47 dodge 1.5 ton

This is a picture of the type of reamer recommended (larger version), locates by a tapered collet/nut with extension rod to reach the needed locating bore.

If cars are different than trucks, then below does not apply. Trucks have bearings in upper & lower supports , pin close to size in axle spindle. Do you still have a press fit on the OD of the bearing? Mine and others that I have done, bearings are pressed in the supports, then ream to fit pin. Alignment to upper and lower support is critical therefore there is a special adjustable reamer that locates on the opposite bore after the bearings are pressed in. Unless that hole is egg shaped, should not have to ream the support as mentioned before. You would then need an oversized bearing to obtain press. If no interference, the brg will spin in the support hole.

Make sure you get a reamer that locates in the adjacent pin to get a good job. Not bad to do, you will need a intra mic or telescopic gauge and OD mic to get a measurement. Factory calls for an interference fit .0005” for my truck, might be the same for you. I made mine +.0002” clearance so I could shim correctly.

PA and Maryland does, but has restrictions. For a truck— would be considered “antique” to use them and does not allow hauling of anything. This ties in with the insurance as well and would not be covered if something was in the bed and there was an accident. I believe 1 ton trucks and over is where there becomes issues. Just check your local state laws very well. They are definitely “cool”!

I just ordered parts last week and received them on Monday. Very good to deal with. Kevin

I have not, had to work late so far this week. I may give them a try, don’t see anything on DCM’s page though. Plan to modernize this a few years if possible as will be easier for the next time it needs addressed. I did look at some 60-70’s truck banjo ends from past projects and there are several key characteristics that differ a little. Have to see if I can come up with something safe.

Has anyone worked/replaced the rear brake lines on a w series 1.5 ton or larger? Wonder if the banjo (block) can be used from a B series as Vic’s is no longer in business? I’m going on a limb that they use the same wheel cylinder. As usual, I was doing a small “easy” job by cleaning the tee while replacing the frame line and apparently over torqued the female nut (tee fitting) causing it crack and now have to replace the entire line. In this case, banjo appears to be brazed to the line so I now get to replace that as well (both sides to match, guess they needed replaced anyway). I see the B series are available and take a double flare fitting.

As to getting rid of the old gas— I set 4 buckets outside for a few weeks and covered when calling for rain. Enough evaporated to put in (1) bucket that I kept for cleaning parts. Recommend if you can buy a new tank, go that route. I had poor luck with having the tank coated. Ended with red fuel and goo inside the carbs then still buy a new tank. I’m sure some do better work than others, but not a very accessible area to ensure good quality workmanship.

Had to read this twice to get your brother’s assessment—-lol. Alfalfa fields are ones pride where I come from, without truck tracks!! Got a nice laugh with that. Nice truck though!

Sniper, Any way you can get a scan on an “un-touched” Edgy head chamber? Could save the file on here for future reference possibly?

I have measured (4) 25” engines, all were .375” lift.

I like those trucks! Should add to the pictures thread.

PA requires a physical inspection of the VI plate. Can be police or certified garage I believe if a truck to get weight rating (if unknown)Title company actually came to house after garage gave it a weight before I was able to drive it. My ID tag is barely legible.

You mentioned something I’d never really give consideration that may/not have effect. I have only been using 89 octane fuel through it with I believe is 5% ethanol. Mainly because that’s what I use in my old tractors for consistency purposes (in my mind only). I know something that only has ~6.1 compression shouldn’t require that. What are others using?

Ok— found a dwell meter at the farm that looks like it hasn’t been used since the 70’s. Next is to figure out how to use it and measure some base line values. Hoping I can get some free time to work on it over the weekend. My gut feeling is it’s not getting enough fuel at that moment because adding fuel and having the idle rich definitely is better. Still scratching my head on setting up a timing light meter in the cab, vacuum meter is no problem. From Dodgeb4ya’s comment, I may look at the distributor I removed when I first got the truck running without the advance(thought I was upgrading) and I don’t really know for certain mine is a truck model(I need to get the number and do some searching) I do now have an assortment to choose from. I am far from an expert but do feel I’m making improvement, took me a little bit to be able to pull off the spot a few years ago. I do appreciate all thoughts.

Yes— perfect! Mine has a longer hex, that one shows to be turned but guessing the same. Thank you. Back to the 4” carb setting. I found the closer to 2”, the worse the stumbling. I started with the plates closed, guessing they are open a hair while tuning though. I would be interested it what others have the idle vacuum reading set at with duals.

Plugs are set at .028” with feeler gauge but have tried more open and closed. The vacuum advance has a approx 1 1/2” length hex that the line is connected to. You mentioned this is adjustable? I’ll have to look at the numbers later tonight but I wasn’t aware of that. The manifold port is centered on the crossover tube, I would guess the reading would be higher if inline to each carb. I have that hooked to the brake booster but maybe can tee off? I would think that would cause a tremendous advance at low rpm though? How do they plumb/control that amount?

Thanks for these responses, going try and fill in some questions; engine is a stock 236, compression 90-95 psi all cylinders, factory dual manifold with factory equalizer tube, matching truck Carter b&b, stock idle jets, opened main jets .004”, accelerator shooting full on both through plate, currently middle position accelerator pump setting. Currently 3 1/4 psi fuel pressure but have tried 2 3/4-4 psi, gauge installed in system near carbs after regulator with new electric pump, manual pump removed from system. I don’t see much change in psi free reving engine. New tank and 5/16” lines up to carbs. Exhaust- Langdon cast iron Headers, (2) 2 1/4” x 4 ft pipes w/ glass packs. Ignition- 12v alt, new MSD coil, current distributor is from I believe a truck 251 with vacuum advance( I will check number) seems to move free, without much wear. Currently have points (feeler gauge set) may try pertronix or other recommendations for electronic? Holds position with hand vacuum pump. I only have (1) carb hooked to vacuum advance. I am reading 2 degrees advance at low idle. Manifold port vacuum measures 17” steady at low idle, carb ported measure 4” steady on both carbs checked individually, not tied together. I have not checked vacuum at set upper rpm’s but runs smooth. I do not have a tach hooked up but may add something temporary. I Have (2) factory oil bath air cleaners that suck oil when filled to line. Runs leaner when they are off so settings are with them on. Drivability is ok when accelerating from anything above idle. Stumbling when moving at idle, then hitting throttle, sometimes popping if I hit it too hard. I know that I have not answered all questions but will shortly.

I am trying to determine if I’m pulling enough vacuum for the timing advance to work properly on a dual carb set-up I have (really just question if it’s fast enough). I am still getting a slight stumble just off slow idle. After alot of tinkering, I believe carbs are where they need to be ( very smooth in all rpm ranges)I’m only using the ported vacuum of (1) carb and don’t believe this is enough when the accelerating from idle. Seems to be good accelerating above idle rpm’s although I still expect a little more improvement. With idle set faster, it’s useable.

No— Just a “drive train” power load. Seems to work better with power and then releasing power for the rear to engage smoothly. Down shifting going down hill is very difficult to keep from getting into a free wheel situation. I try down shifting when I have a chance for any upgrade (causing a little load on the drive train) before needing to switch rear to low range. Around here, you really need to know the roads or it may not end well. I hope that’s clear enough to understand.

So I use loctite on rod bolts and have used it on mains as well although have also used a very light coating of the orange copper gasket sealer on the main bolt threads threads lately. Both provide lubricant during assembly (the bolts draw down tighter with the same torque setting on your wrench when compared to dry putting less stress on the bolts themselves). This was our practice on engines that turned high rpm’s and bolts were torqued well above standard recommended ranges in service manuals. I personally like the idea so have continued to do so on all engines and have had good success. Don’t think it’s necessary on a 4K rpm engine though. So on the bolt torque subject. My training provided by fastener suppliers only recommend bolts to be used at full torque(which is based on shear point design) 1 time! There has been many discussions on the subject from our vendor’s & engineering that provide theory’s supporting this as each time a bolt it torqued, it is weekend and loss of thread life. This is why we recommend to stay under that threshold until final assembly. Again— I have seen bolts reused without an issue many times. I would recommend to do a very thorough inspection and confirm there are no pits from rust at a minimum. Myself— cost of bolts, replace. Hope this may be useful down the road!! Kevin

I wanted to apologize after looking back over my replies for being brash. This is an educational forum for those working through projects. I have a fair amount of experience machining and building engines(apprentice in my younger days becoming a machinist). We built a lot of hi-preformace, diesel, & stock rebuilds. I have almost no experience with flat head Chryslers but the machining practices are the same in most cases. When it comes to actually building, many have their own techniques, some better than others. Fortunately, now we have the internet to enhance the communication among folks and learn from others mistakes. One of those is the use of thread adhesive such as “locktite”. I personally swear by it as this allows better torque when drawing down fasteners (it provides lubricant). At the same time I would not recommend the use of Wd-40 on main or rod bearings because it actually has cleaner qualities (again, personal preference). In any case, you are making great progress during your build and better doing as much yourself. Most places are suffering from experience or trying to make as much as possible causing a lot of corner cutting! Best of luck, Kevin

PM me— I may be able to help you out.

Should have been dry and measurement taken at near 90% of full torque. They don’t do 100% due to stretching bolts. If oil spots— maybe ok, but you have more clearance than measured.

I would be far more concerned about the surface finish if as rough that picture shows. Should have been ground to size. Appears to have been turned(with the tool seat after the insert failed)and then emory polished. They knew they were running out of material to hold tolerance and quit polishing. The surface finish will eventually seat if it doesn’t gawd, adding a much undesired bearing clearance. I know you said they only polished- what did it look like prior?