LeRoy

Hey Marc When I was going through initial start up after rebuild I ran into a similar problem. My wires ended up being off 1 position as someone else mentioned earlier in the thread. I went through the same though process you're going through - compression, spark, fuel, head scratch - repeat. When I finally got the wires in the right spot the timing wasn't very critical for the first start. If you're within 10/15deg either way it will start, or at very least cough and sputter for you. I agree that a big squirt of gas down the throat or filling the bowl and pumping a fair amount will get you the initial start where fuel is concerned. To Keith's point if you have a valve hanging open it won't be happy about it but all other things correct it will start on 5 without too much challenge. If you have multiple jugs not holding pressure it probably won't go. You can put your finger over the plug hole and spin it over for a shade tree compression test (press it in there hard) It will blow your finger out of it's got enough compression. If you can hold the pressure with your finger chances are it's too low. So all those words and I got nothing new for you. My process would look something like this. Be sure battery is full and starter is spinng engine quickly. Stick your finger in each plug hole and spin it over, if they all blow your finger off assume valves and rings are good enough to start. Ensure you have a nice bright spark - good coil and condenser, points clean and operating ok, plug wires not frayed, clean cap and rotor. Spin it over several revolutions while watching the spark to be sure it's not intermittent. Double check that your TDC timing mark on the front pulley is near the pointer. Ensure piston #1 is at TDC, rotor is pointed at the #1 plug post, wires are on correctly and correct firing order, plug gaps are close. (#6 will be in same position as 1, if you can't get that plug out weld a nut to it (get it good and hot when you weld it on then spray it with a little water to cool it down quickly for some thermal shock) and back it out). Dump a tablespoon or 2 of gas down the yap and try again. Cuss (maybe ingest another adult beverage) One additional thought. Please keep in mind I got no idea what I'm doing so everything in my post is pretty questionable advice.

Before, there's a felt wiper that goes on there too. Don't forget it, ask me how I know.

I recently got a do everything harbor freight 4 amp charger. No idea if it will work but it claims it can save/restore completely dead batteries. My money is that's total marketing bs.

I'm 60 also....

Speaking of clips and rattling, is there an official way to stow the jack, jack base, wheel chock and tire iron? Mine are just stick behind the spare wrapped in a couple of old towels. There's gotta be a better way.

I saw somewhere, I think this forum, where someone identified a pretty large 6v lead acid battery for a reasonable price. Can't recall the series number but I told myself that's be my next replacement battery.

I put the rings in the grooves dry, lube the piston and cylinder with crankcase oil when installing.

Quick call the authorities, there's a fuzzy old man in your back yard trying to steel your mower, hoist and a piece of firewood!

there's no mystery which keys get the most use on your keyboard

I use paper gaskets and put the thinnest layer I can of #2 on both sides. Yes the #2 is a pia when you get ready to do it again but I've had really good luck with this approach.

Is akimbo anything like cattywampus? ?‍?

I was engine braking recently and it kept jumping out of 2nd gear. I don't know if it's linkage trouble or trans. It would stay in 3rd or 1st without fail. I ended up just going into 1st and creeping down.

I really like the visor on the cream colored car. I've kicked around putting one on mine but I hadn't seen one I liked, most of the ones I've seen look like tone ones on the green or burgundy cars. I also like the little visors on the headlights but both windshield and headlight visors seem to draw a lot of criticism from some folks (not that I pay much attention to what others think about my stuff). Any idea what brand or type that one is?

I was afraid there was a horrible accident for a sec

is that experience talking?

did you put 74" front and back seats?

In top condition 47 brakes will lock up the tires. Put it back original and ensure everything is like new and I think you're good to go.

I'd still take you guys and your school of hard knocks training over the manual

I was blessed with an old man that was a Chrysler tech in 1950 (he is 84 years young), he and I have taken my old car apart and put it back together down to the last screw (which we lost). We did have a motors manual that was about 5 years too young for the car but its still pretty close, we also have the actual Mopar manual for this car on CD. Speaking of road trips I'm getting ready to set off on my first far from home trip in this car and having the laptop w/manual loaded is one of the things in my emergency kit, along with many spares and most of my tools. I've considered lowering the rear a touch, 300 lbs of tools in the trunk will do the trick .

I just took one of the old studs to the local parts store and matched them up as closely as possible (went with all right hand threads and new nuts) pressed them in and all is well.

I put a blank (piece of 16 gage steel) between my intake and exhaust manifolds, no heat riser valve here...

who needs a manual when we have you guys

I live in Knoxville so I'll haul the car down to Orlando on a trailer.

The previous owner and I came to agreement and this old truck is now mine, woot! Its on a truck headed cross country as we type.