Jump to content

TJM70's_48

Members
  • Posts

    186
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

10 Good

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    Formerly owned 1948 P-15

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    This is my first antique car; I have a lot of learning to do!
  • Occupation
    Salesman

Converted

  • Location
    Western PA, Pittsburgh
  • Interests
    Very interested in the WWII era...I also repair radios

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks, Bill. Very helpful. I posted to try and find out what to be aware of...look out for & take into consideration. If I have some time today, I'll take a look at the turnsignal setup; It's a Signal Stat 800.
  2. Yep. Radios, TVs, clocks, etc...other electronic items. So, I should get the basics, I think. In my mind, I'll either get stop lights and no turn signal or a flashing center light when turning...trying not to over complicate it but would like to get brake and turn signals. Someone else suggested a separate mechanical switch for the fender brake lights to me like Denisons did above. Just looking for the right way to do it... Todd at Technostalgia made me think they might not be the same setup as referenced in the posted instruction sheet. I think Don explained it perfectly and according to the directions from Technostalgia, looks like it will work if they are still the same. I'm usually guilty of over-thinking things.
  3. All the answers have been very helpful; I appreciate the generous help provided in this forum. I do a lot more reading and lurking than posting because I am still learning - often by trial and error - about my car and old cars in general. So, all advice is greatly appreciated. I am usually a pretty quick study, but, have learned a lot over the past four years of having my Plymouth. So much more to go...
  4. No I did not...Todd from Technostalgia emailed me directions that aren't the same as what you posted. I should not have assumed they were the same - I had already read the instruction sheet from Todd and couldn't figure out how to do what I wanted based on those. Thanks again for the help and for pointing out the important difference. I ought to be good to go when they arrive (on backorder). Tom
  5. Don - do you have turn signals when braking? Initially I thought the LED rigs had three wires - tail, stop and turn. But, they apparently have just two...I can't get my head around the schematic for the setup without causing the center stop to flash when turn signal is on OR without cancelling the turn signal when braking...
  6. Don...I didn't know of any other brake light switch (though was on on the MC...not, though...so much to learn)...I also was confused so I asked a question that didn't really make sense. Your illustration and description are great...I think I get it or at least will get it. Greg G - the supplier has 6V pos ground taillight assemblies available. No need to switch to 12v pos.
  7. So I take it you are happy with them Don? I don't think he has the center stop light in 6V, so I'm staying stock there. Is the brake switch for the master cylinder?
  8. Thanks for the quick reply...not sure if I understand just right regarding the LED setup I am thinking of using... I would be switching away from incandescent setup to all in one LED housing. Here are the new lights: http://www.cool-leds.com/1946-48-plymouth-6-volt.html There are three functions available in the lights in two circuits - 1) taillight and 2) stop / turn As my car is currently wired, I'd get taillights and turn signals out of these but I was looking for some wiring guidance - either in the aftermarket turn signal unit or within the trunk - to get the stoplight function working in the fenders. I suspect it's more complicated than it appears or the car would have brake lights in the fender already.
  9. I am thinking of buying the Technostalgia LED tail light / turn signals. They come set up for tail light and stop / turn... With the center trunk brake light as my only brake light right now, is anyone aware of a way to wire the new taillights in so I get stop light action in the fenders? I have a stock 6 V, pos ground car with aftermarket turn signals. Thanks.
  10. This is my thought process too. I think I got a good bleed out of it but there are lots of places for air to hide. Before I'm done, I'll switch the pins if I need to...figured now was a good time to ask. I have so much to learn.....
  11. Is this an issue of brand - I bought Raybestos cylinders - or is pin length related to cylinder location / type? I have a double handicap - I don't know if work done by previous owners was right or not and I have never worked on old equipment / non-modern brakes before.
  12. I have read varying opinions on using longer wheel cylinder shoe pins and wanted to find out what the proper front length is. After installing my new front wheel cylinders, I re-used the old = short pins that were in the existing cylinders. I thought I had read to do this. The cylinders came with longer pins - which I still have - and I wanted to find out if I should be using those. The new pins are 1.75" long. Is there a guideline for this? I am waiting on the Ammco brake tool to arrive on loan so I don't think I can judge my braking performance yet based on my home-made centering tool alone. However, I still have a soft pedal until I pump two times. I'm wondering if the cylinder pistons are traveling too far out toward the end of the cylinder?
  13. The first removal method advice I received was remove the outer bearing, replace washer and nut and yank the drum until the seal and bearing come out of the hub. I tried this but it really felt barbaric. I couldn't help but believe I would be causing damage by doing it that way. Thus, the pliers and controlled pulling came into play. I'll use the drift punch (now that I know what one is and that I have one in my tools) for the other side. I like to do things right - when I know what "right" is! I have been wishing for a caliper today several times.
  14. OK...with the bearing number and the Timken web site I was able to cross reference and compare sizes / seals until I'm fairly sure I got the right one. In any case, I'll know in three days when they arrive. Inside bearing is Timken 15123 Timken seal is 471831 - specs: Outside diameter is 2.447", Seal shaft is 1.75" and seal width is .374" Various other part numbers for the seal that cross reference with Timken 471831 are: PR1378 (Repco), 904485 (Badger), 843377M1 (Massey Ferguson) and National is 471831 also. SKF part number is 17320 Hope this is helpful to someone else later down the road and thanks for the replies.
  15. More learning on my part. I figured I better come clean about using pliers to pull it out anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use