DonaldSmith

I have the spare distributor parts, and wiring diagram, in a box. Maybe I should get an entire distributor, so that I'm not doing an intricate transplant at the side of the road. Maybe I'll put a Pertronix in the spare distributor; what are the chances of two of them going bad? As the adolescent said, what could possibly go wrong? Food for thought; grist for the pessimistic.

I installed the Pertronix 2563LSP6 ignitor, and the 40011 Flame Thrower coil, both from Amazon. Because the semi-automatic "Tip-toe" transmission briefly shorts the ignition circuit to accomplish the upshift, Pertronix suggested that I put a 7-ohm, 5-watt resister in a new circuit from the negative post of the coil to the PRI post of the transmission relay. The 7-ohm was more important than the 5-watt. From Mouser Electronics I bought a resistor, 71-RH10-7.0, RH107R000FC02, for about three bucks, plus shipping. The Pertronix is wired differently from the usual breaker-type distributor, per the Pertronix instructions. For a 6-volt positive system, power through the ignition switch goes to the ignitor in the distributor (black wire). The black-grey wire from the ignitor goes to the (-) post of the coil. The (+) post of the coil connects directly to ground. And then the resistor connects from the (-) post of the coil to the PRI post of the transmission relay. Somewhere I have a posting showing the details of the installation.

Update from 3013: After Pertronix ignition and professionally rebuilt carburetor, no noticeable skips. Running well. Some people swear by the standard, stock ignition; others swear at it. Then, some people's Pertronix suddenly goes kaput. Ya pays ya money and ya takes ya chances.

They look like mostly Mopar cars, but there's a Packard in the second line from the left, with divided, wraparound rear window, and scoops on the rear fender. ... and maybe a Hudson sedan in the second row from the right, with rear quarter windows.

So the wire got in the spark plug hole, migrated across the valves to the cylinder, where it messed up the piston? I can imagine that happening. Someone bend a valve from a piece of junk getting in the plug hole. So plug your plug holes, guys. I presume the damage is on the side of the piston by the valves. Or was the head off when the wire broke loose? What is the condition of the cylinder wall?

I looked into electric power steering, but the instructions said to keep the unit dry and away from heat, which means not under the hood, where there would be space for it. If I mounted the unit under the dashboard, I would have to rework, reroute, get rid of, the shifting lever shaft. I wound up with a power steering gearbox which replaced the manual box, after much cobbling and trial-and-error. The early 50s Mopar power steering was built into the steering shaft. I don't know if a shaft like that would fit without major modification. (Some of the guys go to rack-and-pinion steering, which is available with power assist. The steering shaft would then connect to the r&p with U-joints and extensions. Still a lot of work.)

Sometimes I'll make a sling for something like a generator, so that I can support the generator with one hand while inserting the bolts at the ends. A sling for a battery takes two hands, but it's just a matter of setting the battery on the tray. (I used to have a strap that grabbed the battery by the posts. What ever happened to it? Modern batteries have built-in handles. What won't they think of next!)

My compact jack hides behind the spare, snuggled up to a block of wood I added. (That's the interior of my DeSoto Suburban with the Bakelite fender llners.) I made up instructions for using the jack with blocks, to raise the corners of the car. (The blocks hide under the wood floor in a terrycloth bag.)

Kaiser Darrin

I remember riding in my dad's DeSoto at night. The illuminated instrument panel was reflected in each side window, sloping up an angle, from my viewpoint as a kid It was a magical time.

Those '53 and '54 Plymouth grilles look like someone holding a pencil or pen across his mouth, or someone with his lower lip behind his top teeth. Just my impression. At least it's not an Edsel. I'll go back to my corner now, and stare at the wall. Let me know when I can come out.

5. Reconnect battery.

So, to check this step-up piston, take the top off the carburetor and push down on the middle part of that brass strap. The piston and spring should move down freely. The funky screw will stay in place. If the piston doesn't move down freely, or won't return up by spring power, the piston needs cleaning, or the little cylinder in the carb body needs to be refinished. I remember using a pencil with fine sandpaper taped on, to clean the walls of the cylinder. You might want the carb off the engine for this, to thoroughly clean out any sanding debris.

Step-up piston, between the venturi and the float: The step-up piston parts: There was a post some time ago about the aluminum body of the carburetor corroding and inhibing the free travel of this piston. Check it from time to time.

My policy does not cover drivers under age 25, or drivers without at least ten years of driving experience. It seems that kids these days are not so anxious to get their licences at 16, as we were. Too many electronic distractions. Not only that, Michigan has a process for licencing the kids, with requirements to log hours of driving (with an adult) before taking various stages of additional drivers ed. Too many young drivers kids getting in accidents. Wisdom develops long after size and strength.

My car runs better when the car is washed and the windshield washer bottle is full.

The steering wheel in post #52 is on the right side of the car. I know that it seems wrong...

I still have some effects from my TIA. I might have to stop talking and wait for the next word to come. Sometimes I have to throw in synonyms as "place keepers" until the fifty dollar word pops into my mind. Or I might misstate the words. No political intent, but recently I spoke of "classical" materials rather than "classified" materials. I described vintage cars as being "erotic" rather than exotic".

I checked for hot spots on the back of my head, but the hair keeps the sun off. The top of the head is another matter. Oh, the engine head!

I just don't want a double throw. (That's it; it's late. I can't think of any more puns.)

Can we switch the topic?

46: front fenders flaired into the front doors. Otherwese just trim and badging.

For my electric fuel pump, i got a double pole throw switch from McMaster-Carr that was momentary in one position, off at the center, and constant at the other position. Hold down for prime, flip up if the mechanical pump fails, and center for off. To keep the pump from running on if the engine quit, as in an accident, I installed an oil pressure switch to govern the constant-on circuit. Engine quits, pump quits.

OK, why is the "Race of Champions" TROG and not TROC?

Quite a bit of sunburn on that DeSoto coupe.