Bryan

Has a lot of interesting info on bearings. You can't just compare an old engine to a large modern engine and say bearing clearances are the same. Dependent on bearing journal size. Also precision of journal. BUT, I compared two like engines (old and new) and they are similar. https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/local-media-north-america/pdfs-&-thumbnails/catalogs-and-literature/engine-bearings/eb-20-18.pdf

Another crazy question..yesterday I was in the garage, concrete floors were wet like I had rain seeping in. Most of the surface. It was humid outside. Well, it rained again last night so this morning I opened the doors to air it out. Low humidity outside. The floors are completely dry.. Do concrete floors absorb that much humidity from the air to appear soaking we?

The .03, .04 markings were me using a dial gauge after smoothing the area all the way round with fine sandpaper.

As my 1992 Dodge Dakota?

How did you jack up the car? Nothing slipped and bumped the drive shaft? Don't see how shocks could do that. No clumps of mud on it? Maybe you had a bad universal (trunnion) and somehow jacking the car up pulled it, but unlikely.

Is he wanting a ring & pinion gear set or an entire housing and contents? If the gear set wouldn't it have to match up with the pinion bearings. Like on mine the front and rear pinion bearings are 37-1950 various cars. Gasket is up to 1962

Least I'll know what a fairly new one is supposed to look like when I get mine out. Plus your bellhousing face is dry..no transmission leaks.

Glad you got it fixed. The reason I was asking so much was to try and isolate the problem. But again, glad you found it. Now help me with my stuck valve ?.

Mine is a range of years 1946-56. It has Fords, Chevys, Dodges, etc. Probably would be the same for yours except maybe pre 40s to 50s. NOT the Foreign manual they have on Ebay. Probably this one but would try to get it cheaper. My car book has truck parts even though it says just cars on cover. HOLLANDER INTERCHANGE PARTS MANUAL BOOK HOLANDER 1920-1948 CATALOGUE FINDER | eBay

What gauge battery cables did you use to replace the old? 6V or 12V system? Did you add the ground straps and have the starter rebuilt at the same time? Did it work properly or drag after the new cables? After the starter rebuild - was the same or did it help? I've had to jump off my step-mother's car sitting unused with a very dead battery in it..I had to rev the engine up in my truck and let it charge for a while before her car would even try to start. If the battery is dead, and you had your Subaru connected, it might not start. Had it happen before. I your battery is over 5 years old I would replace it. I've also had my 2015 Corolla just without warning not start due to a dead battery..one day good, next day bad.

Maybe Ebay or Facebook marketplace. Might want to get a Hollander Interchange book to see what fits.

That's what happened to me when I popped my exhaust manifold in half. Would love to keep it original, but Ebay prices for another possibly weak manifold turned me off. Spend another $100 and get a new part.

Ordered another valve spring compressor today. Did trial fit of dual headers. Worked on getting a stuck valve out. Rest of my Rock Auto wheel cylinders came in. If I get all the valves out and pull the crank pulley off I'll be ready to pull the engine out.

It's almost out but run out of bolts.. ? Six different combinations of bolts, washers, nuts...I started with a large nut on its side, then used a larger one. Got the stem up flush with the bottom of the guide and started using bolts with stem up, smaller than the guide. Stacking nuts under bolt heads, etc. Turning the motor, starting over, stacking. Started to get dark and windy here and ran out of bolts, didn't feel like rummaging in the tool shed anymore. Got a good 1 1 /2" sticking out and a pair of vise grips still can't twist it out.

Probably wouldn't matter.. looks like a lot more than that sticking out on the original..

Was test fitting my dual Langdon headers to see how they fit and if any problems with fuel pump. For me, 1 to 1 1/2" is a little too close. Reckon I'll go the 6V electric fuel pump route. Didn't want to find out after I got my motor back months from now. Anyway, measured all the way back to rear bumper. Distance between header flange and block is 3 1/2" front, 4 1/2" rear. The downpipe up front probably needs to go about 5-6" down to a curve since I'm going to join both exhausts into a single Y. Rear looks to be 7- 7 1/2" down. Between the header pipe centers is abt 16 1/4". Looks like I have 5 1/2" between frame and bellhousing. About 9-10" length to put the Y in. Distance between floor and top of cross member is 4 1/2". It's 28" from center of cross member to front of heat shield, or 30" if you measure from front lip of cross member. Heat shield is 20" L and 9" wide. The flat area (some angle iron piece on side) for a muffler is 29" long. From that angle piece to center of axle is 30" (or to hanger is 28 1/2"). Tried measuring from front of cross member lip at bellhousing to same hanger - measures 5ft. From bottom side edge of heat shield to bottom of frame is 3 3/4". From rear of axle to end of bumper is 47".

screws | McMaster-Carr

Are you sure it's 7/16 - 24 ? Can't find that pitch in McMaster-Carr or my thread checker. Only 7/16-14. But they don't have that bolt with cotter pin hole. Maybe a little longer bolt with a lock washer and a 2nd nut? Or loctite? Don't think I could drill a small hole in a bolt side. Oops - see that you mean 3/8..

That minute amount of oil must have not been enough to last sitting for 30 yrs. Got enough stuck valves. ?

Thanks for the heads up on DOT 5. I'll be re-doing the entire brake system when I send my motor out for overhaul. Getting all the parts. Does anybody know of any special procedures I need for storing the wheel cylinders & MC? Might be a few months before I get it together. On the stuck wheel cylinders, for $30 a piece I'd just replace them with new. Peace of mind.

The side holes look like they were not drilled thru.

This one..

Seems like you can remove the bell housing (clutch cover pan) without removing FD. Step 3.

Now I don't know. Crankshaft to FD are studs. They could be fun. Why in h..l didn't they use bolts?

Yeah, if the plates are stuck sounds like you'd have to remove the FD from crankshaft (para 5) and somehow pull the whole assembly out. Question is, does taking the clutch off expose some bolts or nuts you have to hold on the FD. Let me look at diagram.