chopt50wgn

Trying to get the doors correctly hung on my wagon. The hinge pins seem to be shot..........what size is the hole and where can I get 4 pins? And do they take upper and lower bushings? thanks ahead of thime.......

She finally came down off the stands. Wanted to see how the stance looks. I think it is just right.............getting there. Using a fabbed roll pan instead of rear bumper w/ frenched license plate.

it is a carb pre-heater and from the one pic, it looks like the flange that would cover and make a tight fit is rusted out. Its no good if it can't seal.

Why not just get the 3rd member you have already rebuilt? That way you know the rear is in good shape and no problems.

The heater in the pics is a Mojave heater.........made by Flex-a-lite. I have one mounted in my 50 wagon. Have it mounted on the firewall and it gets it heat from the motors coolant just like any heater.

Love the look of it so far. Have you figured out how the exhaust will hang and where it will exit? Very cool delivery!!!

My nephew came ove to my house one afternoon looing like that except with the baggy pants and hat on sideways. I looked him straight in the eye and asked ......"do you have mirrors in your house and do you know just how stupid you look"...and he's 26 yrs old.......and you wonder why you can't find a job.

There may be a metal supply place in your town. Check out the yellow pages or go to a restoration shop or a body shop and ask where they get their sheet metal. I agree using galvanized is not recommended for patch work. Places where you can drill galvanized and pop rivet it is not a problem, but welding it can be dangerous along with trying to get primer to stick to it.

Can't tell you what size it is, but if you are using a corrugated hose that could be why you are seeing less airflow. The corrugation creates turbulence, you need to have a smoother hose.

I was under the impression that soldered joints were more prone to break or crack due to being rigid. Using crimped connectors with heat shrink over the connections seems to be a better way to go. I have never soldered joints on any wire job I have done and have never had a problem.

Most body shops are in the 75-85$ an hour range. If thats true for your area then the bill for body & painting should be in the $3000+ range. 7 hours to rewire is also somewhat shy of how much time it really takes to do something as tedious as wiring and do it correctly. You need to take this car to a reputable shop that deals with hot rods and have them look and give you and estimate. Don't know who's insurance you have on the car but I suggest not taking what they are offering as you will be diggin into your own pockets to finish paying for everything.

The elongated one is the one to use. Since the hole is longer it gives you some adjustment in the fenders.

Reg.............I got to check out a friends 49 cp. Saw what hole is used , but thanks for the offer.

I have had my 50 Ply wagon apart for so long that I am not sure which hole to use. There are 2 holes on the front fender where it bolts to the radiator support. One hole is kinda elongated, the other round. Which hole does the fender bolt to the radiator support? Thanks in advance for helping out.

I also agree with Tim...........when something or everything is on its way out, ..time to upgrade. You say you have the Alt and new custom tail-lights.....thats a start. You will also need all new switches, starter, gauges, and anything else that's electrical plus a 12V battery. Plan to spend some $$$ but the upgrade is well worth it.

Most all aluminum radiators are 2 rows of 1" tubes. Stock copper/ brass rads are anywhere from 2-4 rows of 3/8" tubes. Aluminum rads start at 2 rows of 1" tube and you can get bigger tube widths like 1.25" and 1.50". I have seen 3 rows of 1" tubes but they are mostly for 800-1000 HP. Some dealers who sell aluminum rads advertise 3 rows because they are comparing them to a stock copper/brass. One row of 1" aluminum tube will flow better than 2 rows of 3/8" because it's wider and carries more cooling fins per inch. The upside of aluminum rads is that they are all ne metal and dissipate heat more evenly. And although copper/brass does do a good job of dissipating heat, they are still soldered to the tanks and the lead solder does hold the heat longer, which means it dissipates slower.

Have you checked out Speedway catalog? or go on a search and I bet there are plenty of flatty speed places .

I know this may not be a help to you Tom, but after my sister was killed, she also did not have a will. I was executor and have been preaching to everyone I know.............if you don't have a will, make one now. I hope things go well for you and that her family will see you for the great person you are.

They make different types of dollies for different rolling surfaces. They make some dollies with composite wheels and others with steel wheels. The steel wheeled version is for a concrete pad in your shop. I also have a set with for concrete that have the rotating wheels. I put my car I used to have on it. It only weighed 2600 lbs. Had it in my shop which has smooth floor. It was a PITA to move around unless you have a few buddies to help.

The extended life coolant on the market today pose major issues , the biggest one is electroylsis. Electroylsis happens as the coolant gets older. As it passes over the different metals in the car like aluminum head, steel blocks the coolant gets acidic. And over time breaks down and starts to generate electricity. Now it is very small amounts but it stll can do major damage to a cooling system. And that goes for the new cars as well. Most people today see the coolant is made to go 150,000 mile. Well working in the cooling industry, I have seen many radiators that have been eaten apart from the inside out from the "long life" coolants. All 50/50 mix coolants whether it is the green/yellow, or any of the other colors out there should be changed every 2 years regardless of the make and model.

In stop and go traffic, the motor will get warmer. The air flow is only as good as the fan pulling air into the radiator. At speed the motor should cool down because of more air hitting the radiator. If the motor does not cool at speed, that's when one should worry. Also ambient air temps do play a big part in cooling. 100 deg air does not cool 200 deg motors very well. But a motor is still very safe up at 200-210. Most new cars today run in the 225-235 range with no problems. On most older cars the sending unit is located on the front of the manifold near the top hose outlet. The coolant passes that sending unit at its hottest point on its way to the radiator. You are not gauging temps of coolant in the block, you are gauging it at its hottest point as it is leaving the motor. If the pump, fan and radiator are doing their job, coolant temps coming back in the bottom hose should be 15-20 deg cooler. It's just that you do not see that on the gauge.

Any thermostat will open at the given set opening temp. But they are not fully open until they hit 15 degF above set opening temp. So a 160 will open at 160 but not be full open til 175. For every pound pressure cap a radiator has , it will boost the boiling point of water by 3 deg per pound. So a 15 lb cap will boost the boiling point by 45 deg added to the boiling point of water at 212 and you have 257degF before boiling. A zero pressure system will alow water to evaporate faster because there is no pressure. Sending units for most gauges is located at the front of the manifold near the top hose outlet. The sending unit is picking up the coolant temps as it passes that sending unit. The coolant is also at its hottest as it passes ,but it is also coolant that is leaving the motor, not whats in the block. If the pump, fan, radiator are doing there job, coolant temps in the motor should be cooler than what the gauge is reading. Just passing on some cooling knowledge....

You can make any pressure cap a ZERO pressure cap. All you have to do is to remove the spring and everything esle in the cap. Just leave the rubber gasket in the cap and presto....you have a zero cap.

I will be very honest and tell you that I wouldn't put a front end on a car that is bolt on. I put a Fatman MS2 front end on my 50 Ply wagon and it had to be welded on. I doubt very much if you could even find a bolt on front end of any kind.

Tank............really like the look of you 49. I had a Fatman front end on my 50 Ply wagon, but took it off and sold it. Then I put on a totally new Fatman MS2 front end. If you are looking for new king pins for yours, I have a set and will give them to you for the price of just the shipping.