chopt50wgn

wonder what it would bring at Barrett-Jackson?

Do not shoot clear over the chrome. For any type paint (clear is a paint) you have to have a "tooth" for the paint to bond to. So unless you want to sand the bumper, just give it a good wax and forget it.

Water wetter, 40 Below, Purple Ice, and any other additive on the market are nothing more than a surface tension lowering additive. In other words they make water more slippery so it flows faster in the system. Most all do say to mix with only water and no antifreeze but reading the label on them is a must.The downside to any of them is that the boiling point of the water is lowered due to either no antifreeze or very little.

When running front discs and rear drums it is mandatory to use a proportioning valve. There are companies like Wilwood and others that sell them and can be adjusted for the proper braking.

you do not want negative caster. 3-4 degrees of positive caster is what you should be shooting for. anything less is fine for low speed driving but I wouldn't do any 55-65 mph highway speeds. the car will be all over the road.

When you refill a system from the radiator, you must look for an air bubble stuck in the motor. The way you know you have one is the motor will get hot real fast. The only way to get the bubble out is to cycle the motor.........let it get hot, cool down , get hot cool down.Doing that a few times should move the bubble. And no, you don't have to prime a water pump.

After the hood is totally aligned and works, I always drill an 1/8" hole for alignment thru the hinge and into the hood where it bolts on. That way when you have to remove the hood, you can use an 1/8" bit to align the hole and you have perfect alignment again.

You may want to see if there are residual valves in the lines. There should be a 2lb for the front and a 10 lb for the rear. Residual valves should be plumbed into a disc/drum setup to help keep brake fluid from draining back in the lines.

there is nothing better looking than a clean engine compartment...........besides just looking good, it's also nice not to get all greasy when you have to work on something. you're doing a great job and it shows, looks real nice.!!!

1st thing is you want to use a relay for the pump. You can wire it up to a switch that you turn on from inside before you start the motor or have one wired to the ignition so when you turn the ignition on the pump runs. I don't know if gutting the mechanical pump would be a good idea. The gutted pump may not allow the flow from the electric pump to be a steady flow.

normally when you take something to be coated, either powder or ceramic, you can tell them what needs to be covered. Or if you are sending it away, put tape on the parts that need be covered and then call the place to make sure they understand what you want. I wouldn't heat paint it. I have never seen any heat paint stay on too much after it has been on the motor for any length of time. We get water pumps ceramic coated at my work and we have never had a fit problem after it was coated.

I was always teased about being a devout Mopar guy. All my buddies are chevy guys, so one day I finally had enough teasing and told them...........Chevies are like your kid sisters best friend, she's cute and she's there............but who cares!!!!

wellllllllll.......they do give you directions with it ,BUT!!! they are for a coupe not the wagon. So after tacking it into place and trying on a fender, we had the tire too far into the wheel well. We took a wheelbase measurement and found we had 112.5".....wheelbase for this all steel wagon is 111". So we had to move the whole thing back 1.5" and start over. I will say that Fatman did work with me and was a big help in getting it right along with my friend Tim who is tig welding everything.

Electric fans that are sold today are meant to be pullers, Some will say you can turn the blade around and make it a pusher. It will work if you also have the motor reversed, but that's the only way it will push. There are true pushers on the market, Spal makes either a pusher or puller and not sell you a puller and turn the blade around.

here's some pics of the Fatman front end with motor being mounted ans the Heidts new IRS . Its still along way from being done but at least its a roller soon.

Speaking of Barrett-Jackson............was watching the new one from OC Calif..............saw lots of very nice cars going for alot less then what they would cost to build. I think the days of selling real nice street rods or resto-mod for big $$$ are done. Better to just hold on to it and have fun driving it.

Just alittle FYI for all.............most sending units for the temp gauge is near or close the outlet water neck to the radiator. So keeping that in mind, if everything in the cooling system is doing it's job, pump, fan and radiator, then the thing one has to remember is the coolant is being gauged at it's hottest point right as it exits the motor and goes into the radiator. If the radiator is up to par, the temp drop across it should be 15-20 so the coolant going back to the motor is cooler and then the cycle goes on.

Use a Spal fan....they have the least static loss pressure of most any fan out there. Spals are rated at around 2700cfm and when attached to the radiator they have a 2350 cfm pull. The company I work for tested a brand name 3000cfm fan and when attached to the rad, the fan only pulled 1100 cfm. The electric fans today are rated at a specific CFM but what they don't tell you is the drop in cfm when attached to the radiator, which is static pressure.

You must be careful of running "pusher" fans. They MUST be pushers and rated as a pusher. Some fan companies will tell you to take the blade and turn it around to make it a pusher. Unless you make the motor spin backwards, it is not a pusher. Spal makes true pushers or pullers and sells them accordingly to what you want. When using an electric fan , the CFM rating is what it is rated for before static pressure is applied. Static pressure is the drop in CFM when the fan is attached to the radiator. We tested some fans and found that the initial CFM was 3200 and after static pressure(attaching to rad) the CFM fell to 1400. A belt driven fan will produce as many CFM as RPM of the motor. If the motor idles at 800 RPM, then fan CFM is also 800.

Yes, I did.....he told me where he sent it.......I called them too.........the guy I talked to had no idea what happened to the car or even where it was.......no help at all..........so I figured if I will stick with someone here who can help. The guys here are top notch and always ready to help out another member.

I need the back seat from a 49-50? suburban wagon. It has 2 pieces and hinges on the bottom. if you have just a frame, that will do as well.

thanks for the info.............called the guy today 4/25........he sent it to salvage already , a week before he said he would, so still looking.

Anyone know of someone who is parting out a 49-50 Plymouth statin wagon. If so I would like to get in touch with them. Any help would be appreciated.....thanks

been there for the past 3 yrs. it's a good day to get some exercise and walk around looking at lots of car stuff, but the only thing I came home with is wheel cleaner and small stuff. not going this year

Like lucky said....look for leaks, let it get hot then check. Also put the right cap on.