LeRoy

I had a weird finding today on my d24. I was flushing the radiator and when I started the engine to circulate the new coolant I noticed some water in the spark plug depressions bubbling. So I ran a little water in all 6 depressions and 3 of the 6 we're leaking, one was leaking to the point it blew most of the water out of the depression. When I checked the plugs they were all pretty tight. I could get maybe 1/16th of a turn on the ones that were leaking. There is just a very small amount of bubbling on 1 after retorquing. I guess when they advise to use a new gasket each time there's a reason why....

I've got a 47 2 door sedan and I dont have a panhard bar, I wonder if thats different between the years or number of doors?

Heya Art I went through a similar exercise a few weeks ago, my problem was the new seals were too large. When crossing from the old to new style there was a small measuring error.... In any case I'm all back together and so far no leaks. I do have a new clunk, it sounds like a dead body rolling around in the trunk when I corner, I adjusted end play to .012 by adding several shims but since reassembly things must have loosened up a bit. I guess I need to remeasure and possibly remove a couple of shims.

I think location has an awfully lot to do with the enjoyment level. I relocated to east TN a few years ago from Dallas, its much more pleasurable to drive anything here but especially the older cars. People here seem to enjoy seeing the older cars out on the road and give you plenty of space and time, in Dallas they saw you as a rolling roadblock and rage often set in.

I think its cool as heck to see so many folks jumping in to assist. ❤️ ok the heart is kinda girlie but you get the idea

I found my transmission leak today. As I mentioned earlier I assumed it was the front seal but after I got it apart the oil was coming from the end of the countrshaft where it extends through the case. I cut a new gasket and installed and all is good. I also replaced the orings on the shifter shafts as they were a little wet too. A few more leaks plugged up, woot. The fluid drive and output seal looked good. I also reinstalled the heat shield over the exhaust pipe next to the bell housing, that was a pia. Shocks and tie rod end boots are on the way. (It seems like every rubber part I've bought from Andy Burnbaum is failing, 3 full sets of tie rod boots, u joint boots and now 1 of the motor mounts. All only a few months old). Looking at tires next. I think I'll try the Bridgestone Ecopia EP02 in 195/80R16 if I can find them. A set costs approximately $550, much cheaper than Coker.

I finally tracked down the shake, it was the parking brake drum. It had several larger pieces broken out of it. I cut off the jagged edges with a cut off wheel and reinstalled... Good as new. Certainly not ideal but it's working until I find a replacement.

I was born in Frankfurt in the early 60's. Dad? ?

Hi Ken you commented on my project in another thread and I'm curious about the catch can system you mention. I have a 47 dodge with a zero pressure system. A regular cap and a little tower fitting in the center of the top of the radiator with an overflow hose to under the car. What kind of system is appropriate and would work on my set up? Thanks Andy

I hope I can get my car looking like yours in time. I'm thinking about tires right now. I like the old look tubeless radials with wide white walls from Coker but those are about 400 each. I'm also considering some modern radials I think I read where someone used 195r85 16s and they were close in size to the 6.00x16. I see you went with black walls and painted the wheels white, my wheels are body color with wide white walls currently. My dad had one of these in the early 50s and he said they ran black walls but had some covers that mimic wide white walls

I have to admit I made up a few new words when I finally read the side of a spray can and it said dark walnut. I may have even lost a little sleep that night but in the following weeks I really have come to like it ?

Ken I suspect(ed) the drive shaft/u joints but I flipped the shaft end for end and got the same result. I can also run at 55mph under light load and no shutter, come to a hill and it shakes pretty bad as soon as the load hits the drive line. It just feels like a jumpy clutch to me but this is the first time I've ever driven a 3 speed with a torque converter so I'm in new territory. While I had the drive shaft apart I measured the pins for center and got them to within 1 thousandth diff on each end. Modern Spicer type u joints would make me feel better and I think its about a $500 swap at a local drive line joint. I guess I could take the shaft to them to spin to see if its way out of balance? Thank you for your thoughts Andy

I need the rod that goes through the float cover and the linkage, I've the dashpot.

Hi All I've been lurking here a few years learning and researching as I tear down and rebuild a 1947 2 door sedan 3 speed w/fluid drive. I recently got the engine put back together and started and all the engine work seems to be working out well. Lots of oil pressure, no leaking and doesn't run hot. Challenges: U Joint balls didn't fit after several tries back and forth with supplier, I seem to have a strange size trunnion. I just pieced it back together and may switch to modern u joints. Rubber tie rod cups failed, the new joints came with rubber as they typically do and there were 4 spares in the bag as well. The ones on the new ends failed as soon as I tightened them up so off they came and the 4 spares were installed. Yesterday while under the car I see 2 of the spares have split. Ugh. The accelerator pump seems puny, works ok when engine is off and I give linkage a full stroke but while running and trying to increase rpm it stumbles (no sign of a shot of fuel in the throat). Have a carb kit on the way. I found a pic of a Stromberg BXVD-3 and it shows a dashpot rod sticking up through the lid of the float bowl and a linkage running to the bottom of the carb. I don't have the rod sticking through or the linkage, just the hole. I'll attach pics of the mine and the one with the linkage, any advice or opinions would be welcome. I've got a drive line shutter under heavy load, I'm thinking its the pressure plate, all I did was clean it up and reinstall (with new clutch plate). I dont know where else in the drive line it would be coming from. this was present before disassembly and remains. its got new trans fluid, new FD fluid, new clutch plate, new motor mounts front and rear, new diff fluid and pinion seal. I lost one set of the torque rod bearings in the clutch linkage so I made a set, all good except I think I've got the torque rod 'spring' installed upside down. its a piece of trapezoid shaped piece of flat steel that holds the inboard end of the torque rod ball in place, got to crawl under and flip that over pretty soon. The over center sprint is a treat.... I see a drip of oil coming from the front of the trans area, I need to investigate that and I hope its the front seal in the trans and not the FD or rear main seal. rear main seal is new but the others are old ones. The new gas tank leaked at all 3 potential places, the solder used during manufacture must have been junk or was installed by an incompetent. I blew the solder off and braized each of the fittings in place and we're all good to go now. One happy accident I made was the using the wrong paint color. I used the correct silver for the engine and planned to use satin 'black' spray cans for everything else. I got the all the engine accessories, linkages, trans, drive shaft, bell housing, and engine bay prepped and painted black. When I opened the garage door to admire my work in the sunlight I found the black had a strange hue to it, it was actually dark brown. after cussing myself for a few days I've decided the brown actually looks very nice, kinda retro............ I'm sure I'll have several questions as I get to the finer points of reassembly. Up next - rebuild carb, investigate drive line shutter, oil drip, rebuild wheel cylinders, rear axel seals replace window rubber, reupholster interior/headliner. Thanks for any advice, guidance and good natured critical feedback. Andy

I wondered if you could bump start a fluid drive, makes sense to me that you could.

I called and spoke with them about it and they refunded the money for them. I'm pleased they handled it this way, I'm not thrilled to be stuck with no parts.

I'm in the same boat, Bernbaum tried 3 times and they don't fit. I thought I had a goofy sized drive shaft and b&t u joints. I wish they'd have mentioned several others have had the same problem. I think I paid about $200 for ujoints that can't be used and they don't seem like refund is an option.

I recently attempted to hammer the u-joint pins in and out, no go. Then I tried to use a large vice to press them out and back in, pretty tough to get it done correctly. I'd have given anything to have a good press. Still don't have them back together as the replacements seem to be a hair too large for the flange to go over. Now have the engine out and disassembled, beginning the slow process of putting it back together. with a little luck and a big box of goodies from Andy Burnbaum it will run again some day.

Thank you Adam I wasn't necessarily thinking of a closed system. My thinking was thinking the vacuum above the carb would be enough to suck the fumes out of the crankcase (PCV) and let the fresh air come from the atmosphere via the filler cap. After reading your response and looking at the factory document it looks like the filtered air from the carb is the supply going into the filler tube and the PCV / manifold vacuum is the discharge. Makes sense now. Thank you, I appreciate the advice. Andy

Hi all I'm brand new to the world of old Dodge and much like Harvie I have some white smoke from the draft tube and oil filler breather on occasion. I'd like your thoughts and input as well. I've got even compression and good oil pressure so I'm in no hurry to open the engine up (I'm confident rings and rod bearings are in my future) Currently my car has a small paper filter in place of the original oil bath air cleaner. I'm planning to go back to the original air cleaner and I may install a PCV valve as a part of that project. My thoughts before reading this thread were to install a PCV valve in the draft tube and route the vacuum end into the air cleaner. I'd need to install a "PCV intake tube" in the lower section of the air cleaner and I see the factory method has you using that location as a vacuum source. My questions: Do you think it appropriate to use the oil filler breather as the air supply for the crankcase and a PCV valve in the draft tube as the air discharge from the crankcase? It looks like the factory recommends a different thought process on where to draw crankcase fumes from? Would I be better off to discharge the fumes ahead of the air cleaner 'element' or after it just above the carb throat? If you introduce the fumes above the carb does that eliminate the vacuum leak i'll be creating? Thanks in advance for any advice. Andy