Sniper

Don;t think anyone is new building these parts, which means you get NOS, if you can find them. Bernbaum's can usually help out, though I don;t know if he has housings anymore.

Not so, they aren't matched pairs, so to speak.

Ha, my son needs to build up his guns, mine can do the job lol.

You're going to have to clarify what you mean in regards to why your knuckles need to be replaced. Because something doesn't sound right to me.

Gee I'm thinking about putting p245 in the front to match the Rears

Yeah headlight designs have been proprietary since the '80s. But technology is gone overboard I don't need my headlights to steer. I did put LED headlights on my 51 but it didn't cost nearly as much as they want for the Jag ones. Heck it was less than one refurbished one

Well I put over 2,000 miles on the Jag in the first 2 months of this year. All I have to say is woohoo. I've got two issues to fix on it and then it's time for a tune. One issue is that my windshield washer fluid reservoir would go empty very fast within 3 days and me not even really using it. The other issue is I have a headlight fault on the left front headlight well I guess I'm redundant there saying front headlight lol. So last week, my son and I looked at it and we determined that I need to replace the left headlight, you'll note I did not say front headlight. Very spendy since it's LED. Even the junkyard ones are spendy and no guarantee there. I found a place that sold refurbished ones for about $350 but they're out of stock. So we manually adjusted the vertical setup so that it shines down the road properly but what doesn't work is the Adaptive part where the headlight turns the same direction as your steering wheel. I can live without that for now. The washer issue ended up being the headlight washer on the left side is broken so when you hit the squirters it's supposed to pop out and spray the headlights well what happens is fluid goes down that line you turn the pump off and it's siphons the fluid out of the reservoir until it's empty. So we pulled the line and capped it off with a bolt in a couple of zip ties for now. It's my first car with headlight washers so it's not like I need it. I'll end up seeing how much that's going to cost me for parts and then we'll replace it ourselves. I got a couple of other things I need to address some missing bolts nothing serious. Then it's time for some hot rod parts and pump it up to about 480 horsepower. Sad part is that will be cheaper than replacing the headlight. Assuming I have to buy a new one from Jaguar who seems to be the only people to have one in stock.

I have a pressure gauge hook to a hose that screws onto the Schrader valve on a fuel injection fuel rail. It's only about a foot long so I just use it under the hood to test pressure but if you can simulate the stalling in your driveway you could probably do something similar and watch the pressure gauge to see if your fuel pressure drops off when it stalls. It should not since the pump is electrically driven and not driven by the engine

That's the thing about fuel injected cars if the fuel pump stops working you instantly lose fuel pressure and the engine shuts down there's no Reserve in a bowl like a carburetor has. I've known guys that wired in a test light at the fuel pump connections and ran it to the dash to see if that light stayed on while they were driving and if it's shut off when they had problems that would tell you whether or not electricity was getting to the pump connection. I don't know how feasible that is on your mini band it's been a long time since I fooled around with a minivan

Old school relays like the one in your truck originally don't care about polarity. Newer ones do if they have a diode in them. All's it is is a coil that generates a magnetic field and closes your contacts. The old school relay will generate that magnetic field being fed either way. A later relays with the diode I mentioned have those diodes for noise suppression more than anything else and in your truck there's nothing to worry about if there's noise on the line.

He condenser is not required for the ignition to work. It is there to help her then arcing across the points. You can remove for testing purposes

Yes and the high amp feed for that relay would bypass the amp gauge.

That's 3M weather stripping glue is the real deal however, you need to make sure that you have that rubber exactly where you want it before you touch it down because it will stick right there.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by full charge running through the ammeter. The ammeter is supposed to read the charge going to or coming from the battery and it's virtually instantaneous indication of the status of your charging system. Because if you're driving down the road and it's reading negative you're charging system is not working. I'll voltmeter is somewhat slower to react and usually what happens is you notice darn my headlights are really dim then you look at the ammeter and you're down around 11 volts in which case you better be looking for a place to park. Or you can run that indicator light from your alternator as an instantaneous indication that it's not working.

In the factory setup the only thing the amp gauge indicates is the charge going to or from the battery. If you want it to work like that you have to wire all your loads and the output of the alternator to one and meter stud the other stud goes to the battery. If it reads backwards you need to swap the wires on the studs.

You're looking at the PARTS manual?

The parts manual usually shows that

Yes it is supposed to be there, it's the drain for the housing, Is it engine oil or gear oil? They do smell differently.

Someone is quite the optimist

Did you find were the oil was coming from?

Most like the blower motor resistor is bad, not uncommon. But it could be the switch, a meter can answer that.

Stop leak won't. It'll just let you find the next weakest point, BTDT.

If you have a compression tester you can use the hose from it once you remove the schrader valve

Pretty sure the one on the right is just the rear cover for the cam tunnel, not a coolant passageway. The one on the left is a coolant passageway and you are likely going to have to pull the bell housing to get to it anyway.

Looking good, Lewis