47 dodge 1.5 ton

I currently have 5.625 gears and 7.50 x 20’s(not available anymore). The truck does well empty, loaded is another story. I am in 2nd more than I wish on many of our hills around Gettysburg Pa. I can pull those same hills in my ‘06 3500 5.9 Cummins in 6th if that gives a comparison with about the same weight. I am seriously thinking about 7.00’s and swapping to a 2speed rear 5.83 in high range. Don’t think I’d consider 8.25’s unless you have some gears below 6.xx.

Nice information to read. I’d really like to know if the 265 truck motor was changed (cam, compression,head) over the 119hp motor when the dual carb/exhaust was an option for the 136hp. Also question if the torque showed improvement at the low rpm range? From this example, possibly not?

Thanks for sharing, only a dream to drive that truck! Cant be many left in that condition! Do you know what motor and rear gears it has?

As I am recovering from a stroke a week ago yesterday, I was so fortunate to have this frequently used site button on my phone. Monday when I went to the shop for the 1st time, it was very confusing what the old truck, tractors, some of my guns that I must have used resently we’re doing there and where they came from. I was able to use my phone and help identify the truck first. As I read through here yesterday, I was able to learn that I have a 1947 dodge truck. I know my grammar and spelling are bad because this phone underlines most of these words. Thank you for managing this site. Kevin

Well, I am told it does drive, looks like a 15-20 MPH special. Suppose to be a ‘31 Dodge, not sure what though? I was thinking about a UF maybe 1 1/2 ton? Seems to have a lot of extra lights added.

Ok, ran across this old tow truck or lift truck today and trying to decide if this is something I should have? The owner is not really sure about keeping it and doesn’t know much about it as it came in a deal with another truck that he wanted. Thinking about making an offer but don’t know where to start?

When and what was power steering used on first in the mopar line?

Look those rod bolt heads over good for proper clearance. I believe my bolts were ground a little, different than the 237/251 engines.

All what a turbo can do. 30 years ago, my brother designed and built a 225 slant six turbo for his 68 barracuda. I laughed at him most of time he was setting up that contraction and one day we were at the track paired to my slighty warm 340 4spd demon. I caught a better light and he finished 1st with a 13.10 to my 13.15 et. I had a nice lead at 60ft and he got me by the time I shifted to 3rd. I then had respect for the turbo. Although, does not have that flathead sound?

Just bought a new grand Cherokee (2) months ago with a V6, wish this would have been an option. The V6 is peppy, but has been back twice so far, not sure it will be welcome here much longer. I really liked the 4.0l engine, wonder why they wouldn’t have built off that? “New Hurricane I-6 Now Available as HurriCrate Crate Engines Capable of 1,000 HP” Now That’s Dreamy!!

Patients, lots of patients! Yes, there are nuts but most likely froze bolt dia/manifold inner dia. If you have already tried heat followed with oil, recommend a shot of stick weld to a face surface of the bolt. The heat/cooling generally breaks bolts free. I now have an induction heater that works miracle’s! A stick welder will work nicely if you have access to the bolt.

After you verify there is no vacuum leak, for shifting technique—recommend keeping a load on the drive train for several seconds before lifting off the accelerator. Welcome to the forum and we love pictures!!

Those are great numbers! Might even get a little more once you run it some. The motor I started with had a high of about 70psi on (1) cylinder, (2) with “0” and 35-50psi on the remaining (3)! First start was using the hand crank and ran pretty smooth with just (1) dead miss. 2nd start was using the starter and I had a fire coming back through an intake valve, never had that experience before but learned that would be a common occurrence until the valves were free. Once running for a year, got 90psi on all cylinders. Have another one that had never been open, 125-130psi on all (6). So we know some of these engines will produce good numbers. I am @ 375ft above sea level.

Interesting idea, I have a 2006 3500 5.9 ram with a vacuum pump I believe ( although I really haven’t worked on it)?? That would provide low rpm vacuum I would think. Just some input, I have 12v electric wipers on my 47, not something I would recommend installing. They are weak at best and you need the windshield wet.

Just wanted to add as you know the dangers of an open flame. I recently bought an induction heater for removing nuts frozen to studs. If you can barrow one or purchase, they really are a nice tool to create heat without a flame. I would have used this back then but didn’t know such a tool existed that could be controlled in small areas.

I used a small (hand held) propane torch and heated up enough to burn the oil off, then when cool, squirted some paint thinner followed with alcohol, then heat again. When finished, flushed with MM oil and another oil change. I had the inner fender, tire and manifold off as there was not enough access to get #4 on my truck.

I had the same issue and addressed with sodder. I’m not sure I will call it the best method, but that was my idea at the time. Seems to be working so far.

Don’t know anything about the WC model trucks but I would check availability of the drums before doing any machining as this may influence your decision some.

My daydreaming of that truck would be a 230 w/light cam, milled head, (2) carbs and dual exhaust, might even buy an O/D to add behind the transmission. Very nice truck, would be welcome in my garage with the flathead any day!

You will most likely loose things like the clutch, brake peddles, & floor starter. Some of things to me, make it unique to a vintage dodge truck. More power is really cool on the drag strip, but when folks look in the cab, they most likely will see a street rodded old truck with an automatic trans floor shifter. You can do a few things to modify the flathead, still will never be a 440. I personally love original or time period correct mods. just my opinion and it’s your truck! Best, Kevin

I ran into similar issues when looking at upgrading to a 5 speed transmissions. I noted that the 48 5 speed housing was also drilled for the older style top covers. Winter project will be rebuilding the water logged 39 top cover and putting on a 48 trans case. I’m not sure about the 4 speeds, but would bet they are. I have a ‘48 or 49” chassis here with a 4speed hooked to a 25” motor, maybe I’ll take a peek and see what’s there. My biggest issue is the location of my crossmember as the 5 speed is longer, that may be something for you to check if considering the 4 speed which would be my choice.

He was most likely verifying in his mind that the crank was not the issue.

We had a ‘63 2 ton that looked a lot like that. Called it the “green bomb”, was driving that thing around the farm at 7 years old, moving round bales. Fond memories! Thanks for sharing

Need to go back and think 50’s way of life. My grand mother use to talk about painting the model A in an hour with a paint brush, black was the color of choice! From the stories I understood, she did it a couple of times. I think what you have looks period correct. Younger brother of mine just put 32k in paint only (no body work) on a mopar and now it will never see a road. Unless you compare the dollars and hours spent in paint job, would be hard to compare quality. I think they put 10 coats of clear on that car, good luck doing any touch up.

So I am going to give an example of old things falling by the way side. I am an avid sporting clay shooter and when I started in the early 90’s, the only thought to be competitive shotguns for the sport were the newest models over/unders. Being my father was an enthusiast of the LC Smith side by sides, I had a few to take to the sporting clay ranges. My first few times, I was told to take them home as they were ~100 years old and could be unsafe. Well, I listened to those folks and bought some high end late models over/unders. My father was not happy as he felt they were still quality, competitive guns and had a place in the world to be enjoyed. At the time, those guns could be had for a few hundred dollars and a sixteen gauge was worthless as all ammo dried up. 20 years ago my father as one of the charter members, formed the LC Smith Collectors Association and he represented the shooting side. The clubs’ goal was to educate and promote those guns. It started with about 6 members across the USA and now has over 1000 members. There are more competitive events held through the year in a local area than a man can attend and prices have shot up some 400% plus on the higher graded guns. A 16 gauge now is worth approximately 30% more than a 12 because of the lower production numbers. I am only giving this as an example stating that each one of us using this forum control the love of the hobby for the next generation. Sometimes we just need to think outside of the box a little, for instance; maybe include something on upcoming events that provides $$ toward college scholarships. This will grab the younger generation and some parents as well because it is something that can be done together. Just my thoughts for this morning—- Kevin