LeRoy

Your battery has the posh life! Carpeted shelf, don't let my cat see that pic. Looks like your oil fill/crank case vent cap is in backwards.

Mine has it! Just kidding, I looked and I dont have a hole like that under my back seat, 1947 d24.

Thanks Merle It is the original engine. The guy that restored the truck tried to make it as close to factory as possible, (purposely) putting the wrong sticker on it would surprise me. That said, the filter is plumbed just like my D24 so I'd guess it is a bypass. I should have started by saying I'm not at all familiar with this truck so I may ask a million really dumb questions about it. Maybe I should read the shop manual for it before I come here and start typing. I guess that's one benefit of starting with a car you got in cardboard boxes, you know every nut and bolt by the time you get done and you've had to read the manual closely several times.

My 50 b2b has a sticker on the filter housing that says "Chrysler full flow filter", I'd guess it's not a bypass/side stream filter?

Oh my, never heard of it

be sure to support the drum while pushing (deep well socket or piece of pipe), if they are a hard push you could bend the drum

The wheel studs will press out, the hub will press out of the drum as well. 2 steps, press the studs out first, flip the drum over and press out the hub.

Where were you with this advice the first time I got married?

My newest tractor is a 1941.

its easy to reverse the acc pump jet and the power jet, they are very similar.

I used duct tape to reupholster my arm rests, looks snazzy. When the adhesive starts to ooze out and gets on muh elbows I bet I don't think its nearly as good of an idea.

What sorta tractor project do you have going that's got hydraulic brakes?

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https://p15-d24.com/topic/59148-optima-battery-suddenly-too-weak-to-crank-on-48-desoto/?do=findComment&comment=636852 Now you have a link to some really questionable advice

I just realized if I stick my arm through the vent window I can reach the button and see the distributor at the same time. My rotor turns clockwise, so my way of thinking to retard the spark I'd turn the rotor clockwise as well. I think I found 2 examples in my search that said the opposite.

same on my stromburg

I think a month ago I put all the things I did to correct puny squirts in a carb post.

Asking about fluid drive oil will get quite a conversation started. I used universal hydraulic fluid from Tractor Supply and its working great 2000 miles in.

That's actually a pretty nice tool. I think mine is more of the $15 variety from 50 years ago. Any of them will work as long as you practice a little, its easy. Don't let anyone tell you a single flare is ok, make a double flare for brakes. if your old lines are in really good condition or if you need to make a quick get by flare use the existing stuff. The new NiCop stuff is great to use, wont rust and cheap. Also, as I've said here before, don't forget to put the fitting on before making your flare, ask me how I know (x3).

Hey all I recently timed my engine with vacuum, on a drive last night I noticed more ping than I'm comfortable with. I want to retard the timing just a dab but I realized I don't recall which direction the distributor turns. I did a quick search here and found a post that said "clockwise to advance counter clockwise to retard". I felt ok with that at first then it seemed backwards so I went to the manual and it says the opposite.... Does anyone know for sure or am I going to have to get over being lazy and hook up the timing light (I cant see the rotor turning from the starter button and I don't have a remote starter button).

Tex you might have better luck on the car side of the forum.

If you need any measurements I'd be happy to provide them add well. Just let me know the specific area or part.

hbpants, I also hold you responsible for the mouse house I just dug outta the rear seat cushion

I'm a little bit ashamed that it took me 20 minutes to take pictures and figure out how to get them under 3mb.