SteveR

When I was 16 in 1969 my dad told me to change the brakes shoes on his 1960 Valiant. The driver's side went ok but I struggled to get the lugs off on the passenger side. I finally with brute strength got the first bolt off and proceeded to do the next only to have the same problem so again with brute strength I got that one off. I went to my dad and asked if they were hard to loosen. He said sometimes and then asked, why? I said because I snapped in half 2 lugs. He then said what way did you turn it? I said the normal way, counter-clockwise. He wasn't happy but informed me they were L.H. threads

In looking at the wiring diagram for a 1940 Plymouth there is no sol or button for the starter. Perhaps this was added later or because it was an import was this changed? You might want to check the resistance of the sol coil. If you have a relay and you press your button you should get 6vdc to the relay coil. then on the output contacts you should get 6vdc. This will go to your sol on the motor to engage the starter. How close are you to Worcester england?

I just clicked on it myself and yep it was corrupted. I don't go on those sites.

In digging a little bit I found this on this forum Hubcap Red Lettering Touchup Paint FlashBuddy said; In the process of refreshing a collection of 1950 Dodge dog dish hubcaps. Does anybody know what color of red was originally used? I used a color meter and came up with hex code #A83928 and or RGB 168 57 40. A quick trip to the hobby shop netted me a close equivalent - Model Master 2732 Chrysler Engine Red. I've been unable to find it in a spray can. Perhaps if I had a color code of some kind I could get a spray can mixed up? also from Plymouthyadams: Chrysler red engine paint is not hard to find....https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2062857.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xchrysler+engine+paint%2C+red.TRS0&_nkw=chrysler+engine+paint%2C+red&_sacat=0

One thing you have to consider is red is one of the first colors to fade in the sun. As I remember the color was bright red but not a dark red. The more blue there is in the red the less it fades. If it is an orange color now I would have thought it was normal red color.

Yes my gearbox is full of oil and does not leak. This 1/16" turn was done with the side of my screwdriver in the slot, not straight on, so I could not torque it down. My estimate of 1/16 is an approximation. It didn't seem like it moved much if at all. with wheels off the ground there is no binding when turning the wheels or the steering wheel. When driving and making a turn the wheel will return to center when I let go. What I am wondering is the play side to side of the steering wheel is this due to end play in the steering column? I did try to pull and push on the SW to see if there was any endplay but did not feel any.

No offence taken and I understand and appreciate your intent and honesty. ? Yes my gearbox is full of oil and does not leak

This 3" play I am talking about is turning the steering wheel left to right before the wheels start to turn. I have no play in or out. When I adjusted the screw it only moved 1/16". When I drive down the road I am not wandering all over it. If I take the wheel and turn it I get a small movement in the steering arm before the steering wheel turns, about 1/2" You are right Los It does need to be looked at as I can not say what I can not see inside the box.

I did have my wife turn the steering wheel while I watched the arm off the box. There is play there. I attempted to adjust the screw on the inside and that helped tighten up the steering but I believe I may have to take apart the steering box. We have a wedding to do in October so I am reluctant to do this job before that.

My steering wheel is off-set. It is not the original wheel so was it put on wrongly? I do have an excess of play turning the steering wheel side to side of about 3". I have also had both from wheels off the ground and turned the wheels back and forth and have not seen any play. Likewise, I have had the wheels on the ground and looked for play and do not see any. My wear is on the passenger wheel only on the inside.

Ok I had some time and checked the Camber of my wheels. Both are at 0 deg. We have been haveing rain here and as I do not have a garage I'm not a diehard who likes working in the rain if I don't have to. My next step will be checking play in the king pin. Any other ideas?

If you are grinding in reverse that indicates your input shaft is still turning. The first suspect is the clutch fully disengaging. I am wondering if the journal of your input shaft is stuck in the bush of the engine. I do not remember is 1st gear also grinding even if a little.

Thanks I'll give that a try. Smart phone? What's that? oh you mean a Mobil Phone. I don't have one of those either. I'm just a little bit more advanced than 2 cans and a piece of string.

I have checked my bearings and they seem ok. How do I check the king pins and bush?

It would appear that in checking my alignment, camber, caster, king pins I can not do this myself but need the garage and its specialized equipment. Is this the case?

on my 37 Plymouth, I am getting inside wear in my front right tire. The left side is wearing fine. Is this a toe-in/out problem or a camber or? If there is an alignment problem can I do it myself or can a garage do this here in England? It appears that garages here mostly service European cars

Yep, "Don't take any wooden nickles". I often heard this expression as a boy in the 50-60s

Beautiful ride!

When I first got my 37 Plymouth with a 230 3 speed 4.11 gears It sounded like it was screaming at 45mph. I have owned this now for 5 years and have gotten used to the engine. I prefer to run her at 45-50mph. I know she will comfortably go faster but the suspension and the lack of any seat belts tell me depression is the better part of Valar.

Yep you're right?

Keith, do you have a part number for the front seal on my 37 Plymouth from Cat? I have a Cat dealer 37 miles away compared to across the pond.

I would replace the outer bearing race as well. These you have to knock out with a drift and hammer. Make sure you pack the bearing with grease before installing it. To hand pack take a lump of grease in the palm of your hand then scrape grease into the bearing at the wide part of the bearing until you see grease coming from the smaller end of the bearing. Here is a video

To find the bearing size measure the ID, OD and Width of the bearing. If it has metal sides it is called 'shielded' (Z or ZZ) if rubber then it is called, 'Sealed' (R or 2 RS) ZZ shielded would mean that there are shields on both sides. 2 RS is 2 rubber seals. Main bearing companies are SKF, FAG, RHP, INA, TIMKEN, NTN, KOYO, NSK. These are quality bearings and what you want in your transmission. Unmarked bearings are cheap, Chinese are garbage. a 209 bearing will have an ID of 45mm, OD of 85mm and a width of 19mm. So a 209 ZZ would have 2 metal shields. If only 1 shield is needed then you can remove the one side. If you do not have the bearing then measure the OD of the shaft it fits on. You can then work out the bearing OD and Width by measuring where the bearing sits. Hope this helps

Look to see if the oil has a metallic look to it

I take it that the Chrysler Museum of Art is not the same thing, or what about Walter P. Chrysler Museum?