Sniper

You know a good OBD2 scanner would show you the crank sensor signals. And then you would know if that's what was acting up. But $18 is a heck of a lot cheaper than a good OBD2 scanner

That would be functionally useless unless you change the entire front suspension. In order for a ball joint on the upper control arm to work as intended you would need a ball joint on the lower control arm and a different spindle assembly

Probably because the distributor was in the wrong position 🤣 Joke, son, I say that was a joke.

Hmm, got a call from our fleet manager couple weeks ago. Time to replace the 22 Silverado 1500 4x4 I currently have, over 101,000 miles in less than 2 years. Yes, I know 2022 was three years ago but it took 1.5 years to get the POS because of "covid". It was ordered in Oct 2021, got it May of 23. Getting a Silverado 2500 long bed as the replacement. Not sure if it'll be a 25 or a 26 though All I can say is that the dash on the 1500 has a lot of blue painters tape on the shiny bits because the sun will shine off it into my eyes. The electronics, primarily the display, gets freaky on occasion. Sometimes I have to shut it off and wait 20 minutes or so for all the computers to shutdown before it works right again. About a month ago I had to take it to Chevrolet because it had a reduced performance check engine light on, seems the manifold to the turbo split, turbo 4 not an option on the 2500. Just replaced all the tires last week, two of them were original. Still running the original brakes. Every morning, when I first drive it the trans free spins for a bit then catches, been doing that for a long time. Only does it after sitting overnight and it's not like the old Torqueflight morning sickness. It'll run and drive for about 30 seconds, freewheel, then catch and go, then be fine the rest of the day. What else... oh yeah, the average mpg isn't really all that better than the 2019 Silverado 2500 LB 4x4 I had, 6.0 V8. Both averaged about 17 mpg with how and where I drive.

Swapping in an automatic isn't going to happen easily or for cheap. Wilcap makes an adapter to do this, Starts at $1250. Then you still need the transmission and driveshaft, plus some sort of shifter setup. Figure out how to mount the trans since it's a single mount vice the original's two point mount. So now your engine is a single point and so is the trans and it'll swing in the breeze. Your engine/trans combo needs to be, at least, a three point setup. You can keep the original axle if you want, but no parking brake setup if you swap the trans. So you need to figure out what to do there. There used to be a pinion mounted parking brake setup for Ford 9" axles that might be adaptable. Of you can sort something out, maybe a bike disc brake setup as a starting point? If you swap the rear axle as well and go with the suggested Jeep units then you will have to sort out how to actuate those parking brakes. All doable, just not bolt in, or cheap, or simple.

There is nothing that meets all your parameters.

A sharp 90 is a restriction to flow, but the question here seems to be, is it the issue? Seems so in your case based on what you are saying. Bend up a hard line with a smoother. more gentle 90 and see if that does it. A coat hanger can be hand bent as a template.

Simple enough to answer. If you have a crank handy, look at the parting lines. Cast cranks have a sharper parting line than a forged crank. Hang the crank from a rope and hit it, lightly lol, with a hammer. If it rings clear like a bell it's a forged crank. If it doesn't then it is either a cast crank or a bad forged crank. Neither is iron though. https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/how-to-tell-forged-crank-from-cast-spotters-guide/

My Daughter and SIL bought a nice place out in the country. He;;'s in the process of unwinding prior work, lol. One day he was sorting out the lights on the shop. It's a nice 30x40 with two lights at eh man door and two more at the roll up. Seems the ones at eh roll up didn't work and it wasn't bulbs so he started looking at the wiring. When he got done the breaker would trip when he tried to turn on the lights so he asked me for help when I visited. Soon as he told me what happened I said that it looked like he wired the hot and neutral together thru the switch and that is exactly what happened. Once we got it sorted and tested out I was buttoning up the J box when one of the wire nuts started to come loose. So I leaned over, opened the breaker and proceeded to address the issue, only to get the crap shocked out of me. I turned off the wrong breaker and did NOT verify it was dead. Yeah, I needed that lesson, again, lol. Anyway, we got it sorted, buttoned up. Not to ding on m SIL here, at least he steeped back and asked for help. But that is just one of many electrical issues that place has. Like when you touched the kitchen faucet it would shock you. Not sure what that was all about as they had an electrician fix that.

During my conversion to EFI I had to make adapters to bolt some Weber throttle bodies to my fixed and intake. I just use some phenolic board. Here is how I get it. https://www.yourolddad.com/tbi-adapters

Probably wouldn't hurt to make sure your hydraulic fluid was topped off.

You haven't even addressed my statement. any increased resistance in a circuit is a load increase. You bring up Ohm's law, fine. Calculate the current drop across the components of any given circuit, then add unwanted resistance and recalculate the current drops. Convert to power and guess what, you lose power as the unwanted resistance takes it's share of the available power.

Endeavor to persevere

Looking good but what did the youngster see?

Harmonic balancer puller ought to pull the hub

Well, if you really want an OEM one https://www.ebay.com/itm/395160718796

I meant the original, factory one you replaced when doing the swap.

Put the old sensor back in?

Wow, it took me a while to find the disc brake write I did, here it is. Don't construe anything I wrote as a recommendation to avoid this kit. It's just a heads up of what to address.

It's simple enough to figure out if you think about it. What do the breakers trip? The power side. Same thing with any switch he needs to control the power side. It's a safety thing more than anything else. Because if you're working on a lighting fixture and you've turned off the switch is your only form of protection and the switch only controls the return side that means to fix your is hot. You're standing on your aluminum step ladder and you grab that fixture and complete the path to ground guess what you're going to get a shock.

I wonder how hard it would be to grind off those nubs and polish the lens so you can't tell they were ever there?

Short block refers to the engine without head, manifolds, or tin work. Long block means engine with head, may or may not have tin work. It does not mean 23" vs 25" engines. F0r the OP, years ago Vintage Power Wagons use to have surplus 230 crate engines, forget how complete they were. Every now and then they pop up on the internet. But I do not know of anyone that has them on the shelf.

I am curious as to how well that old steel will weld to the new steel. I assume, I know, the metallurgy is going to be different.

Ordinarily they will tell you 60 psi is bad. But my 51 Cambridge has been like that for the 4 years i have owned and driven it,

Yes, I grew up near there in NW Indiana a couple of miles south of Lake Michigan. I was a paperboy when the blizzard of 78 rolled in, chest deep snow. Drifts to the peak of the house. There is a reason I moved. I have cousins in the area who like to give me grief when it's 110+ out here and I point them to their show shovels.