CO54

When I pulled my front fenders and all components apart, I found what at one point was probably rubber body welting between the cowl and fenders. That was the only place I ran into anything other than metal on metal contact. Fortunately mine was an Arizona truck so I didn't run into anything but light surface rust/patina in there.

My wife and I watch "Forged in Fire" regularly on the History Channel. The episode from last week had, from what I can tell a 54-56 Dodge 5 Window truck in the finalist shop. It was the "Forged in Fear" episode. Just thought it was a great thing to see. The guy in finals was Jordan from NC if memory is right. Does anyone else watch the show, and catch it? Thanks. Eric

Can you drop any updates into your original door check repair post. I have a list of posts I follow for future issues, gotta keep all the info here straight. Thanks. Eric

The passenger side was pulled out from the door jamb and was missing, the driver side was bent and wouldn't operate properly so I had to cut it to get the door off.

You did a great write up on your door check retainer fix, my problem is I don't have either of the original door checks to modify the same way. So I'm looking for other options, possibly an older Jeep Wrangler simple strap with hooks.

Believe it or not, the 2 that are still there are still somewhat soft. I did find some pedal stops for an older Corvette that I'll probably order and trim to fit.

From what I can tell when compared to the passenger side, yes. 3 slots pre-punched in the firewall for either Left or Right Side drive. Have 2 of the 3. 3rd went flying today when I hit it with the grinder/wheel brush, now MIA.....

Has anyone found a lead on getting replacement pedal bump stops that go through the firewall? I was cleaning up the firewall and priming today when I hit one that shot out and is now lost. Please advise. Thanks. Eric.

I found this hidden Gem parked on the road coming out of base in Guernsey, WY last week. Maybe the owner is here, if so sorry I didn't get a chance to say Hi. Still a survivor, diamond sitting there.... Eric Yes, I blocked traffic to get pics., LOL. Gotta love small towns.....

I ordered my replacement tie rod ends from Rock Auto for a '54 Dodge Truck. Shows they have them now.

Ready for install, then it starts raining....

Gotta get MC 1st for dimensions. Will let you know kind sir. Already got the 3/16" line for everything.

Sorry pics are outta order, figure 'em out. LOL

I've been a slacker on posting, but not at getting parts. Have everything to complete the front disc conversion install, got my replacement rear axle. Dana 35, 3.73, disc from a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Got the pasg. floor board repaired with a trunk/floor pan kit from POR-15. Got all grease zerts replaced on the frame and greased the every living S*** out of them last weekend. This holiday weekend has been getting the new to me rear axle ready for install. Got some help from a friend with some good tools, and the help from my son to finish it off. If weather holds out tomorrow, son and I will get it in. 2nd note, a promotion at work always adds to the budget, and my wife agreed, LOL.

Congrats on your new adventures! Thanks for all the insight you've provided in the past! Eric

In reference to your body mounts above, the Left Front on my '54 only has an upper bushing, and shorter bolt. No steel post in the center of bushing. My service manual indicates this too. Just a thought?

Thanks Bill!!!!!

Finally ordered the new to me rear axle that will be swapped into the truck, '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dana/Spicer 35C, 3.73, disc brakes. Before buying an off the shelf Jeep manual for tear down/rebuild. I'm reaching out to see if anyone on the forum may have the book that could email the pages from the manual. I know youtube and google can do the trick, just an old school guy that likes paper to get greasy and read over n over again. The backing plates got beat up in transit, but they are still solid and look like they can be saved with some BFH help. Thanks in advance. Eric

Might find some helpful info in this build thread.

We replaced all but one rear seal under the rear output shaft. I believe it's the retainer for the lower shift rail of gears, didn't want to mess anything internally up.

I found the 4 speed gasket set from Vintage Power Wagons, was reasonable and all correct. They are cork gaskets, when I installed them I still applied a thin coat of RTV for my peace of mind. It actually worked out because my kids got extra credit in COVID schooling for doing it. I don't have any input on pulling the parking brake drum. Sorry.

Got the cab pulled off again, and put it back on the stand I'd made before. It was just tucked in storage under other parts and couldn't get a picture. Should work out ok with setting in on the back after I get the door reinforcements in.

I'm learning that! Mine is apparently a very early C series. My entire drive line was built between May '53 and September '53.

Nice looking truck, funny how some of your patina looks the same as mine around the windshield area.

I'll keep that in mind. Fortunately I'm what you'd call "vertically challenged" at 6'5" reaching certain things isn't the problem, it's folding into certain places for working on things. If memory is right when I removed the center section of hood, I pulled the 2 rear bolts while standing at the front of the truck. I appreciate everyone's input too.