47 dodge 1.5 ton

Duplicate— deleted

Yes, I am talking about the hoses, lines are 5/16”. These are the front (2) and the (1) on the rear. I believe the rear is more of an issue.

I have not found a source for the original size. All replacement “break lines hoses” seems to only be available in an 1/8”. I have been told that stepping down from 5/16” to 1/8” at the frame hoses is not an issue because of the low volume of fluid moving through the lines. I’m having my doubts. Wondering if others have experienced similar issues and if they used smaller wheel cylinders?

I need some help from the experts here on brake line/cylinder compatibility. I am having issues with my brakes sticking and not releasing quick enough. I have all new wheel cylinders, shoes, cleaned all components very well and copper anti-seize all moving parts. My replacement hoses have an ID that measures 1/8” dot approved, original measures .190” and fluid passed through all. (Failed Dot inspection due to cracks). I did not change the bore size of the wheel cylinders. I could not locate new springs, but seemed like they had a lot of pressure. Master cylinder seemed fine before and seems to prime ok. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks, Kevin

Mine goes through grille, lower radiator tank and into the crank that has a lug for the “crank”. I used it a lot when I first bought the truck for trouble shooting or after it sits for awhile. Very handy IMO

Don’t be frustrated, have been in engines with different sized pistons(not uncommon as you may think). Folks didn’t spend more than needed on repairs as money was hard to come by.

Why was it taken to another machine shop? Did you have an issue?

Lol— well—— on trips like that, I give my father a blank check to pick up for me. I really didn’t want to know, just that it would be quality. ?

I had mine sleeved in bronze by Whitepost in Va. should never have an issue again as they warrant their work, remember these things sit more than daily drivers. There are several companies that sleeve and I would view as an upgrade to a new one. Just my thoughts.

That is some very educational information. Thank you, Kevin

Tim, I have seen several suggest the cams are made to a different spec on industrial engines. Do you know what the differences are by chance? I compared the lift and duration on a ‘59 265ind vrs a ‘48 237 and both appear the same? I did not check centerline. The reason Im asking, planning to use the IND cam for a regrind. Thank you, Kevin

I’m not sure of the condition of the one you have. If it’s good, I would no way paint it as those are hard to come by. Maybe keep, sell or trade for a paint grade one if that’s your decision. You may change your mind down the road.

May want to ask an electrician for advice on wire type as I don’t know with certainty. More strands may allow to corrode quicker within the outer casing? I would think thinner stands should be cheaper to manufacture and if provide more current, not sure why this difference for industrial/automotive applications? Just a thought…

Recommend drilling those out if you are saving the manifold. Note: The bolt hole side walls are very thin, and brittle. Remember, you don’t need to split for removal, can do those four on a bench.

I have OO copper and it was very hard to bend so you need plenty. I used a small pipe bender and wrapped around the bell housing and to the starter.

My battery is on pass side, under the seat. I know one cable was 4ft, cant remember if the other was longer or shorter. Do remember adding a foot for the longer one. Both cables run to the starter and I barely had any cable to spare. I suggest running a string for a test and add a little.

The 3 ton we have is; 1-2-4-R n 3-5 I’m not sure if that is OD, but it shifts smooth except 1 & 2nd, can’t downshift less than 3rd when moving. I thought that tranny came out of a late 50’s tank truck but can’t remember. I know that I switched it to several trucks and now is behind a LA motor and bell housing.

You should have told me yes—lol. Had a buddy that I stopped to visit about 25 years ago and he was mowing grass for a neighbor. He had been told to check the oil in the mower before starting. When I stopped by, there was a bottle of crisco on the driveway. I said “what are you doing with that”, he replied “had to add oil to the mower”. We have been laughing about it for years.

Yep— that looks different and those stamps are most likely correct.

Your 4th and 5th are throwing me off? I believe those to be reversed unless there is another 5speed in that truck?

Go to the oldest garage in your area, look for the oldest, white haired old man and tell you are having an issue with the 6v started on your old truck. I have had good luck with “The Brillman company” in Virginia.

My point was that I purchased (3) new contacts from different sources, all were manufactured the same being faulty as I believe from the same vendor. They were not stamped USA as called out in (2) listings I purchased from. I was losing voltage, wires were hot, discharged the battery quickly due to a short within the contact. Just a thought if wires are good, battery is good and motor is free turning.

Be sure to check starter contact under button. I have (3) new ones on the bench that are not isolated and grounding out, causing a short under contact. To correct it, I disassembled and repositioned the insulator, moving backward.

Also need to check perpendicularity to faces. The offset dowel only helps “center” the shaft. When we were racing 4spd cars, there were several Lakewood blowproof aftermarket bell housings that we needed to have faces remachined. Off the top of my head, up to .003” was max. When sweeping faces, you must figure indicator sag or you could make a good part a problem. (Adding— if checking in a horizontal position, vertical measurement most likely “not required”.) Without actually verifying what you have and assuming there is no bind and the new pressure plate is working correctly, I would still try a floor stop at just a smidge below “free engagement” needed. Not costly, and would help point in next path forward if failed results.

So I wanted ask you about that oil? Are you really using castor oil or Castrol GTX 20/50? The reason I’m asking because I worked with a few that claimed they used castor oil, I always took that as slang. not trying to start an oil debate though. Thanks, Kevin