47 dodge 1.5 ton

I wanted to point out that this is a time where car clubs are important. If the vintage era cars aren’t at shows like this, there will be less the following years as support goes down.

Mopar Carlisle focuses on muscle cars. It is a great all around mopar show as well. There will be very few 30,40, and 50 cars, parts even less. You will see some really cool mopars though.

I have a virgin motor in the shop and the head is off. If I get a chance to clean the carbon off the pistons, I’ll see what it measures. The compression was within 5 psi on all six, will be a good candidate to compare. Not sure if your caliper depth rod has a flat end, but maybe measure from the top of the scale to piston top if it does. This would give you a flat surface by holding against the scale. The deviation of different holes is the only goal.

Bryan, Advise using depth mics or an indicator over the digital calipers for repeatability reasons. Old school method of measuring is a 4:1 rule for accuracy, depending on user technique of your calipers, you may see .005” variables. Just a suggestion to help aid your results.

Just to ease your mind, when you installed the caps, did you have to draw them in? Secondly, your machine shop would have noted any excessive run-out on any required machine work to that crank.

Loren’s comments on stroke are correct after regrinding crank. There are many variables that can offset each piston (and tilt). I would think one not discussed is the true position of the pin hole to the outside diameter and ring grooves of the piston that results in one side being proud or effectively “tilt”. This is what the break in period is for during first fire up. As mentioned by sniper, blue printing an engine is done by professional racers and very costly to hold those tighter tolerances. When I was in school learning the machine trade, we had a project to complete, a V4 cylinder engine. starting point was a rough cast block only. We made the crank, cam, heads, pistons, sleeves, valves, ect…. After each engine in the class was completed, they were graded. All 25 engines ran for a 4 hour min. and they were graded on the tolerances achieved. I also remember about a 4K rpm difference between the examples, though hp was not tested. Some had different sounds, some ran smoother and all had specific characteristics for each example. One of the extra credit points was to install a defective part that would still work for the application with an explanation! If your engine is free turning, still has enough piston to head clearance, think you will be fine and you don’t have a bent crank?.

I guess the question is “looks” right. Mine is 8’ width and some would say it looks to wide. I personally think the width the law allows is what my goal would be if you use the truck. My 2006 3500 is a few inches short of 8’ and I would prefer it to be the 8’6 width.

I have both B&B’s choked, fast idle set for rear carb only, Only disadvantage is both must be open fully I guess. After reading these post, I may disconnect the front and give it a try.

Be very careful when reviewing “cast iron” material. Only basic ASTM requirement is tensile strength from CL25-40. Every foundry has their own recipe for a pour. Hardness is not a requirement on gray iron grades. Ductile has more requirements, is an upgrade in certain applications but again, I have reviewed large ranges in properties as well from different foundries.

Those rears are really a nice pattern, good bite and low noise. I did some calling around today, wish I could find something around 35” dia. I use to drive a local Ice route about 25 years ago and one of the small box trucks had low profile radials (don’t know the rim size though). I think anyone that plans to keep these old trucks going will be going this route very soon. I couldn’t even locate the 8.25R’s anywhere. Looks great, just keep us posted on pros and con’s. Thank you, Kevin

If clutch disengagement correct and tranny are the same, I would guess the transmission alignment could be a strong factor.

Lot’s of terrific detail on your truck, paint quality is outstanding. Thanks for posting! Kevin

That’s kind of what my thoughts were. Let us know how they feel on the road, I agree — maybe a little harder to steer but most of the steering is done when in motion.

Think that will ride very well, radials really made a difference on trucks IMO. If you get a chance, can you lay a straight edge across the face and get a measurement to the rim bead or tire sidewall?

What is the offset on the ones you had made? Appear maybe an inch different?

After reading these post I guess the general idea that lugging an engine if when it’s flat and can’t pull any in that gear, pinging, running it hot. I have always liked any inline 6 cylinder due to the low rpm torque. Mopars in the seventies were common to have high ratio rear gears(2.76-3.23’s) and overdrive to boot. That combo provides a real dog for power at 45mph. Remember, those slant 6 taxis ran forever with steep gears. I just wanted some clarification to what is actually considered lugging.

My grandfather would give a little hand throttle, set choke, and whip by hand in the cold winter when the 6v was low to keep from wasting the battery. Lived in Baltimore, Md— truck was parked in a rented garage a few blocks from his house. He worked out of it and always said it never held him a days labor. That’s one of the things I remember him saying the most about his 46 dodge pickup.

Good for warming a cold engine up a little or the PTO if the tranny has it.

Not an answer to your question for a dash layout. I bought a very nice kit from “The Brillman Company” if you are looking for the original look. I have not installed it yet but appears pretty straight forward.

And it’s still a stick! Well done.

Think I would call your local spring shop and ask the question for professional advice. First thought is the bottom ones but that may point load more and cause damage. I have at least (2) shops that have provided good service over the years if you need references.

The welting only goes on the front section of the fender up to where there is an angle. The rubber fits up to the back of the hood bottom.

Very cool indeed!

Be best to find another 265 for spare parts IMO. I have one located about 5 hours from me for peanuts but haven’t went down to retrieve it as the owner has no outside communications so it’s a tough deal. This one doesn’t run so it’s a gamble if the rods are any good and I don’t really need another one.

The connecting rods for the 265 are hard to come by. May want to look at re-machining 237 rods offset. I was looking at this in a pinch but did need to move forward.