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chopt50wgn

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Everything posted by chopt50wgn

  1. chopt50wgn
    I got rubber for my 50 Ply from Atlas Obsolete Auto Parts..........Atlaschrys@aol.com......951-461-9005
  2. chopt50wgn
    All cars on the road today have electric fans. The best advice you can take when using an electric fan is to run it through a relay. Having it hooked to a relay will save your fan and the switch.
  3. chopt50wgn
    Tim.........when you use a torch and weld, doesnt it make alot of heat and add to warping sheet metal? I've done more MIG than anything and alway have a wet towl handy to help quench. My buddy who did the chassis on my wagon does only TIG and he makes it look easy. But anyway......you do nice work.
  4. chopt50wgn
    tell him..........friends don't let friends drive chevies............. or put motors from a chevy in a Mopar
  5. chopt50wgn
    I saw pics of after one of the tornados in MO....a nice looking El Camino about 1969 with a tree sitting on it sideways like a hot dog sitting in a bun...........those pics are terrible to see. But I do not want to take away from the heart wrenching grief from losing your home or loss of life. Cars can be replaced.
  6. chopt50wgn
    The fans on the market today advertise the CFM of air . But the one thing they don't say is what the CFM is after you attach it to the radiator. The static drop in CFM is drastic in some brands of fans. Being that I work for a hot rod cooling company, we have tested some fans and the best one we found for least amount of drop was the Spal. They advertise 2750CFM and after the static drop, it was 2350. We tested another brand name fan that advertised 3000cfm, after static drop of attaching it to the raditor, the fan only pulled 1100 CFM. Just pointing out some hopefully usefull info.
  7. chopt50wgn
    The rust encapsulator from Eastwood works great over surface rust. I also have use rust bullet over rust and it works good too.
  8. chopt50wgn
    Since you are replacing back and front lines, this might be a good time to drain your master cylinder and fill with fresh fluid.
  9. chopt50wgn
    Make sure you do get a true pusher fan. Some fan companies will sell you a puller and tell you turn the blade around, thats not a pusher unless you also switch the polarity on the motor. Get yourself a Spal fan. The make a true pusher or puller. Also make sure you run the electrics through a relay!!
  10. chopt50wgn
    www.steelerubber.com
  11. chopt50wgn
    we set the chassis at ride height with the struts and will put in the coilovers in front and rear when I am done and ready to take on its first ride.
  12. chopt50wgn
    No racing is anticipated. I had a pro-street Dart ,a 10 sec street car. Sold it about 18 months ago. This car is going to be a driver with power steering, brakes, stereo,heater and 3.0 gears in the rear hope to get about 15-20 MPG, where the Dart got 4-5. The money being put in this is the money I got from selling the Dart and since this will be my last all out build, I'm doing it the way I want.
  13. chopt50wgn
    Heres a few pics of my 50 Ply wagon with the Heidts IRS and new Fatman front suspension.
  14. chopt50wgn
    What Don says is really what you want to listen to. Whats the sense in coating the outside if the inside is what is subjected to the moisture and the other gases from the exhaust. Only way to get both coated is to have then ceramic coated inside and out or go with stainless.
  15. chopt50wgn
    Any thermostat in most any car opens at the given set degree,that is 160/180 etc. They are full open at 15 degrees above the given set temp. So a 160 is full open at 175, 180 @ 195 etc.
  16. chopt50wgn
    If a motor gets warmer at speed (55MPH), it's an air side problem. The radiator is not getting enough air . Or it may be something slowing down the flow of the coolant like an air bubble. Getting hotter can lead to cavitation, which happens when an air bubble gets stuck in the flow of coolant. That usually happens right in the pump.
  17. chopt50wgn
    I like the car, but my problem is with the molded fenders. If they were not done correctly, that seam where its molded will crack out eventually from vibration.
  18. chopt50wgn
    at least it's going to be all Mopar ..........and one hell of a sleeper!!
  19. chopt50wgn
    they say........" beauty is in the eye of the beholder".........well blind in one eye and can't see out of the other here..........to each there own.
  20. chopt50wgn
    Sending unit temp gauge in the head will likely give you a higher temp on the gauge. If you are using an infrared temp gun, take temps in the radiator, head,and block. Remember the sending unit ,if it's in the manifold at the front near the radiator outlet, you are also gauging coolant at its highest temps as it is leaving the motor.
  21. chopt50wgn
    A crossflow radiator is nothing more than a top/bottom tank radiator on its side. If the fill and inlet/outlets can be used , then it will still work.
  22. chopt50wgn
    You can only really apply "filler" whether it be duraglass or bondo over an epoxy based primer. I have always used the epoxy primer as a good topcoat to seal the metal then apply the bondo.
  23. chopt50wgn
    Usually the front fitting goes to the rear brakes. But if the MC has equal size bowls ,you can plumb from either fitting. Some MC have 2 different size bowls and that's where you have to be careful to plumb correctly.
  24. chopt50wgn
    I come here to get questions answered and you can see by the small amount of posts I have , I haven't asked or answered that many questions.I have had disagreements about some things, but I have found that everyone has their own opinion and are free to say what they want. I don't know anything about this "boo bird" issue but I think JD, you maybe are taking this way too serious. I have seen your posts and you are a contributing member who I and I bet many more respect. Please rethink leaving .....you still have many more good answers to give.
  25. chopt50wgn
    5wt or 10 wt should be the first numbers on the oil you use. like 10w-30 or 5w-30. using a straight 30wt or 40 wt is fine if you live in 75deg+ temps all year long, but if you are going to drive the car in cold weather, it may use up the battery trying to turn the crank thru thicker oil.
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