SteveR

Yep you're right?

Keith, do you have a part number for the front seal on my 37 Plymouth from Cat? I have a Cat dealer 37 miles away compared to across the pond.

I would replace the outer bearing race as well. These you have to knock out with a drift and hammer. Make sure you pack the bearing with grease before installing it. To hand pack take a lump of grease in the palm of your hand then scrape grease into the bearing at the wide part of the bearing until you see grease coming from the smaller end of the bearing. Here is a video

To find the bearing size measure the ID, OD and Width of the bearing. If it has metal sides it is called 'shielded' (Z or ZZ) if rubber then it is called, 'Sealed' (R or 2 RS) ZZ shielded would mean that there are shields on both sides. 2 RS is 2 rubber seals. Main bearing companies are SKF, FAG, RHP, INA, TIMKEN, NTN, KOYO, NSK. These are quality bearings and what you want in your transmission. Unmarked bearings are cheap, Chinese are garbage. a 209 bearing will have an ID of 45mm, OD of 85mm and a width of 19mm. So a 209 ZZ would have 2 metal shields. If only 1 shield is needed then you can remove the one side. If you do not have the bearing then measure the OD of the shaft it fits on. You can then work out the bearing OD and Width by measuring where the bearing sits. Hope this helps

Look to see if the oil has a metallic look to it

I take it that the Chrysler Museum of Art is not the same thing, or what about Walter P. Chrysler Museum?

I found this on the internet. I just sent in my information. I hope I get something back. https://www.chryslerclub.org/PDF files/Chrysler_Historical_Build_Record_Request.pdf

As a teenager in the 60s, my Dad had a 1960 Valiant with a 3-speed on the floor. The shifter knob was a plain off-white pale blue knob. When my brother and I started to drive we quickly changed that knob to a more personised one. That was always something a person would do to personalize their car on a budget.

Are the cloth pins optional or are they a form of harmonic balancer to reduce the amplitude of the torsional vibration peaks which derives from a linear application of an intransigent pipeline to an acceptable level? Or there just there to keep the silver thingy in place.

I had problems with rough running and found rust in my bowl. there was no filter in the fuel line at all. I have an electric fuel pump so I place a filter between the tank and pump and another one before the carb, It's been 3 years since I did this, So far so good.

It might be the seal. My windows do not close either. I will take some photos and show you what I have Steve

When I met my wife in 1992 she had 2 girls ages 6 & 4. After dating Sherry for a while I asked her girls birthdays. She said March 20 & and the other the 22nd. This struck me and I said do you know my birthday? Sherry replied she had no way of knowing it. I said it's March 21. So now we have 3 birthdays in a row, March 20,21,& 22. The oldest daughter married a wonderful man. His birthday is March 23. March is an expensive Month. Actually, those 4 days are expensive.

I found this. Hope it helps https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4639/~/what-size-drill-bit-do-i-need-to-install-new-wheel-studs%3F#:~:text=Drill Size for Press-In Wheel Studs&text=If your axle hub material,smaller than the knurl diameter.

Continuity testers are ok but I prefer to use a multi-meter. That way you can see what voltage you are getting where a continuity tester will not. You can buy Mulit-Meters cheaply. Not only that but a meter can be used in the house as well to check voltage and resistance in fuses. https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/digital-clamp-meter-96308.html This one will check amperage as well.

Could you not make one using piano wire?

I'm not sure what other states are like but in Minnesota when there is a Tornado Warning these sirens go off. My Father-in-law went through WW2 in London and Coventry. One day the sky turned black, television programming went to weather only and we had a tornado warning. They were over here for a visit when the sirens went off. It scared the bejeebers out of them.

I have sent John an e-mail asking if he knows of where to get these. He is a very busy man and it may take some time before he gets back to me. As soon as he does I will let you know. Here is my car when it came to the UK and what it looks like now.

Are you talking about the metal that goes around the wing window? I do not have any but I believe the restorer of this car in Landidno might know where to get them as mine were missing when the car came over.

On May 28-29 my Wife and I took our Miss Daisy to Eastnor Castle. It was a small event for cars but there were about 10 Steam Traction Engines there as well. We had a load of people come and talk to us about our car. Most people have never even heard of a Plymouth and many think the body style is from the 50s here in England. The highlight came when an elderly woman said to me, "I'm blind. Can you tell me what your car looks like"? I told her it was cream in color and then realized she may not know what cream looks like. She was a frail lady around 80 years old and a bit unsteady on her feet. I took her hand and showed her the car from the roof down the opened front windshield then along the long hood. I had her step on the running board and all along the side of the car. I then asked her if she would like to sit inside. She responded that she did not want to put me out. I assured her she was not. She got in the back seat and was amazed at how comfortable it was and how much room there was. The person she came with took a picture of her and she had the biggest smile on her face. She thanked me about 4 times for taking the time to show her our car. I don't know her name but she made both my wife's and my day. Of the 20 cars at this show, ours was the only one she came to. I hope we made her day as well. Eastnor Castle Miss Daisy leaving Eastnor Castle's Main Gate

So I guess what I am hearing to my original question is, Yes it is ok to leave your GL1 oil with the small amount of assembly lube in it without changing the oil as you would do in a rebuilt engine.

So a GL1 oil is not recommended?

1st and reverse gears were worn as usual but nothing broken and my funds were not there to replace them. So far it has not posed a problem. At some point, this tranny had been gone through. It also was from a junkyard with a big '39 DOD__' painted on the side in yellow. My car is a 37. Inside the stop plates were broken and the stop rings were all worn out. In trying to find the parts for this I found that the stop rings and stop plates were from a 1940/41 transmission.

Thanks for the replys I only used enough assembly lube to hold the needle bearings in place. The oil that I used is Miller Oil 90 GL1. So far I have had no problems. I just don't want any in the future. The joy of removing the tranny and figuring out what I had was bad enough but putting it all back together on the drive wasn't much fun and the clutch release lever was, well had it not been for my wife inside the car with another set of eyes it would still be sitting there.

In reading a few posts on rebuilt engines, I have a question: I rebuilt my 39 transmission late last year. I used assembly lube for the needle bearings. Do I now have to change the oil now that it is up and running? The new parts I had to change were the bearings, main shaft, 2 brass synchro rings, and 3 stop pins

When I had to rebuild my transmission I needed a main shaft, stop rings and shifting plates. I found that mopar pro was by far the most expensive. needless to say, I did not use them. I also found that Andy Birnbaum's shipping costs to the UK were $85 flat rate. Even if the part you needed was $5 you still had to pay $85 shipping. I try not to use him either.