Sniper

It's simple enough to figure out if you think about it. What do the breakers trip? The power side. Same thing with any switch he needs to control the power side. It's a safety thing more than anything else. Because if you're working on a lighting fixture and you've turned off the switch is your only form of protection and the switch only controls the return side that means to fix your is hot. You're standing on your aluminum step ladder and you grab that fixture and complete the path to ground guess what you're going to get a shock.

I wonder how hard it would be to grind off those nubs and polish the lens so you can't tell they were ever there?

Short block refers to the engine without head, manifolds, or tin work. Long block means engine with head, may or may not have tin work. It does not mean 23" vs 25" engines. F0r the OP, years ago Vintage Power Wagons use to have surplus 230 crate engines, forget how complete they were. Every now and then they pop up on the internet. But I do not know of anyone that has them on the shelf.

I am curious as to how well that old steel will weld to the new steel. I assume, I know, the metallurgy is going to be different.

Ordinarily they will tell you 60 psi is bad. But my 51 Cambridge has been like that for the 4 years i have owned and driven it,

Yes, I grew up near there in NW Indiana a couple of miles south of Lake Michigan. I was a paperboy when the blizzard of 78 rolled in, chest deep snow. Drifts to the peak of the house. There is a reason I moved. I have cousins in the area who like to give me grief when it's 110+ out here and I point them to their show shovels.

Why would it? That's exactly how the module works the coil. I would think that would be less stressful than cycling the 12v to the module like that diagram shows.

I have yet to master Gibberish, either authentic frontier or modern.

Nice work on the jig, the FSM have for my Plymouth does give those measurements as a double check, not sure if they are the same as a Desoto's but I imagine the Desoto manual would have those measurement too?

Not sure why you think that, a good running 230 will have around 21" of vacuum, sufficient for any booster. A check valve, usually it is built into the nipple on the booster itself.

And I am headed to Sierra Blanca for a job. Good thing I am not paying for the gasoline

My thought as well, if you have a heat gun or even a hair dryer you can use it to heat things up in the driveway and see what fails. I'd start with the coil pack. Maybe, depends on how close the PCV connection is and how oily it gets. Pull the PCV hose and see how oily it is to get an idea?

Let me preface the following statement with these caveats. My experience with Chrysler Minivans involves in 1989 Plymouth Voyager with a turbocharged four cylinder and a distributor. None of which is applicable to your situation. However it has been my experience that on engines that use coil packs like your V6 This Is How They function. The ASD relay supplies 12 volts it also supplies 12 volts to the fuel pump and if the ASD is shutting off your fuel pump shuts off you lose fuel pressure and you have a non running engine not a misfire. Although I suppose it is entirely possible that the ASD is shutting off and turning on that the fuel pressure does not have time to drop off noticeably. How the coil packs work is they all get 12 volts from the asd. That coil pack in your case consists of three coils inside the pack each with two towers it's called a wasted spark system so each cylinder gets spark twice once during the compression cycle when it ignites the mixture and the other during the exhaust cycle when it doesn't really matter. The computer switches the grounds to the individual coils. I don't know if this helps but it might give you a little clearer understanding on how your ignition system works

Tell you what I will mail you a radiator cap at my expense if you hook me up with a headlight for my Jaguar

12 volt coil? Best I can do, my 51's distributor