DonaldSmith

Is 4-4.5 volts the generator output at idle speed? Generators need rpms to have adequate output. That's the advantage of alternators. They have good output even at idle speeds.

My son works on computer systems for a company that does invenory control. They back up very frequently. Some employee opened malware, thinking it was from someone within the company, and the compnay was faced with a ransom demand. My son merely restored the most recent back-up and deleted the data with the embedded malware, avoiding paying ransom. Further, he instituted a way of determining whether a message was truly coming from someone within the company or from the outside. Smart boy.

Some jurisdictions prohibited entering or exiting a car from the traffic side. The driver had to slide over the seat to or from the passenger door. So the key lock was on the passenger side.

It seems that a PO had a modern ignition lock in my 47 DeSoto, which I replaced with a '40s lock. You could wire a modern lock to turn the key all the way clockwise to start the engine, and/or use the starter button.

$1.80? How much is that in Canadian? (Just kidding. Canadian nickels would work just fine.)

Is the device in question mounted on the cowl? The voltage regulator is usually on the inner left fender. This device looks like my NOS headlight relay, which I mounted on the cowl, but a bit higher. Two wires from the dimmer switch under the floor, some power wires, and a high beam and low beam wire.

Get an inverter with ample amperage rating, to power a 12 V pump from a 6 V system.

Oh, I thought that the Energizer Bunney was quitting his job to start a new line of cosmetics. According to the internet, that's what all the stars are doing. But It's a scam. To get your free sample, you pay shipping and handling with your credit card, and agree to the small print. Gotchya! Soon you get unwanted products delivered and your charge account dinged accordingly. Nothing is free.

Never had the lead spring wrappings. Springs squeaked. Disassembled and greased the springs; squeaks came back. Then I bought spring liners from one of the on-line speed shops. Photo shows the liners in place as I was adding lowering blocks.

The basics is the connection of the cables to the battery. Positive ground, cable from (+) post to engine block. Negative ground, cable from (-) post to block. The wiring loom doesn't know the difference. Certain polarity-sensitive accessories, like the radio, will know. The coil shoild have the polarity as marked. This may be an oversimplification, but it's the place to start.

Adding another alternator would require some pulley and belt work, just as adding power steering or air conditioning. It could be done, and has been done. Electrically, I don't see a problem with a separate 12-volt system. But maybe could use a 6-volt to 12-volt inverter to power the electronics, if they do not draw too much current. Remember that the 6-volt side would require more than double the amperage of the 12-volt side, so you would need adequate wiring and fuse or breaker. I had a 12-volt pusher fan and a jury-rigged second battery to get the 12 volts. I replaced the pusher fan with a 6-volt unit, and deleted the second battery. Then I added an inverter for cellphones, GPS devices, etc. So far, so good.

The diagram does not show power to the dimmer switch. (Maybe it's understood; existing power circuit.)

I still have the bottle of lead substitute that I bought 15 years ago when I first got my 47 DeSoto. (Newby exuberance - buy whatever the car might need.) Then I read on this forum that the valve seats are hardened, and these engines don't need Ethyl gas, or a lead substitute.

Deep in our family history is the tale of the time our father ran out of gas in his 47 DeSoto Suburban full of kids. We were traveling at night, and the nearest gas station was closed. My dad borrowed a small, enameled potty chair, and headed to the station. He returned with the potful of the necessary essence to get the car running. Then he proceeded to the station, and since the pump was left on, he filled the tank. Being an honest man, he slipped the dollar and change under the door of the station.

You guys are scaring me. I put a Pertronix system in my 47 DeSoto; so far, so good. But any moment, when we're far from home... When I installed the Pertronix system, I added a junction block to the inside fender, near the distributor, and I drew diagrams of how to connect the points-type ignition vs. the Pertronix system. Fine, but I dread having to redo the everything along the side of the road, including setting the timing. Maybe I'll just buy an extra Pertronix Ignitor.

Maybe you would want to cushion the wall, so you can push the car all the way against the wall.

It looks like all the steering wheels are on the left. Don't stick out your arm if you are close to the curb. (kerb?) Are these all, or most of them, imports from the States? (States: Canadian shorthand for the United States of America. What do the Brits call the USA, politely, of course?)

Old Bob Hope joke, or so I was told. He asks one of the women on the tour to put her hand in his pocket. She says, "Oh, I'd feel crazy." He says, "Put your hand in further (farther?*) and you'll feel nuts". Maybe we all need our own corner. *Farther, a matter of distance; further, a matter of degree. Take your pick.

Hey, that Dodge is a Town Sedan, of which we have spoken recently.

I've heard of giving up one's life for a friend, but nuts? That's just nuts. Andy, show me the corner; I have to go there.

So that's why I can't turn my engine by pulling on the fan blades, even with the plugs out! To move the engine to top dead center, I had to remove the screen from the bell housing and put a pry bar to the flywheel teeth.

I looked in the "electrical" section of the shop manual for my DeSoto, but didn't find a step-by-step procedure for "generator not charging". Instead it talks of a generator bench test, and various tests for the regulator. Some experts will have to chime in here.

Has your ammeter been working? Headlignts on, needle goes negative. Assuming the motor is running above idle, the generating system should start to move the needle back to neutral. If the battery is not fully charged, and the headlights are off, the needle should show positive, until the battery is more fully charged.

Part of your "H" pattern is working. Second Gear is Up, and Third Gear is Down. That part of the linkage is working. That's the control rod that works the forward lever at the transmission. You pull the gearshift toward you, and you think you should get Reverse at Up and First Gear at Down. But the linkage is not transferring that back-and-forth motion to the transmission. Something from your motor mount work or rubber bushing work may have thrown the selector rod and linkage enough out of adjustment. Loosen or disconnect the selector rod at the steering column, and manually push the rod so that the "C" shaped lever at the transmission is as far back as it goes, engaging Reverse or First. How far off is the upper end of the rod from the rest of the linkage? Is it possible that the selector rod got bent, which would shorten it? Has the location of the transmission to the steering column changed? In cases like this, the solutions are elusive, but finally found to be something simple. Good Luck. (I just noticed something in the instructions for adjusting the selector rod: The transmission should be in neutral, while taking the slack out of the selector rod. At the transmission, check that the "C"shaped lever is truly in the neutral position. Just one more thing to check .)

Ground the coil separately? But wait! Remember, the Pertronix circuit is backwards from the usual breaker-point circuit. Assuming you still have positive ground wiring: The hot wire from the ignition goes to the (-) post of the coil. The coil is grounded from its (+) post to the distributor. The points ground the circuit. Points close,. coil energized. Points open, zap.