CO54

You got yourself a Dana (Spicer) 44. Solid axle with a great supply of replacement and upgrade parts options. If you doing anything with internals, verify the spline count, there was a change in the count in the mid to late 90's. Are you going to use the parking brake on the trans or the rear axle?

The block and head will go to the machine shop, after I run them through the large parts washer at the Auto Craft Shop, it's 5 bucks per use. Wanna give it to em as clean as possible. From the engine serial number it's an early '54 so I suspect that some items carried over from '53. The VIN is also very low on the reference list from the CA plant.

Alright, today went sideways........ Water valve to the sink leaking in the master bathroom. Replaced the leaking cold and hot water valves, that project got done. With a little daylight left I pulled out the head assembly for some cleaning with the wire brush on the grinder. Thanks to conversations with bkahler, I may start a trend for the C series with putting in a brake booster set up for my MC, when the time comes. I didn't get measurement needed today, cuz my step son showed up out of the blue. Here are pics of some progress on the head assembly........ The surface rust is from running the hose through coolant ports on the head to flush it out and letting it sit on a towel for 2 weeks. Haven't got all the paint or carbon out yet, but was a good start......

Semi productive day with the Sunny and 48 here in CO. Helped a buddy work on his '95 Yota 4-runner, got the wife's punching bag hung up so she can beat it up. Then I pulled out the new pressure washer and tried it out on the oil pan that's soaked in water, dish soap, and degreaser for a week. Impressed with the outcome. Also sprayed down the cab interior with everything removed. Sorry no pic of the cab. All is good, gonna try out the new welder tomorrow, possibly tear into engine, as far as possible till the spring compressor arrives. Any input on timing chain play I posted previously?

You are correct with how the door hinges go into the A-pillar, pulled both doors off by removing the bolts, some love with a dead blow was required to get the hinge to pop free from the pillar on 3 hinges for me.

Technically yes, that's where the residual pressure valve will help, a proportioning valve wouldn't necessarily be needed in this set up.

Fit looks spot on!!!!!!

I'm shooting for 2021, truck ready or not. This year is Alaska. I'll work on the truck and getting wifey's approval though. I know she'll be ready when the truck is back up n running.

Hit quote button twice, sorry. LOL I haven't tried Evapo-rust yet, I tried a gallon of Metal Rescue and think I got shafted with a jug that was already open. Will look into the the Evapo-rust. Right now it's hot water, Dawn dishsoap and LA's Totally Awesome degreaser to breakup the dirt, grime etc on a bunch of misc parts.

Understood. It's parts soaking for me today. Have to let years of mud n dirt soak soften up to get to the grease. Lil man had tournament today, so it's a split day.

Fingers crossed.

From what I've read the Rusty Kit does add some to WMS, I haven't done mine yet, even with all parts sitting here. (engine running was wifey priority). Possible to put good deal on rear diff on hold, and do Rusty the recheck? The rear diff price is great, considering I'm looking at 200 for a Pull n Pay rear diff here. Just my side thoughts.

Are you using original wheels still? Don't they sit back pretty far inside the fender? What if you put in a 1" spacer upfront to compensate an option? Puts you at 64-1/4" F and 65" R, unless the 65" is before adapters? You started the adapter option so I'm looking at it for my front end to keep the original 5x5 I currently have before completing my Rusty Hope conversion. I miss read your post, are you able to add spacers to front and different wheel with more backspacing?

Your front is 65" or your original rear axle is 65"?

That will work then, yes.

Bolt pattern is off for a B series, would work on a B3C

2002 GC is a 5x5. 93-98 GC's are 5x4.5

Agreed! Plan B is the better option after that close inspection.

Success! Dinner, family time, and a BL with some wiggling.

Keep in mind the 1/4" to fab a proper mount for the change.

Thank you all for insight. I'll advise of progress!

The fan will slide over it, and simply be bolted to the pulley when re-installed on the new pump? If that's the case, I'm still gonna have to fight the hub to get the pulley off and reuse it.

But the pin still needs to be removed?

Yes, I was thinking the hub with the pin was part of the fan assembly on the 1/2" shaft. This pic helps, now for liberal spraying and kids wiggling.......

The pin is obviously going through the fan into the pump shaft, then out to the fan again. Looking at the internal condition of the pump, it's scrap. I only want the fan to use again moving forward. If oil and wiggling don't loosen the pin and it finally comes to drilling, could a small cotter pin work in place of a pin, or would it cause too much vibration? I'm also assuming that replacement water pumps have a hole in the shaft for the fan hub.