Sniper

All assembled and done

Test fit in a spare block, this is the final exam, lol. Sits flush.

Gotta measure, used the old housing to set the caliper. Measure at several spots since you are using a file.

Chucked up the body in my drill press to resize the housing. 1/2-13 bolt fits fine, that is a 10 inch one, way too long, lol. Used a mill bastard file, sprayed down with soapy water to keep the aluminum from sticking. 150 grit sand paper for final polish, Oh yeah, rubber band on the hold down clips so they don't whack you.

I got it together today, you are correct it works. But that clip is a pain to reinstall. I think your spring idea is a better one. The infamous clip

Pretty sure Bernbaum's sells keyed alike tumblers.

I would not take any modern-day oil recommendations for oil change intervals on our cars. Those recommendations assume you have a quality full flow oil filter something most of us do not have.

I mention the one I got in the thread JB linked. Liked it so much I bought one for my son to bleed his BMW's brakes. only thing better, imo, is having someone else do it for you, lol.

Chief Dan George

I believe that has been covered a few times. But the search function here is iffy, lol I don't think those seals are different than the regular three speed trans.

Only if you get the gauge and bezel kit. You can use whatever gauges you want and buy the bezel ala carte.

Hmm, I will look at it. Still got it all laid out on the workbench. Having lost many a hairpin myself, I was extra careful to make sure it didn't fly away taking it off. Of course, putting it on is another opportunity for it to fly away.

I see your problem, you were on your head when you were installing it, lol. You might find someone that has a spare if you can't fix yours. Or, if you are feeling a bit blingy I submit this option https://boeseengineering.com/product-category/dodge-gauge-panels/plymouth-gauge-panels/1946-1948-plymouth-car-gauge-panels/

I got to thinking I know, lol. Langdon's used to sell an HEI based distributor for our engines. Any one know what application is was based on? I might get into making them if I can sort it out. Thanks

I guess it really depends on your budget and your time frame. Myself I would just put your engine back together and run it as is while I rebuilt the spare. That's essentially what I'm doing

Not a whole heck of a lot of inductance in a straight piece of wire. Many people confused chopped DC with AC they are not the same thing. Alternating current flows back and forth direct current flows One Direction so they behave differently inductors and inductance have very little effect on DC and the signal at your point is chopped DC it is not AC. Personally I don't think there's a big difference where you mount it

You know Loren makes a very good point.

One thing I learned a long time ago when you're installing a manual transmission After a clutch job The easiest way to get things to line up and slide in Is to get that transmission and as far as you can and once it binds up have somebody step on the clutch to release the disc That will allow you to shove the transmission the rest of the way in without any binding. There are two types of car 833's at least in regards to length. The a body one which is shorter and the b-body/ebody ones that are the same length as a truck. The short one is also used by the F body and M body cars. If you happen to come across the ultra rare four-speed C body it's the longer one.

I too live in Texas. And I knew that the engine serial number was what was on my title. So when I bought the spare 230 to build and put in my 51 I asked the lady at the County Tax Assessor's Office what needed to be done because obviously different engine different serial number. So she went back to ask and a little bit later another lady came out turns out she was the County tax assessor herself. She had some paperwork she gave me and part of that paperwork stated that Texas used engine serial numbers on titles on all 55 and older vehicles except Fords. Don't ask me why I don't know. Anyway she also gave me the paperwork to show me the Hoops I need to jump through if I swapped out the engine. I live in a small town and you get that kind of personalized service

If you have an alternator and starter rebuilding shop anywhere nearby they ought to be able to handle that for you. You might have to go to the big city though probably should call First

Oh hey I remembered the term it's called tribal knowledge.

There's a word for that we're knowledge is passed down from generation to generation and nobody knows where it came from or nobody knows why it happened to begin with. But I'll be darned if I can remember what that word is. In any event I suppose there might have been a manufacturer who balanced the drive shaft installed and that mattered and somehow it got applied to all drive shafts in all cars. I have pulled many a drive shaft and replaced them without regards to orientation and had zero problems. But hey you know what it's four bolts unbolt it, flipping around 180 bolted back in see if it makes a difference

Yep that's how my 64 300 got the nickname Beast I had rebuilt the 413 in it and I was installing the engine with the transmission attached. I was working by myself so I'd lower it slide under the car check things out stand back up lower it some more slide under the car etc. Well one time when I stood up the beam of the Hoist smacked me in the back of the melon. rubbed my melon and said I better not do that again. Slid under the car to check clearances stood back up and brained myself again and that's when I got mad cussed out the car called it the Beast. And ever since that was its name.

Actually standard application is to install the lip seal so that it points into the source of pressure that way it is pressed more firmly into the shaft to seal it in the Advent that there is a pressure buildup. So you want both lip seals pointing to the center of the axle housing on either side it doesn't matter and make sure the axle vent is clear

I thought about that, but it'd be about the thickness of notebook paper. Not sure that's hold up? I appreciate that. I picked up the /6 lean burn distributor off Ebay for $30, reman, unused in the box. I might see what I can find. Wow, I lucked out on that one, Wow, I just googled Cardone 30-3693 (what I bought) on Ebay, I lucked out. Reman /6 electronic ignition units (not lean burn) are about $150, though I found one for $75 with no vacuum adance installed. It's crazy, I can buy new /6 distributors for much less than the remans and in the case of the lean burn versions there's really nothing to reman, except maybe the bushings and possibly the pickup, though in the case of the one I have that consisted of sand blasting the pickup. Yep, been a long time since I saw an LA motor in a boneyard too. I might just do that, thanks