Sniper

2011, will it fit? Not without a lot of work, lol. It is not a good donor for a few reasons. Number one being, near as I can figure. they only made about 30 of them world wide. So it's rare. But most important, I'd probably kill myself driving it, lol. I spent the first couple of years of my driving life on a motor cycle. This is the only car I have ever driven that accelerates like one. I dunno, haven't looked at one of those. That 0-60 time is similar to the Supersport's. In any event, I already have a game plan with my Plymouth. Sort of straddling the two era's. A slightly hopped up, fuel injected flat head with touches of modern tech throughout.

You know I've been test driving a Jaguar xjl super sport. It's the one with the 510 Horsepower Supercharged V8 under the hood. I've half fantasized about dropping that drivetrain into the 51 I've got. Oh Lordy what a rocket ship

McMaster-Carr or even Grainger are two places I go for stuff like that.

Interesting. Are you planning of installing power steering? I ask because that ink steering wheel is going to increase effort.

I would suggest you have a speedi-sleeve on hand for the hub, it is most likely badly grooved. A pic of the exploded view you are talking abut might help sort out your questions, but right now I am guessing you are correct. I've never pulled one in the car, just on the engine stand.

The pump application should not have any bearing on the screws coming loose. Some locktite should fix that.

Not sure how relevant this is, but KeithB has some good posts his made when he redid his box.

The early ball and trunnion A833 also came in the long variety, for B and C bodies. Had one in my 64 300. There are basically two lengths of A833. Short, for A, F, M body cars. F and M only ever had the OD variety. Some A body versions used the smaller (A904 style) slip yoke. Most used the larger (A727) style slip yoke. Long, for B.C and trucks, later ones had the dual shifter mount set, truck ones were all OD variety. All used the larger slip yoke. There were a couple of flavors of gears sets, but that's been covered. I have two A833OD's out of trucks on the shelf. Thinking about putting one in my 51, but maybe not with the adapter mentioned.

The stock 6 volt wiper motor in my 51 Plymouth is protected by a 10 amp fuse. If you double the voltage you half the amperage. My biggest concern though is your setup is 6 volt positive ground and your motor wants 12 volt negative ground and unless that motor is isolated from chassis ground odds are you're going to short it out.

Rear mounted shifter means e-body. To the best of my knowledge there are no different length input shaft. They are all the same length. As for your gear ratio concerns before you spend any money just put in what you got test driving to see if you like it or not if you don't then you can think about a gear swap.

Very nice. Looks like East Texas

USN 83-93

Your "missing" lower mounts are not missing, that is stock. In the downloads section I posted the TSB that explains this exact setup.

I just used a plastic putty knife

Well, technically and as I understand it, the oil filter was optional. So "original" in the most literal sense of the word would be no filter. However, it is period correct, lol. I bought a new setup from Omix since I had the sealed setup.

It's 87 here today. But that doesn't matter I drive my car regardless. I have even driven it in the snow LOL

That's because your transmission has a load on it when you're stopped it doesn't have when you're moving. It's kind of like an automatic when you put it in gear it'll twist a little bit. Soon as you step on the clutch you're disconnecting the output of the engine from the input of the transmission and that load goes away and it quit so your transmission is moving

New made motor mounts are a crap shoot. Seen them fail fairly quick. I usually end up going with US made polyurethane mounts, if they are available for the application. If not, there are several companies that will rebuild yours. Might want to see if you can replicate the issue in the garage and inspect.

The comedy is golden

I know some newer brake lines use a bubble flare. Though I don't know if that will work for you but you can get that tool all over the place.

Welcome

Somewhere on this site I have a thread going that lists almost all the seals and gaskets needed unfortunately I'm on my mobile device so I can't really do a search for it right now

Fit? As in bolt up to your block? Most likely, bolt up to your existing exhaust pipe? I dunno.

Poof, he appears, lol. Yeah, the squeaky wheel and all that. I mean no one complaints if all is well, right? Heck, I've complained once or twice, here, about something and it turns out I was wrong, lol. Like the aftermarket new /6 distributor I thought wouldn't work for the swap, turns out someone else here had the same setup and looked closer at it and found out it would. So I forged ahead and he was right.