Sniper

Yes it is. I ought to fit, though some of the internals might be different than a pass car 230.

As a note, I have one of those adapters, I have not tried to test fit it yet. The wheel I want to use is on back order. Guess I ought to see if it fits before I spend the money on the wheel, lol.

did you do a site search?

Assuming everything is already all cleaned and laid out and ready to assemble doesn't take more than a day and not even a really long day. There are lots of YouTube videos out there showing you how to do things. And it also depends on how detailed you want to get. I don't know what your machine shop is already done for you but it's not a really difficult job

That's the comment I was responding to. Although sometimes your battery is bad enough that just turning on the headlights is enough to make it fail. That happened with my mother-in-law's Kia. Put my meter on the battery it read about 12.7 volts had to turn on the headlights and it dropped the two and a half told her her battery was bad

Headlights don't really provide that big a draw compared to the starter you're looking at 10 or maybe 15 amps with the headlights and hundreds with the starter.

I always loved the 38's

I believe 12bolt bought Langdon out?

Love that Sedan Delivery

While uncommon it is not unknown for a brand new battery to be bad especially under a heavy load. And starting your car is the heaviest load it will ever see. I would put a meter on it try to start the car and see what the voltage drops down to

I cannot answer your question directly. But what I have done in the past when I come across a fastener that the manual has no torque specification for is I look up the torque spec for a nut with that thread pitch and diameter. Now there are some important things you need to know to get the correct spec if it's a plated fastener you need to know what type of plating because that will affect the specification. But generally speaking those kind of things in our applications are unplated so you don't really have to worry about it. Also if you use any kind of lubricant on the threads that will change the torque specification. Usually at least in the later Mopar, the threads are lubricated with 30 weight engine oil for the specifications given. I don't know if that applies to Studebakers or even the early Mopar manuals

Countersunk bolts are self-aligning. So when you bolt that adapter plate to the bell housing it's going to bolt into the same position every time, theoretically. If it were a free floating setup such as you would have with hex head bolts then there would be opportunity for it to move around. I would Mount up the adapter plate check the run out in accordance with the service manual and adjust it for Center, torque down those bolts make sure everything still in spec and then drill a couple of alignment holes and run a pin through them so that that plate goes on to the same spot every time in the future. Not that you'd have a lot of call for removing it. If it's off, it would not surprise me if the later model offset dial pin that was mentioned would also work on our flatheads to adjust it. The factory does all of that when they built the assembly so theoretically if your adapter plate is perfectly centered on the bell housing, then you should not be any more off than the factory had it. Yeah, some of us can be belt and suspender types. But inherently, we're lazy, LOL. We'd rather do it once, do it right, and never have to do it again. The thing about the adapter plate is that those guys don't know your specific situation. Maybe you swapped out the bell housing, and even the factory will tell you if you do that you need to double check the run out.

Sometimes research can take you down a rabbit hole lol. I've run into that quite a bit. When I made my air cleaners for my dual throttle body fuel injection setup I just pretty much decided to squeeze in the biggest air filters I could and that turned out to be 7 inch diameter for each throttle body. Since then I've rethought it and I've decided to go with a 14 inch air cleaner and just punched two holes in the base plate to mount on the throttle bodies and have them share a common element. Will that work better? I don't know did I do the math to see which had more area for filtration? Nope. I just kind of winged it LOL

Everything else being equal water has better thermal transfer characteristics than any mixture of coolant and water. We're coolant and that's mostly a misnomer shines is in Corrosion Prevention and not freezing as easily. Depending on the type of coolant it can run hotter without boiling over as well. But unless your car is on the edge of overheating with coolant running straight water is always a bad idea. At the temporary measure once you fix the leak to get you home sure to run it all the time that's a great way of asking for a lot of crud in your cooling system

Yes, that is normal. In fact it is a measurable quantity used to calculate caster during an alignment.