CO54

Provided you have a 1/2 ton, yes, 3/4 ton use a 5x5. There was some good references in the "51 B3B build after all these years" started by bkahler. Pages 9-11 if memory works correctly.

Jeep used the Dana 44 front and rear on, 93-98 Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and Wranglers, however during the same time they also used a Dana 35 rear with a Dana 30 front. These where all on a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. GC from 99-04 flipped to the Aluminum Dana 44 with 5 x 5 bolt pattern. Wranglers stayed on 5 x 4.5 until 2007, when they flipped to 5 x 5. Jeep stopped using Dana 35's with the end of 2006

Spicer (Dana) 44 is the way to go, just check years to ensure the right bolt pattern if coming off a Jeep.

Thanks, I definitely like it standing on end, it's easier to get a look and access to it.

Yes, I deserved that one.....

Got the valves pulled, cam shaft out, and pulled the block off the stand, stood it vertically and started filling the water distribution tube with vinegar to try to break up the crusty rust inside. Didn't get pics with hands covered in grease. Will keep moving forward. Thanks. Eric

I can concur with 150# to 160# weight. Got the bare block pulled from the engine stand yesterday with help from the wifey. I can move it around when it's standing up relatively easily on my own.

I would agree with you, that looks to be about where mine are located, the only difference is I have 2 mounting bolts on the top, and 1 on the bottom if memory is right. Sorry, I haven't been able to get any pics this week. Kids have had a busy week of practices etc, and it's always dark when things finally start to wind down. Will try this weekend.

The holes you pointed out on the frame could have been where the original shock mount was, is there another hole under the bed crossmember that isn't visible? From zooming in on my photos, they appear to have 2 bolts on the top frame rail, then a bracket running vertically down to the lower frame rail, where I think it has 1 more bolt.

Looks like the exhaust was more important, and the shocks were an after thought.....

Check out some sites like Speedwaymotors.com, jegs.com, summitracing.com they may have a shock mount kit that would make it easier to make the upper shock mount in the correct location, possibly some ideas on getting the lower one in a more correct position too.

The shocks actually mount to the underside of the axle similar to the B-series. I can't find a good clear picture right now, but I'll get some tonight hopefully. It's a goofy bracket with the shock mount coming off, and the spring u-bolts securing on the underside.

I've got some pics I can email you, work network won't let me into my cloud storage to put on the site. If you need more, I'll do what I can. Just shoot me a pm with email. Thanks. Eric

Thanks. Now to pull it off, might find the scale too. LOL

So, I'm almost down to a short block, once the valves and cam come out the last thing will be the water distribution tube. I've made some attempts with no luck. I don't have the cherry picker right now, so I'm curious if the boys and I can pull if off the stand and set it down? Really just looking for a rough idea on the weight. I want to get it stood on the rear end so I can get the tube filled with penetrating oil and keep trying to get it removed. Thanks in advance. Eric

No idea on the torque rating.....

Cylinder walls look great! When ready for the machine shop, and get the results, I'm hoping for a honing and new rings/bearings on the original pistons. Wifey n I both agree to salvage as much original as possible. Even with the whole 98 hp it's rated at. Lol

Another decent day of weather in CO, while it's January.......Tore down the block as far as possible with the tools on hand, then proceeded to clean the outside of the block up after flushing the cooling system for an hour plus. Total of 7 freeze plugs on my block, had the 5 on the side pulled cuz I forgot about the rear before mounting on the the engine stand. Found another plug on the front, under a felt gasket between the block and mounting plate. Date stamp on the block is 1/53, and the head is 8/53. Happy with the progress. Parts got pulled, labeled, and bagged. Yes, I took pics for future reference of certain parts. The pistons have a good amount of carbon build up, all the rings on each piston move freely. I'm curious about something to soak the pistons in to get the carbon to break up and possibly degrease at the same time?????? Thanks! Today was a good follow up for the Birthday weekend too.

Not sure how much this helps, but here's a picture of my '54 tailgate and hinge. It doesn't look there's any bump down in the tubing where the hinge goes. If needed I'll try to get a pic of the tailgate alone since it's in storage right now.

I would kill for a 4-post lift, but I'll get one after getting kids through school and onto life. The next house will have the separate shop from the house.

$6 for non-lift bay, $8 for lift bay

97 GC Diff would have the 5x4.5, some where aluminum centers.

Jeep used the Dana 44 front and rear on, 93-98 Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and Wranglers, however during the same time they also used a Dana 35 rear with a Dana 30 front. These where all on a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. GC from 99-04 flipped to the Aluminum Dana 44 with 5 x 5 bolt pattern. Wranglers stayed on 5 x 4.5 until 2007, when they flipped to 5 x 5. Jeep stopped using Dana 35's with the end of 2006

Overnight charge, then hourly rates start when they open at noon.

A perk of my work location. There are various facilities that I have access too. The Auto Craft Shop required a safety test to get a card to use it, they have 25-30 bays, most with lifts, various large tools that can be used or rented, 2 paint booths, tire machines, alignment machine etc. You just pay for hourly bay rental, and certain additional services/tools. I'll be doing the block washing my self by loading into washer.