Bryan

I was managing construction projects overseas with the Corps of Engineers. Always understaffed and with management not consistently supporting you in decisions. My nerves couldn't have taken that for another 10 years. Getting a building blown out from under us in a terrorist attack didn't help. Screwed us up for about 3 years. Could have come back from Israel and worked in design review, but we already had bought a house and land in SC. Why pay rent with a free place to stay? Decided to retire and glad I did.

Hmmmm - TEC1-12704 12V 37W Heatsink Thermoelectric Cooler Cooling Peltier Plate Module - Walmart.com 2 Pieces XH-W3001 Digital LED Temperature Controller Module Digital Thermostat Switch with Waterproof Probe Programmable Heating Cooling Electronic Thermostat Range from -50? to 110? (12V 10A 120W): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Or maybe one of these with the above switch. https://www.amazon.com/heatsink-fan/s?k=heatsink+fan Imagine that attached to the side of your carb ? Even have a 6V model. Amazon.com: CNBTR 20mm x 20mm White TES1-4902 Semiconductor 6V 2A Tablet Cooling Chip Peltier : Electronics

Got to looking into the manual. Some of the springs were not on the end of the bendix. Just 2 tiny springs & pins in the side collar which held collar around the grooved shaft.

I just assumed they wouldn't have parts for old cars. Online I can compare prices easier.

Today had to go shopping with the wife. Later I threaded the internal bypass hole and made a plug for it. Another post.

Looks easy, but I took that screw out about 15 times to work on it. Didn't want to grind with it in the block. I'm going to find if I kept my old water pump also, and see if I can switch the rear plate with the new one I have. Need to find or make a gasket.

The tap I bought went quickly. I didn't like the plug I bought with an allen head fitting, the allen hole was too deep and it looked like about 1/8" metal thickness to the back. So I adapted a bolt. Started with a grinder, then dremel, then a hand file and sandpaper on a glass block to finish it.

With a job there's a lot to think about. Pay is important but happiness also. What kind of retirement pension, health insurance they offer is to consider. I know you said you don't want to move, but if I can ask, what would keep you from moving? Family, friends and church? Housing sales are booming, selling a house wouldn't be a problem. Finding a reasonable one in the new place would be a problem. Some small towns have limited jobs, and in some areas high utilities and taxes. A relative of my wife lives in Louisiana. She was saying there was a town there that had $400-500 electricity bills for most people. Utility had a monopoly and in cahoots with local gov't. Maybe moving would be better to a larger town with more opportunities. Where I was raised was a small town in north central SC that only had cotton mills up to the 70s. The owner (Close & Col Springs) kept all other business out. When the cotton mill industry collapsed our town almost went under. Took just in the last 20-25 years to get straightened out. People still commute an hour to Charlotte NC to work.

Go to Vintage Power Wagons. That's where I got mine. Should be 1/2" or 5/8". Measure yours. Just get the plunger. Best to call them up and check shipping before ordering. Calling works faster than their form.

Great news. Glad you got it out. They aren't expensive, would measure diameter and get a new one.

Well, I thought the starter would be in better shape than the generator. Nope. It was working 30 yrs ago. Tore it down. End bushing was shattered. The shaft had little cuts on it. When I took the bendix off looks like the armature shaft was pretty worn underneath, but not on the end. I got to adding parts up, bendix $65 at AB, bushings, already had bought brushes for $10, then shipping. Said heck with it. Rock Auto had a remanufactured Remy for about $143 ($119 with $25 core charge). Plus $15 shipping. Yeah yeah save the Remy is terrible comments. I'll keep my old starter, maybe replace the shattered bushing and put it back together as a back up. Anyway here are pics for the starter tear down.

I always measured the space it had to go in max Lx W X H usually the battery tray bottom with height being the most important. Then noted which way the + and - terminals had to be oriented and got the most cranking amps in that size I could find. My brother liked to use marine batteries.

Looking at Andy Bernbaums $65 starter bendix for a 48 Dodge and Rock Auto's $85 bendix WVE 2K1089 for a 51-52 Dodge. I like the look of the gear on the RA bendix. According to Hollander Exchange book they should fit. Wonder if anybody has experience on these as far as quality?

About got screwed over by CarID site. They have rotors, distributor caps, etc for our cars.. Prices look great, no shipping, until you hit the Paypal authorization then it tried to add $36 shipping on an $18 order. I hit the cancel button on PayPal and backed out.

Probably the technology back then didn't let them make it like the new ones. Or they found a cheaper way to make them.

On mine it seems like grease is gone but still rust in the water passages. Considering the DIY electrolysis method in a large plastic container with a charger, or soaking it in some slight acid solution (vinegar, radiator flush, etc). Are you sending it off for cleaning or machine work?

Maybe use something like a slide hammer on the bolt for pulling axle races & bearings.

Bought the tap. Finding a straight plug took a while. Amazon, Ebay etc kept showing NPT plugs that I didn't want. Finally found this. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hillman-socket-set-screw-1-2-in-13-x-1-2-in?cm_vc=-10005

Finally found the picture I was hunting for. Behind the D tube.

As others have mentioned, you might want to tap the edges of the distribution tube to make it fit better in the hole. Makes the water go thru it instead of around. If you're really feeling good, pull the tube and clean it if you're this far along.

Things not to do, lugging the engine, revving before letting the engine warm up, over-revving the engine in general, letting it idle with the fluid drive engaged and foot off the clutch, riding the clutch, short trips constantly.

I'm learning to lay back and take a short nap and relax before I really start getting p-ssed off. Sometimes after resting I go systematically thru the problem again.

After cracking 2 oil galley plugs and spending a week trying to get the crank nut off, I feel for you...

Be careful and don't damage the inside surfaces. Heat around the valve on the outside and not in the hole. Maybe get a can of electronics duster (compressed air). It gets super cold if you shake it. That's why the instructions say don't shake. Heat the surrounding metal up and spray that into the hole to cool the valve body. Only other thing I found is use an impact wrench on LOW first. Use it on low a few times first, maybe heat the body up and try a little higher setting. That really helped with my crank nut when brute force would not.