CO54

Good find on the fuel pump!

Alright, this darn water tube has officially pissed me off! Been spraying it down with Blaster to try opening up the crud in the last 5-6" at the back. Weather has been crap, but I've been looking through various threads, links etc to get this pulled. I tried drilling a hole into the bottom of the tube to get the slide hammer hooked up, drill bit broke and fell down inside (joy) couldn't get it fished out either (hopefully the crud inside pulls it out in the end). I started digging for the second or third opening in the top of the tube to hook a fab'd tool in, no luck there either. This thing is really ticking me off and pushing the frustration limits. On another note, I decided to move things around from storage in the garage to outside. Want more room for working on various things since we're not ready for body work. Momma wants the engine to run first, so a stand/cart will be built to let it run at various times before it goes back into the frame.

1. For the brake caliper/pad installation you need to ensure the piston if fully retracted into the caliper, install pads into caliper and slide into position. It's a bit of a juggling act but it can be done. Then the fun of getting caliper slide bolts lined up. Keep us posted. 2. The wheel spacers, I know a few have chime in on this in the past few comments. I've been running 1.5" wheel spacers on my daily driver for 5-6 years with a 100k in that time. I haven't had any issues with them and like yours the spacer nut is longer than the stud. Unfortunately torquing the spacers did require putting the long pry bar between 2 studs and leveraging against the floor to get em tight. I just made sure to keep it as close to mounting surface as possible. The torque stick you mentioned are color coded and "set" to a certain torque spec to be used with the heavy duty air impacts. Personally not a fan after seeing em used and then checking it with a torque wrench to find it either too high, or too less.

Welcome, nice start! Eric

Great job!!!

Chin up, you'll fight through this!

Something is better than nothing, when it comes to throwing something together. Keep it moving.

Yes, replace axles!!!!! Good call.

My 2 cents. My truck got parked in '73 in an Arizona field and barn, until it was moved to a barn in Wyoming in 2008. When I tore mine down this year, I found the T-stat housing had rusted out and all the coolant passages where full of rust and grime. I've flushed the head a few times, and the block a few times to get as much as possible out. The machine shop will be doing an acid dip to kill it all internally. I will say though that when I pulled my head off for the 1st time, all my pistons, cylinder walls, and valves looked better than pictured above. The pistons have some carbon build up, the intake valves had a little too, and the exhaust where all stained white from leaded fuel. If I was in a pinch for a replacement engine to rebuild, I would probably pull the trigger on this one. Even with the drive, call it a weekend getaway.

A little Forney set up, it's only a 125, but it'll get the job done with flux-core wire. Had another set up years ago with the gas, and hated that I couldn't get a good bead if there was breeze with the garage open.

I know that any parts I don't need in the future, you probably already have, but I'd be happy to kick in what I can. Eric

Glad the Wrangler MC worked for you!!!! One to keep in mind moving forward when there are clearance issues. I'm still leaning towards the small booster/MC option for myself. The vacuum is the issue with my planning, and possible execution.

Great info, glad the weather let up for you. Started snowing here today again. Worked on resume for promotion, and tried out the new welder on some scrap to get back into the swing with it. Wasn't sheet metal, but still good practice for the welding needed in the future with spring perches, and floor pans.

On a second note? Is there any known alternate sources for a timing chain/gear set besides DCM?

Okay, so some tools arrived today from Amazon, managed to get the correct puller on the steering wheel, a few adjustments, and some torquing on it. Then, POP it came off. Steering gear is pulled from the cab! Steering wheel is hanging on the garage wall for time being. A couple side notes, if anyone comes across the steering wheel situation, let me know, the tool is yours to borrow. Plus lil man took 1st place in his wrestling tournament today! So it was a god day.

Yes, it's found a new home. Apologies. Eric

Thanks all, this manual has found a (soon to be) new home. I didn't want it sitting on a shelf here, when others could use it.

Thank goodness it's not mine, but someone got carried away with some flammables, and I don't think it was a cat stirring the pot.

Doubtful on the white cloud of smoke, but other stuff probably...... LOL

Any B4 Series owners out there that could use a "Free" shop manual, please PM me. I got it with my truck and finally ordered the correct one for my C series. Just want to pay it forward to anyone that may need it with their truck. Thanks. Sorry if I'm pushing the limits of something being free. Eric

A couple questions to answer your ratio question: Still running the 218? What is the final output of high gear in the T5? Do you live in a hilly area or at altitude? What are your average speeds going to be?

My My Catch of the Day, was washed down the driveway with the block flushing done 2 weeks ago, still have some trace evidence though. My tube appears to be intact for the most part from what can be seen looking down the center of it. Just gonna keep soaking it until I can get a aluminum bar from 48D's video.

That does help a bit, was that a 1" bar of aluminum?

Got some movement clear down the center of the tube, still pulling gunk out with the clearing rod I borrowed from work, managed to get some 1/2" bar stock down the sides and bottom of the tube, yes the BFH was required to get past the concrete junk inside. Upon closer inspection, there should be a little bit of material, then the 1st opening on the tube. Well from looking at the replacement below, mine does not have the material between the 1st hole and the end anymore. Could be more of a challenge getting it out........ Is it solid on the bottom all the way down? Are the pictured ports on what looks to be the top the only real places to grab this thing?

We just got word, they're kicking us outta work early today from weather, so I'll be heading home and tinkering on that darn tube. Gonna start running things down the sides to loosen things up.