SteveR

Plymouth Adams I have no Idea how many amps I'm drawing my meter only goes to 10 ohms. I just adjusted it until it sounded somewhat correct.

An update. I have removed the horn and adjusted it. I am sure the neighbors were very happy with me as it took some time in adjusting and trying it and and trying it for about 1/2 hour. I then was under the car jacking it up to clean the grease from the brakes (my seal is gone and the only place I can get one is in the US). I noticed some holes in the cross member and lo and behold 2 of them line up with my horn. You can actually see the outline of where the bracket went. I guess I can safety say this horn is the original. The next question, which I probably never know is, why did someone unbolt the horn and leave it loose? Thanks for all you guys help.

Thanks Andy, I love the look of your car! You really did a good job. It all seems to tie in together, old + new. Some old cars are done up so modern it detracts from the car. Course that's my opinion. The only problem I can see is the steering is on the wrong side. LOL Thanks for your help. Steve

Thank Andy that helps. Could you tell me if the workings are a solenoid with a metal diaphragm for the sound. Nice engine! Do you have a Picture of the rest of your car?

Sorry that 1936-41 Plymouth

I have the service manual for the Plymouth 1926-41. There is no mention of the horn in there except for the wiring. Will the above manual tell me what horn is suppose to be in my car?

I have a 1937 Plymouth Deluxe 6. I have owned it now for 1 year. I noticed between the radiator and front grill a horn loose. I eventually got it out and appears to be a klaxon type. Currently I have a modern horn to pass the testing here in England. I am wondering what type horn was used in my 1937 Plymouth. Also is there a repair manual. The diaphragm looks bent in 2 directions. Thank guys!

I looked high and low for Autolite and AC spark plugs here in England and came up with nothing unless I want to buy from USA and pay huge freight costs. I can get the NGK here. So I am stuck with those. The car industry in England is geared to European modern cars or older English cars. Tell them you have a 1937 Plymouth and they say right away, 'No we don't stock anything for you.' I seem to remember in Minnesota, 10,000 Auto Part store would say let me check around. Even if it was an English Mini or MG. That doesn't happen here. I have ruled out Champion, thanks to Plymouthy Adam's humor reminding me about them. It reminded me of my 20's and my 1965 Slant 6 Barracuda where several new plugs went a foul. This is my 1st classic car and I now am faced with learning old school all over again with the help of a bunch of great guys on this forum who give of their time and experience. Thanks Guys!

Thanks =o)

Heat range was my next question. This engine is stock and looks like it has never been cracked. My compression is around 70-90psi

Thanks for the info. Somewhere in the back of my pea brain I recollect champion went bad at some time., But couldn't remember. What would you recommend?

I have a 1950-52 Dodge engine in my 37 Plymouth that has NGKBR6s spark plugs in it. They now need changing but I have always used Champion in my other vehicles and would like to change. Daisy has been changed over to 12 vdc. What is the correct size for my engine?

I am getting grease from the front wheel bearing onto the brake shoes. The seal is in place but I am wondering what the correct size should be? Also what could I use to clean the shoes? I have heard that gas makes the grease/oil seep into the pads?

sser2 Thank you. It is greatly appreciated.

I found someone to weld my hub but now it needs turning. What would be the tolerance as to the maximum that can be turned?

Robert Horne Sorry for being so late with a response. I live in England, there doesn't seem to be many spare parts for my Plymouth

As a kid growing up in Minnesota in the 50's and 60's we didn't see many of these. But when we did they were a real head turner.

Thank, You PT and John. I have ordered a Puller. Let the fun begin =o)

Man trying to find a puller in the UK is like looking for hens teeth unless you want to spend over £100.

PT81Jan Your drawing is a great help. Thank you. It appears the my breakage is on the bend. In welding would it be advisable to grind down the small tab, center the hub and then weld? I imagine I will need a puller to get the hub off the shaft. Everything in England is geared to modern cars. I did look at a puller from Amazon but it said it was for front wheel drive and the dimensions looks like it would be too small. To me it looks like from center hub to center bolt hole is 2 1/4 inches.

Now that the Easter holidays are past, Time to get to work. Here is a photos of my LH rear brake drum the separation is all the way around.

I will try to get some Pictures of the drum. I was wondering about welding. I have a small mig welder and was wondering if that would work, but I thought that you can't weld cast Iron. I am assuming the drum and hub are cast iron. The cost of the drum/hub was reconditioned at $350 on ebay. Unfortunately I don't believe I am going to find one here in England. PT81Jan Mine is almost like the one you have pictured and separated in the same place.

Yesterday as I was driving I heard a loud bang from the rear of my car. Upon inspection I found the lest rear brake drum had separated from the hub. Can this be repaired or welded or is replacement required? I see the cost of a new Drum is around $350. Is there an alternative?

Reg Evans, That looks great! When you get the rest of the dash done send in a pic, I'm sure we all would love to see the transformation.

Have you thought of Hydro Dipping. I do like the look of the original dash , But that's only my opinion and there pretty much like belly buttons. Here is a picture of my 37 Plymouth dash in burr walnut. It was Hydro Dipped along with the window surrounds by the previous owned.