LeRoy

My original is 64" long, do you recall its length?

Could be, in fact I hope that's the case. This screw is so small its got to be from a gauge or something similar. I hadn't planned to completely disassemble the speedometer, just a thorough clean and lube. When it wasn't apparent where it came from I dug in and took it all the way down. Its not a chore I'd take on again without good reason. There are a lot of small parts and I shake a little these days so its not as easy as it used to be. I also didn't want to hose it up and go on the search for a replacement. I'm headed to O'Reilly this am to see if I can match up a speedometer cable that's close enough. One thing that's pretty interesting was how easy it'd be to turn the miles back, nothing that a shady used car salesman couldn't do in an hour. Glad to have my high beam light back too, those wasps will build a nest anywhere. On a completely different note I was digging into why my fuel gauge suddenly went nuts. In the end one of the little wires in the sender had broken so I soldered it together on the side opposite the wiper. I think I'm back in business but will need to see when I visit the gas station next. It's an aftermarket sender and its a total pos. Replacement parts are nothing like the originals.

That's not a lot of compression, does it run ok?

Pretty strange, I completely disabled that speedometer and that screw didn't go in it anywhere.

Hey all Is anyone familiar with the innards of our speedometers? I took mine out today to clean and lube it and while fiddling around with it I hear a small rattle. A really small screw fell out while I was fooling with it. Does anyone know where this came from? On another note, who is the evil fiend that decided to use the bulb socket for the high beams to secure the top of the speedo? I fiddled with that for 10 minutes while I stood on my head before I figured it out. Aaaggh! I guess the upside to removing the high beam short was to funds the baby wasp mummy plugging the hole, guess the bulb wasn't burnt after all.

Where does "farm tight" fall into the torque spec? It was a commonly used term where I grew up (central Illinois) and I think it meant as tight as you can get it.

My car uses a Stromberg carb, even with the dashpot it's a pretty simple in the grans scheme of things. Looking at a completely disassembled quadrajet and its thirtyeleventy billion pieces compared to mine is a joy. I hope I never see another metering rod.

I'd bet it came stock with a bench seat, buckets won't look right in that cab at all.

I think someone with the actual tool should make some hardwood copies and sell to those of us that front have one....

There aren't any turn signals on that truck, I don't think that's safe!

Like NASCAR! do it for Dale

I find that the squirt needs to pretty robust. My thought process would be something like this: -With the engine not running does the stream spray against the opposite side of the throat and splash, even to the point of a little coming out the top of the carb? -Does the stream of gas start as soon as you move the throttle or is there a slight delay? The spring under the pump too strong? Spring on top too weak? -Is the leather good and soaked in fuel, I've even smeared a little light grease on the raw side of the leather a few days before assembly to ensure its fat and fluffy. -Is the acc pump body real smooth? I make a little reamer out of fine sandpaper and a piece of dowel mounted in a drill and hone the inside of the pump cylinder. Don't go wild just smooth things up a little. -Are the little passages from the pump to the throat completely clean? I think the last one I cleaned up had 3 little passages that come into the throat, only 1 was passing fuel initially. Run lots of brake cleaner then compressed air through them. -Are the jet and check ball in the bottom of the pump operating properly? If you mixed up the accelerator jet and the power valve jet you get a puny stream and a stumble off idle. The power valve gets the jet where the center poky (please excuse the use of techy lingo) sticks proud of the jet, the acc jet's poky thing is down inside the jet. Are you leaking a ton of air around the throttle shaft? If your shaft is loose you can kinda tune this out with the idle air needle while at idle but it causes a little stumble just off idle if its real leaky. That's a lotta ramble and may not even be related to your problem. Keep in mind that I don't know what I'm doing and you should take my advice with the appropriate caution. (I ignored the smoke for the first 30/45 min of run time, lots of stuff to burn out)

Put a little grease between the two pipes, it will help a great deal. I've been using a cheapie HF stand and it's pretty sketchy at times. The long handle swap is a major improvement.

That's strange, when I take off too many layers they just point and laugh uncontrollably. No cops just side cramps.?

That new nicop stuff is really easy to work with too. Also, remember to put the fittings on before you flare it, I've heard stories about folks that forgot.....

I don't know if you check the truck side of the forum but this was recently featured there in a couple of threads. Imagine that as a ramp truck or roll back with an early 50s dodge pickup on it's back. ❤️

It's a beautiful state and has some of the best weather. It's the policies and politics I can't get behind. I vacation there then run away fast.

To be honest I don't know where I'd go for the best climate. I think San Louis Obispo is supposed to have the best climate in the county but I can't imagine living in the land of fruits and nuts. I'm leaning more towards separate summer and winter homes. Saved all my life might as well enjoy it in retirement.

My way of thinking, while it's apart replace all wear parts.

I moved south to eliminate this kind of trouble along with snow, high heat bills, slippery roads etc. turns out Knoxville is not far enough South. Looking at Miami and Houston properties.

I had to use 2 arms for the girls I dated so I always had to pull over.?

goodness, thats a pretty carb

A lotta folks talk about what happens if you blow a line or wheel cylinder, I wonder how many have failed over time that resulted in an accident? I'd like to be safe and go to duals some day, in the mean time I'm keeping all components new and driving like I'm sitting in a 70 year old car/truck. I'd love it if a manufacturer (or supplier) put together a kit that would make the change straightforward and safe. My bigger safety concern at the moment is steering. I think I need to rebuild both steering boxes and I'm not sure that's all my trouble. My sedan has some bump steer that bring some serious pucker factor if it happens in just the wrong conditions. I put shocks on it recently and radials but that only helped a little. I think I've seen some folks talk about relocating shock mount points in the front. I have new king pins/bushings and tie rod ends but the balance of the front suspension is original (I think). I received the seatbelts for my sedan to be installed pretty soon, based on how that goes I'll add them to the pickup as well. I plan to let my kids ride in the sedan and I gotta do what I can to make that as safe as possible.

That truck would look great as a ramp truck with an old Mopar sitting on it. That ugly front end is so unique I'm falling in love with it. Larr, you aren't thinking of selling are you? I feel the urge to start a search.

Ken, Common sense aint so common anymore...