Bryan

Not sure. Not sure how he was doing that, but if you have the 12V isolated only for starting I reckon the only thing that could be damaged is the starter and solenoid. As you say, if you only apply 12V momentarily there's less chance of damage.

Understand that, but how does the splash get to the valve area? Am I correct that it only has the 2 larger holes in the front and rear?

Finding out on Youtube. This video between 2:00 - 3:00 minutes. You can see it at one point seeping from the front large hole but nowhere else. He only has the front cover open. Flathead Live Tappet Action & Valve Set Performance Gains - YouTube

Do you think it's splash into the larger holes on both ends of the valve train? The front hole is from the timing chain area. The small row of holes is covered by the lifter/tappets. On picture shows how they are lubricated by the reservoirs. How does oil get to them and the valve stems?

With needing only 21, you can cut the heads off 4 and use them as guides to align the gasket and head..

Hey, I remember that spring ! The one I left tightened and stripped 2 of the mounting bolts while screwing them out with tension on them.

If the rubber hoses have been on there several years I would replace them anyway. I have the same bleeder as you, my brother and I were using it on a Saturn. It should work the same on both sides. I also saw a video that hose clamps can sometimes be too tight and restrict the hose. One thing I learned, but not applicable here, that on any wheel cylinder or caliper, the bleeder should be on top. That's why some parts are designated Right and Left. Glad these cars don't have powered brake pumps with individual circuits like that Saturn.

I would think since the solenoid is only used for starting it would need to be the same voltage as for starting. They are rather cheap. More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SS544A (rockauto.com) Don't know how to tell by looking at them which is which.

It worked well once I fixed it. Set to my spring width I shouldn't ever have to change it again. Just wish the guy selling it would have noticed.

Tried to determine how valve tappets and guides are oiled. Most searches for oiling gets into the crankshaft and camshaft mods. Don't want to discuss that. Wondering how the valve guides get oil, and where does the tappet reservoirs get their oil? On each end of the valve area there is a larger hole, one near the timing chain, one near the rear draft tube. I circled them in red in my pictures. How does oil flow into the reservoirs? How do the upper guides get oiled? I see Chrysler Tech diagrams for how oil is sprayed from underneath by the rod holes (last picture), but nothing about oiling above in the valve area.

Reckon I'll try that on Thursday. Doing something else tomorrow. I'll have to turn the adjuster back up and give it a go. I have a long breaker bar on the large crank nut. It won't hurt the camshaft or anything?

Pictures for today..only 2 valves removed.

Got it fixed..removed 2 valves. One is being a pain. But it's going.

##$%%@@@** - great antique valve spring compressor from Ebay has screw stripped out. Went to use it today and found it. Can probably fix it but irritating.

Just imagine how you would have to name the site...?

Don't know. Maybe the number designation is the basic model, with the names for the fancy trims. Mine is a d-24 that comes in Deluxe and Custom.

Haven't run across any yet.

Dang, that took a while. Was trying to order various bolts for ones that were rusted or stripped, plus my motor mount and guide bolts. Started with McMaster-Carr, got up to $90 and stopped. Started looking around and went with Bolt Depot at $44. Bolt Depot lets you order individual bolts. McMaster-Carr has a better selection, will have to grind 3 Bolt Depot bolts from 3" L to 2 3/4".

1949 Chevrolet Wool Cloth PW-29 – SMS Auto Fabrics Went through several firms..BTY, etc. No luck.

That looks like Junkers72 picture at the beginning of your post. Brown & 3 grays.

Rubber strips..

Other end would go to the battery ground terminal like Sam's since it's so close. When you think of it, there aren't many other electrical devices on the vehicle. Lights and horn up front, solenoid, horn relay, regulator and brake switch near battery area, items in dash area, at the rear lights and fuel sender. I reckon you could use the long frame box running the length of the vehicle as a grounding point, as long as the straps connection had a good shiny metal connection and dielectric grease on it. Fenders have rubber strips separating panels for squeak control, and I have removed tons of rusty bolts. Reckon besides going to the battery I could have another small strap from terminal to frame.

Yeah, I actually do better when it's about 80F up to 90F. Get cold easily now that I'm older (64). Get chilled easily and then sick. Doesn't take but 60F and partly cloudy. Sun comes out, work a sweat up, cloud cover and wind comes, then poof, sick the next day. I thought it would be funny the differences though. Some winters when I was in S Korea (a lot younger) after a long cold spell 40F would feel warm. Matter of getting used to it.

Thanks for letting me know. It's been sitting for about 30 yrs in a barn, since the motor started knocking and I was overseas a long time. Starting the process of getting it running. The rear end is probably empty. When I get the pinion seal & housing gasket replaced (hoping nothing else is wrong) I'll check it. Gives me hope it's okay. Never heard any rear end problems when it was running but that was in the late 70s - early 80s.

I'm going to run it near the lighting terminal on the driver's side vertical panel near the horn in front where the radiator front faces. It will ground the lights and the fender also just to make sure anything else using the body as a ground is well grounded. I figure the ground cable attached to the motor will handle the starter. Yeah, could have been 8 AWG, a few dollars more made it 4 AWG.