gage to make the adjustments for the toe and heel. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Just looed in my McQuay Noriis suspension catalog and here are the numbers that are used for your Tierod ends. The numbers will be used across all manufacturuers. Dodge 1939- 53 All 6 cyl models Right rod right side ES60R left Side ES60L For Left rod Right side ES-131R for Left side ES131L Also checked my Toledo Steel catalog and got the same numbers If you search on Ebay you will find these Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Joe. I alsonoticed in the picture that it loos as if you might have some fraying on your lower radiator hose you can see it just above the control arm top. It is not your fan belt but the rad hose or it is the metal tube that might have some scratches. Joe I do have the miller tool to hold the frame of the control arm so you do not collapse the arm you might be able to use it so that when screwing in the bushing you do not pinch the arm. Rich Hartung

Firt off since there is no real pressure and I mean pressure from the weight of the car pushing down on the tire then the spare would not leak as fast. Do you have a tube in your tire that is leaking? Did you checkthe vale stem to make sure the inner core is in real tight. Do you have valve extention on your value stems. Is there any thing that might make the vale stemm move and then have a small leak. I would put it back on the car and then take a sprayer and wet the tire around the rim and also around the stem to see if you have any air bubbles showing. With having the weight on the tire this is causing something to help push the air out of the tire. Do you have rim protector on the inner most circle of the rim to protect the tube from getting chaffed just like you have on a bicucle rim to protect the tube from being cut buy the spokes. The could be a small piece of metal cutting into the tube if installed. Just some thought for your Joe. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

when new shoe lining was installed did the brake lining installed then use an Ammco brake safe arch machine to make sure the lining did not have any high spots. The shoe is placed in the machine and then according to the size of the brake shoe they set the shoe to pivot against a sanding drum so the shoe lining is then perfectly arched to the shoe. This was always done on the old cars when a shop reline d the brake shoes. Now that shops do not replace riveted lining this steps are not being done and the arching tools are not in many garages or might be sitting back in a stoage room. If you had a quality brake shop relining company that they should have done this to the shoe and also checked that the brake shoe itself had a perfect arch and was not warped in or out of the correct arch for your shoes. If you want to see one of these machine search ebay for Ammco safe arc brake tool. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Yes you are correct. The original was a rough cut and was painted black. Most restores go for the oak with a high gloss finish but this is not correct. If you take your truck to an AACA judging event the high gloss oak will have major points deducted from your truck. They have changed their judging rule book and have noted that the finish should be flat black on the older trucks. So beware is going to an AACA event and being judged. Local shows it does not matter. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

A clock is a nice accessory, not a needed item for an antique car. Yes the costs of these early clocks are very expensive. So now you know what ones looks like and snap a picture of the clock and keep it in your files and take it with you to swap meets. During a visit to Hershey about 15 years ago I found a 39 Desoto coupe in one of the sections that had an original clock in the glove box lid. At that time I had never seen one. Tried to negotiate with the owner but did not work out. On my way back to my site I walked in toa vendot and I saw the clock sitting on his table. If I had not seenthe other one I would have passed it and not even given any thought. So I got it for a good price $25. Then went into another vendor three sites up from this vendor and guess what, this guy had the whole glovebox lid with the clock and the plastic insert and the clock was perfect and had the original wires. I bouth this for $100. If you are not in a big hurry than wait but if ou want it NOW then pay the price. A clock does not help with judging it can only hurt if there is something wrong with it. If this is the last thing that you need then go get it since you can see it now. You have to make the decision to buy it or not. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Just replace it its not worth the effort to test. If by replacing the condenser then it was a bad condenser. Rich Hartung

There is anold trick in which you can use some of the old wooden clip on clothes pins on the fuel line. Clip several of this on the line and I have heard the this helps. Go to a dollar store and pick up a few and give it a try. Let us know if it works for you. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The electric sisson choke is triggered by the electrical wire that runs from the starter. An electric current moves the arm that moves the control rod that closes the choke buttefly. The choke is sitting on the top of the manifold ans has a bimeatalic plate that as the manifold gets hotter the plate then releases. the the choke and it comes back to the normal open position The sisson automatic choke will always be triggered when you start the car. even in the summer but the bimetallic strip on the bottom of the choke is what really control how much the choke will operate. I do have the instruction sheet for these chokes and can sell you the choke manual. I have this choke on my 39 Desoto Sometime you will find on the Ebay 12volt version of the sisson choke, yes 12v I have seen these several times Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Or you can use some heat shrink plastic. Slide the heat shrink on the cloth wire then strip the end so you have bare wire then sodder the wire to the terminal. When not hot then slide the heat shrink over the end of the terminal barrel end then heat with a hair dryer and not you have a factory looking terminal end. In the old days they used a piece of rubber the correct size of the terminal. rich hartung