CO54

Alright, it's been awhile since and update. After learning that the vinegar rust removal works amazing on the head the block, and few other misc parts, I'm getting ready to install the freeze plugs before priming the block as a preventive. I've done TONS of research on the forum for best practice with this,, and found the Permatex #2 is a great option, but also doing JB Weld...... I've got those 2, plus the black adhesive sealant maker to use..... Looking for some more insight. JB Weld....(permanent, PITA for any future problems), Permatex #2 .......(never worked with "non hardening" before. How reliable?), Black adhesive sealant maker......(I see as a possible "middle of the road" between the 2 previously mentioned.) Advise??? Please and thank you. Once in primer the block will head out to the machine shop for measuring, honing...... Yes, I'm a "flippies guy" when I can..... Stop laughing at the first pic of my toes. LOL

https://www.vintageautogarage.com/ <------ 12v conversion kits, voltage reducers, alternators, other electronic parts

Nice! With what looks like original gauges, are you running a 12v Generator?

1 of a pair, correct. Front and rear bed stands to keep fenders off ground? Chin up bars for Elf on the Shelf competitions?

Thanks! I'm not crazy from looking at my diagram either. Weather is supposed to be nicer this weekend for the school project/credit to happen. I ended up going through Vintage Power Wagons. PN# TSGSS24, Complete Synchro Trans Seal and Gasket Set for vehicle type D, '56-71 M37, (Early) was $28.50 for all parts needed, plus some. Very happy. Thank you again.

The gaskets arrived today. Now for the dumb question, last week I pulled the parking brake rear flange off, and found it to have 2 gaskets...... With the new gasket set arriving I'm seeing a few that look to need have a double gasket provided. Why would there be a double gasket without a shim? Seems like a "double gasket" would be a highly potential leak???? Please advise... feeling a bit dumbfounded before doing a tranny update with my daughter to cover her auto shop credits.....

Managed to get it sitting almost level, I can deal with it, as a better work platform. Could only hit 3 of the 4 mounting holes with my engine stand. Got an email out Vintage Power Wagons on gasket set with my case number, still waiting on a reply.

I love the search on this forum, found this thread with great info after cleaning up my trans today and finding the casting number and date for my "54. Scraping and wire brush to discover the info........ Now for the rebuild/refresh. Totally stealing the engine stand idea too. LOL Figure I can get the Transmission done with the Engine heading to machine shop. Thanks. Eric

Fresh pics of my exposed rear frame spring mounting points. Front: Rear: Overall:

The bigger hammer definitely did the trick on this one!!!!!

Hate to say it, but now I don't feel so bad with finding as much grease, oil, dirt, and gunk stuck all over my drive line and frame. it's been a slow but steady clean up process on all the parts. Good Luck, and keep up the good work. Eric

The shorter one ended up pulling through on the first set of holes around #2/#3 cylinders, used it as a template and cut the longer one at about 26" overall. Was able to get a solid hook on the holes back around #4/#5. We got some small movement with the 2# slide hammer, then called in a favor to brother in-law and borrowed his 13# slide. Saved both tools for future though.

I haven't done measurements on my 54 yet, but a buddy here showed me a universal 7" booster/ Dual MC combo that was available on Amazon, Jegs, Speedway Motors, to name a few. In theory it could fit under the cab using original brake pedal set up. Only thing I found was the need to add a vacuum pump to power the booster. It requires 17-20 in/lbs of vacuum and the flat 6 only puts out 9-12 at idle if memory is right.

Roland, Welcome, that's the beauty of this site. Sharing, knowledge, and badgering when needed. LOL. Eric

YAHTZEE! Got the booger out today, 5-6 hits with a 13# slide hammer but it's out and mounted to the wall as a trophy! Thanks for the insight, now to talk with machine shop tomorrow about trading my labor for shop labor while i'm on admin leave from work. Thanks again!!! WE GOT OVER A HURDLE!!!!!! Yes, I saved the original head gasket as a reminder.......... it's unique. Thanks again. Eric

I came across this vendor that makes various styles and sizes of replacement u-bolts. Pretty reasonable pricing too. Hope it helps. https://www.generalspringkc.com/Default.asp Eric

Going to take the advice of reducing hook size and go again. Just trying to settle things around the house after a stepson was the victim of a hit-n-run accident last night that totaled the car. Police wouldn't respond due to no injuries and city is on "cold reporting" for accidents. Had to get it towed back to the house this morning. Everyone that was in the car is 100% okay too. Gotta love the curve balls of life. Eric

Will be seeing about hot tanking on Monday, my cheap resource to a hot tank was closed down last week, so I'm working option B with giving "labor for labor" with the machine shop I'll be using for my rebuild.

Alight the battle continues with the water tube. I got a tool fab'd up after finding I could only get back into the block with it 6-8"s, I found what I believe to be a solid hook into the water tube. After 2 days of yanking on this with the slide hammer, I haven't seen a bit of movement. I'm now curious if I'm actually going through an opening and hooking the inside of the block on something or is the topside of the block tube channel smooth all the way down? Any advice?

You are right about the cool factor with the transmission e-brake.

I recall reading somewhere on the forum, that the original pull handle was difficult to get the leverage needed to set the jeep parking brake really good. I could be wrong, and if so hopefully someone will chime in. I'm still back and forth on which parking brake system I'll be using. I had a couple broken springs in mine when it came apart, but otherwise it looked good.

Dave, Good point I forgot about that, considering I'll always lay old ones on the floor to match new ones up, and you are right that they can be side specific but I don't remember them ever being marked.

Looks great, keep up the diligence.....

Good find on the fuel pump!

Alright, this darn water tube has officially pissed me off! Been spraying it down with Blaster to try opening up the crud in the last 5-6" at the back. Weather has been crap, but I've been looking through various threads, links etc to get this pulled. I tried drilling a hole into the bottom of the tube to get the slide hammer hooked up, drill bit broke and fell down inside (joy) couldn't get it fished out either (hopefully the crud inside pulls it out in the end). I started digging for the second or third opening in the top of the tube to hook a fab'd tool in, no luck there either. This thing is really ticking me off and pushing the frustration limits. On another note, I decided to move things around from storage in the garage to outside. Want more room for working on various things since we're not ready for body work. Momma wants the engine to run first, so a stand/cart will be built to let it run at various times before it goes back into the frame.