chopt50wgn

born and raised in a small town in Pennsylvania.....Pottstown

The Dynamats and Hushmats work well. I have hushmat in my wagon ,on the roof and ceiling. The oil can noise has been reduced greatly. When the interior is ready to go in I will also do the floors and inside the doors. The stuff isn't cheap , but jute backed insulation can still absorb moisture like a sponge and then rust the floors.

Top was chopped 4 inches and the posts were canted forward. Doors were also canted forward and rounded.

here's some pics after we got the Fatman clip on, then with a tire mounted

Tim.........I'm putting an independent Heidts rear and new Fatman clip on the front end. I am NOT taking the body off my wagon. I can get to all the spots that need to be cleaned up and then painted with a good epoxy. Parts that can be powdered, will be, other just epoxy paint.

if he can afford a 1 million $$ car, he can well afford to fix it , even tho he is a dumbass

I understand what you said, but the initial problem was the car when I bought it had dropped spindles and a different setup on it. It also had an 8" ford rear that wasn't mounted properly either. So knowing the wheelbase now will give us what we need. Am also putting a Heidts independent rear in after the front is done so we will know exactly what the WB needs to be.

Tim........I bow to the master!!!......thanks. Reason I needed the steel wagon specs is I put a Fatman clip on the front of my wagon. Fatman said to cut the frame 17" from the center hole of the front body mounts. Well we did and after tacking the clip on and putting on the fenders and tires, the front end is to far front. The wheelbase measured alittle more than 112", so seeing that the stock is 111", we now know the clip has to go back alittle more than 1" Fatman also told me that the clip they sell for a 50 Plymouth is the same for a coupe or wagon. I talked to their engineer and told them our measurements were different for a wagon. Thats why I needed the specs for a coupe. But after seeing the specs for a coupe, I know now the 111" for the steel wagon is what I needed........again, many thanks for your info.!!!

I need the exact measurement in inches for the steel wagon and same for 2 door coupe.

I know the guys here are very knowledgeable and I am asking for the stock wheelbase measurements for a 50 Plymouth wagon and a 50 Plymouth Suburban 2 door wagon. I know someone here can tell me ,so thanks in advance for the info.

I had the fatman steering on my 50 Plymouth when I bought the car. It was a nice setup except for the fact that the steering (tie rods) sat very low , almost too low. I sold the control arms and spindles and got a whole Fatman stub for mine. Like the guy said.....I would call them before you buy.

I like the look..............get it fitted tighter and centered up , very cool.

mochevy said it all.......if the bulb was on the bottom of the pan it will register higher temps due to picking up the direct heat from the burner. Just keep the bulb suspended and if the gauge is correct you should see the right temp. Use a thermometer to keep track of the water temp and gauge as well.

There is no need to use etching primer when the surface is already blasted. The surface already has a "tooth" for the primer to bond to. If you use an epoxy based primer, you won't have to worry about any surface rust and the primer will bond very well.

Ever tried Evans coolant? boiling point of 375degF, eliminates vapor barriers inside the block, lifetime coolant, low pressure running, totally compatible with all metals, eliminates electrolysis. I have it in all my daily drivers and my hot rods.

Check the bottom hose for a spring or use a ribbed one. Being that the bottom hose is the suction side of the system , it can suck itself partially closed at speed and will impair flow back to the radiator.

my 1st car was a 62 dodge dart with a 383, that was back in 1966..have been Mopar ever since

Julianos has a whole bunch of different color fender welts. They will even match a color to your car, but for a price.

Joe.........I will try to get a pic for ya. You can tell if the hood you have has a brace it will have the 3 hole for bolts to bolt the hood to the hinge. It will also have 2 holes on the brace above the farthest hinge bolt to bolt the brace to either side of the hinge.

thanks Tim...........can always count on guys in here with the knowledge .

Is there a rubber piece that bolts to the brace across the hood on a 50 Plymouth? The brace has somewhat of a dip in it and there is a hole ,like something bolts to it. Does anyone here know ?.....thanks

In most cases where an air bubble is either trapped in the pump or the block, the best way to get it freed up is to cycle the motor. That is,get it hot, let it cool down. If you keep doing this over time the bubble will free itself up.

Some things to know about cooling systems.........when running a water based coolant, when the motor gets hot, cavatation can form in the pump and in the block. That bubble will move eventually, that' why you will see the temps start to rise, only to fall fast due the bubble being broken. Another thing is the so called "dwell time" in a radiator, Any time coolant flows through the radiator it is being cooled. The temps of the coolant coming back through the suctions side of the pump is what is important. If the fan, pump and rad are doing their job correctly, then the coolant coming back should be 10-15 degrees cooler than what the gauge is reading. Lastly, the sending units for temp gauges are usually at the front of the manifold, right near the thermostat housing. So the coolant temps are being gauged as the coolant is LEAVING the motor, not what the temps are in the motor.

Being that I work for a cooling company , I have customers who do not have an expansion tank on the radiator. So I tell them to just hang an empty coke bottle in the wheel well, hook up the overflow tube to it. Take the car out to get it warmed up. Then whatever coolant expands into the bottle, just pour it into the jug in your shop. Keep doing this until the bottle stays empty. Then you know the expansion is taking place within the radiator and not pushing it out the overflow tube onto to ground.

Howa bout some good ole brake cleaner. Spray it on, it dries fast and then wire wheel.