sidevalvepete

Mine is a 201cu, 1938 version. Pics show full flow filter system as adapted and plumbed into the oil pump. You should be able to do something like this that is even tidier as mine is right hand drive version with steering box in the way somewhat.

If they are under ten and a half inches it would seem Dave Patten could do them. Have photographed his advert that runs each edition of the local NZ vintage car magazine - called 'Beaded Wheels'. He is well regarded in the vintage car movement in New Zealand. If you have no other options closer to home then consider him. Good luck!

Time to let it go I think........

This can be done. Not sure what providers you have in North America but this service is available in NZ where I am. An enthusiast who has developed a process and works from his home workshop. Hubcaps were reskinned to original design in stainless. I sent him my original set of 4. After completing mine he dropped one accidentally and it had a minor scratch. He offered it to me at a reduced price and I paid him for a replacement so I have four perfect and the lightly scratched one I will keep as a spare on my spare tire in the trunk. I would recommend him to anyone. If you can't find someone over there I can give you his details. I am working on doing my door sill plates too. Have a couple of local options that haven't been progressed yet. Will put up some pictures when they are sorted.

Is this your project Marcel? If so it looks great. Look forward to seeing it in your vehicle. Had a similar job done for mine. Yours is very slick ?

Haven't tried this Larry but seems a practical solution. Of course all steering mechanisms are critical for safety but I don't see any harm in proceeding with this and then keeping a close eye on it later. Not hard to check emerging free play.

Rubbers can be bought from numerous suppliers. Bernbaums, Robert's, Steele etc. Studs sit on top of chassis rails on top of arch above rear axle

https://ebay.us/JpJzSs One of the dangers of browsing on this forum is the itch that starts to develop about what to do next......... Great that these old gems are still out there.

That's a nice looking vehicle. Someone's pride and joy once and soon to be again. Like the package of radio, heater sun visor. Two tone paint looks original option too. Good pictures. Look forward to seeing your progress. ?

As in steel to replace rusted material?

No, goes like this.....

Not sure if this existed. Lots of techniques to use here though. Tap into the knowledge of old time body guys here or in your local community. Lots of patience needed. Start with straight chassis, body mounted on new rubbers. Work back to front of car..... Best I can offer...

Yeah, that's a good looking vehicle. Hope you and the family get plenty of enjoyment out of it.

Man, that car looks great!

I agree with this with a proviso.....some were still exported complete. Mine was, New Zealand had no assembly industry for the mopar vehicles and they were imported complete. The serial number on the A pillar tag can be referenced in the Parts or Shop Manual provided you have the Export version of the Parts Book. Note the 'Export Division ' written on the bottom of the cover. This book has all the D8, D9 and D10 parts information and not just the USA D8 info. I like what I see in the pic. Looks in pretty good shape. More pics please. There is good advise here on how to get it up and running safely without damaging anything in the process. You will have to decide how far you go or whether to stay original or modernised a bit. Again, lots of help here for either. My opinion, which means nothing really but I will offer it anyway, is that you seem to have an family vehicle with a known history in pretty good knick and original condition. Seems worth keeping it original.......of course entirely up to you. The engine number will tell you what you have. If you have the Parts or Shop Manual it will have that info. Or take a photo of the serial and engine numbers and post them here and I will look up in my books what you have. Look forward to seeing more. ?

You have enough for now. Will contact you in a couple of hours. Off to milk the cows........

Your DP6..... engine number means it is the Plymouth P6 series of motor. When used for the Dodge D9 they stamped a D in front. I have a 38 D9 Dodge sedan with original motor stamped similarly. This will be an export model Dodge with all Dodge trim based on the smaller Plymouth body and engine. Look forward to seeing the pictures.

Welcome aboard. As a fellow 38 owner, I look forward to seeing some pictures and hearing about your vehicle's story. This is a good community to be a part of, no matter where you are in the world.

**** you know a lot of stuff Andy.? Looked in a few model shops over the years but never absorbed that much detail. Happy new year from over the ditch!

Not working for me......

Welcome. I found by sending that picture to yourself it converts it to smaller file. Then save said picture(s) and you can attach them via add files prompt from your downloaded files in your phone......if any of that makes sense.....?

Horses for courses. Wouldn't have been the first time that he has worked on the flathead and probably shows how durable the low compression sidevalve is. Would have been plenty of home mechanics back in the day doing some similar refurbs to keep the wheels on the road. Good to see another old car guy sharing his stuff. Flip flops crack me up!

Nick. Not sure if this is any help but...... Although my vehicle is 1938, all the late 30s through to late 40s mopars had the same or very similar rubber cowl grommets and their metal surrounds. Even right and left hand drive vehicles were the same. So my wiring is nearly identical to keithb7s 38 Plymouth. All these late 30s and 40s mopars have the loom exiting the interior das through the same rubber grommet in roughly the same position before going to the starter and other destinations. See my first pic. As far as behind the dash goes, each wire from each attachment point just runs in the shortest distance and tidiest manner into its woven harness and then to the exit point in the firewall. A bit hard to see in these photos. First one looking down through the cowl vent aperture - never mind the orange coiled wire. It is for my original radio and not wired in yet. Second vague photo looking up under dash mostly showing connections to my light switches etc.

Very nice. I really look forward to seeing the rest of your progress

https://youtu.be/VKHFZBUTA4k Who would have thought........forty years ago.......