Bryan

Valve work today..didn't feel safe doing more.

Deburred the rest of the crankcase. Worked on the ports near the valves, again. Trying to use Evaporust just on the lower part of the water jacket. The rest was pretty clean..

Yesterday I checked the new starter dimensions against the original to make sure it would fit. Just need to test. Since I was pooped from traveling that morning, I just cleaned the garage up and sorted/cleaned up tools and put unneeded ones back in the work shed. I also collected the valve parts from the old block and set them aside. Really even on the new block I only need to keep the valve spring retainers. I bought new valves, springs, guides and clips. Now that it's warmed up heading outside to finish engine work.

But glad to see you back. ? Hope all is going as well as it can.

The wiper rebuilders would have a lively advertisement in Germany.

There was a while I wasn't active. Having too many issues with getting the step-son launched and running. Good kid but just let everything and everyone distract him. Things finally got settled down to where I could start on the car.

Might get some work done today. Had to go out of town to meet the brother.

They are a pain in the butt if rusted in. Need some kind of strong hook and slide hammer.

Cleaned side oil passages to cam bearings and oil relief valve passages. Cold outside in SC. Going back out after hot tea break to do a few measurements. Wife came out in the yard to see a turtle coming up from the pond. Used my Arkansas stone checking for high spots on the bottom of the engine.

If I were the wild type I'd probably use the existing pump body, take out the impeller, and hook some kind of electric booster pump to the input of the body. It amazes me that they only have a constant RPM electric motor for pumps. Electric bicycle hall effect motors have a throttle. Seems like you could rig something that would respond to increased motor RPM. More RPM input, electric motor increases speed. I wouldn't do that but thinking about it is fun. ?

Now that I think about it, you're right. The water would continue to absorb heat on its trip back to the front. It goes in the D tube, and even at the rear is pulled towards the Thermostat in the front.

Yep, some people on that site were calling it. Read the article. The best transfer would be trying to get the water as cold as possible next to the hot surface. Plus a rough surface (larger area) and turbulent flow. Only place you cool the water is the radiator. In a radiator it'd be opposite than the motor block. The cooler air temperature flowing thru the fins, cooling the metal. The hot water passing heat to the metal. It would be delta T of the water and the fins.

Water Pumps in Automotive Engine Coolant Systems - ASE Certification Training HQ | ASE Certification Training HQ Says about 33 to 125 GPM. Edit: From other sites this is too high. Can a water pump have too high a gpm rating? - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion Added: https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/fuel-cooling-ignition-tech/tech-feature-what-you-should-know-about-electric-water-pumps/ Seeing other discussions about electric pumps having a constant flow rate, vs mechanical which increase at RPM. Electric pumps being rated at no back pressure unlike mechanical. Booster pumps causing issues with flow of stock pump if lower output. HP vs needed cooling. Etc

And remember the temperature gauge is connected at the back of the engine, which is the hottest point. Would be interesting to have an extra gauge connected at the middle or front.

Agree on that. If one flared the distribution tube out and had it where it just touched the back of the pump plate in would insure that all of the water goes into the tube. I probably should have explained more but been outside a while and I'm beat.

Today I measured my original head gasket that I took off my 48 motor, a Victor V-1066-C gasket, copper on both sides, hard to tell what's in the middle. Anyway it measured .0620 to .0635".

Today finished chasing the bottom pan threads, and was cleaning the oil passages to the mains with a rat tail file. Not enlarging them, just enough to get the crud out and make it slick. Was doing other stuff and didn't get to the oil passages to the cam bearings. With that I'll have to be REAL careful. Those passages have threads at the beginning.

Today besides other things I took the old plate off my original water pump since it doesn't have the internal bypass hole. I like redundancy. I'm going to swap it to the new water pump. ANYWAY, I mounted the plate to the front of the engine to see how everything lines up. The water pump distribution tube hole is slightly smaller than the block hole. The other unknown small hole is half covered by a ledge at the edge of the block hole. Looks like someone didn't like the narrow width of metal near the top of the block

That's how my old 1948 Dodge block ended up being a 1949 Plymouth block. The previous owner before my father let it freeze a year after he bought it, and cracked the block. Probably forgot to change the pure water out from summer.

I'm also looking for anything that might have caused the piston skirt to chip. That's why I was smoothing down those notches in the bottom of the cylinders. I might put the crank and a test piston without rings in both front and back to see how the deck height is looking and what might have been hitting. Should have done this in the beginning but didn't think, and it was a gooey mess.

Moglich 100km/std am Autobahn is besser als 160km/std. Ich bin noch am arbeit mit meine. Viele Grusse aus SC!

Has the engine been rebuilt and water passages cleaned out? I found a lot of sticky sand in my block.

What about with a non-pressurized standard radiator? Little too close to 212F?

Now that we're on the subject, there are 195F thermostats out there, above 180F. Any opinion on using these?

With ethanol in the gas you can't really read the porcelain for mixture. It's the top of the ring above the threads.