CO54

Great idea!!!! They don't go back to school till Wednesday.

When you say hub you are talking about between pulley and fan correct? Doesn't that create the possibility of warping the fan blade assembly? Heat is another option after I get more MAP gas for the the quick blue torch. The tips of pin are already below the outside of the fan assembly.

Keep it up Kev!!!!! Great work!!!!

The pin does go straight through to other side of fan, with all bolts removed the fan can be locked against the vise and pulley will turn. Fan has no play in wiggling, however haven't struck anything but the punch on the pin. I"ll give it some more spray and try wiggling and working it to see if it loosens up. Last ditch is drill it???

I've done a forum search with no luck. So I can only assume that I have a factory installed water pump, that is completely shot and will need replacement. I've removed all the fan blade bolts, there is 1 water pump mounting bolt that can't be removed until the fan is removed. I do plan on re-using the original fan blade with a new water pump being installed. What have folks done to remove the pictured "retaining pin" that goes through the fan and the water pump shaft? Do new pumps have the same retaining pin option? I've tried spraying for days and repeatedly trying to knock loose with a BFH and punch. No movement......... If it has to be drilled it will, just worried about being able to get a clear shot with the fan rivets and blades. Input?

Here's the link to the MC that 59bisquik used: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Power-Manual-Master-Cylinder-1-Inch-Bore,4316.html FWIW. Eric

From what I've heard with from other's on the forum, the Cherokee MC's work well. I wasn't aware of the big difference in sizes.

I know there has been a lot of use with the Jeep MC's, from doing some research and some input from another forum member, I found a Corvette style that will work, provided the bore stroke is the same, a mounting plate still needs to be fab'd. 77-82 Vette, RockAuto PN# MC39052, this option is more original looking with a quick glance. Just my 2 cents. Eric

Steering wheel is still an issue, but it will come in time.

maok, I had the doors completely closed with the clamps, however here's the update below. Both doors are off!!!!! Pulled the hinge bolts pictured, had to use the the BFH on the hinge to get some rust free on the passenger side(no damage), but both pulled out of slots. The door check on passenger side was already missing so no big deal, door check on driver side was still present. Cut the door check itself, will get back to grinding the retaining rivet out later. The day of tune up of for a co-worker, and re-enforcing the the cab base/stand ate up today. It's BL and Ibuprofen time now.

Brad, Looks similar to what I'm looking at. Well time to get moving on other things, before getting into the truck. Thanks all. Eric

From feeling around inside, it seems that the bolts go directly through the A-pillar into the hinge. No nut can be felt on the inside, giving me the impression the hinge is the threaded nut attachment point.

Didn't post update from last night because we decided to have family cards night. I lost by the way. Got home from work, and was looking at the pin, gave an attempt at another pop or movement, got nothing. Wifey was out with me and asked what was going on, so I pulled the clamp and showed her. With what had been mentioned above, about it possibly being threaded in, I pulled out the vice grips and tried to unscrew the bottom side of pin. It snapped off. Her and I discussed the other options, and looks like the hinges will be getting pulled from the A-pillar, to fight the pins with the doors off the truck. For some reason, I recall others mentioning that there are some shims or parts inside the A-pillar that can fall into a void when the hinges are pulled???? From feeling around inside the A-pillar, it feels like the bolts simply go into the hinge on the '54's. Will be getting into it later today and post results, after doing a tune-up on a coworkers vehicle this morning. Thanks Eric

E and 9, thanks for the insight. Quick update, I got home last night and still have clamps on both upper hinges. I could get access to the driver side, gave the clamp another good twist and got a solid popping sound from it. Tightened up some more and left it. Will continue when I get home tonight. At least there seems to be some movement. Also back and forth on the air hammer idea, just afraid of really mushrooming the bottom of pin with that option.

Have kept up with the oil and trying to add pressure to clamps today....... worked on little things. I'll keep all posted.

All 4 pins on both sides come out at least 1/2", driver upper more from threads and mirror mount, none of the pins are mushroomed. Been trying the pressure with clamp method, before the beating with BFH method. The heating method, then beating maybe required, just going to use more patience right now, work on other little odds n ends. Thanks.

Been using PB, will try the smacking it option too.

I've done a lot of searching the forum, and reading up on other's experience in getting these door hinges off. I've been spraying the hinges for a bit, put on 2 8" C-clamps last night with a socket over the top of the pin, cranked down last night as hard as possible. Came out today, tried snugging em up again, and neither would budge. Pulled the clamps off to spray more and noticed the top pin issue. When the door swings open the top of the pin doesn't move, but the bottom of the pin does. I marked the bottom of the pin threads with a sharpie to try to highlight the movement. Anyone ever seen this before? Video won't link in from OneDrive. Thoughts? Thanks, Eric

Ok, you have a point. Behave with the paint..... Yeah, I forgot from previous pics that you have load bearing toys that can apply pressure both up and down. I agree with the front end loader option.

Compress the rear end? Redneck ideas get some serious ratchet straps going around the axle and frame, snug away, then put all the weight you can find in the shop on board or that welding/build table for your engine on it to compress till the shock appears to bottom out? Grab kids, adults what ever to add as needed if not enough???? I'd look at Kaiserwillys.com or 4wd.com if I wanted to add bump stops to the frame, old CJ's , MB's, Trucks or Wagons.

Looks great!!! I do have a question about the plug that has been discussed on the left side of the #6 plug(cuz I missed something)? I'm looking at my head and seeing the same plug, what's it's purpose? Why does it need to removed, cleared etc?

Perfect, Thank you!!

Glad you did. Now I know what to look for....

With the head already off, along with all other bolt on items, is there a way to measure the stroke and get the info needed from the deck as a reference? Is there a difference in the connecting rod or the crank that could be identified with a PN# for example? What would be the difference in the stroke length?

Got all the existing glass pulled today. HD, it is tomorrow for a few things to include some 6" C-clamps for the door pins. 3" doesn't cut it. Found more issues that had been learned by a Radar when it comes to the roof and drip rail. Items to be taken care of as things move along.