keithb7

Ethanol free gas is 5 mins from the house. It's 94 octane tho and not needed, but she likes it. Here today that fuel is about $4.65 USD per gallon. Another option is to buy Marine grade fuel. It too is ethanol free. It's 92 octane and marked with dye. The reason is, it has no road tax applied to it. It's for boats! A little cheaper than the 94 octane. However they won't let us pump it into our cars. It would have to be pumped into jerry cans and taken away. Then poured into to the car's gas tank at home. PITA really, to save a little money. They claim, if the mounties dip your car's fuel tank and see dyed fuel, you get a nice, not so little fine. Not that that's a deterrent for me. I don't think any cop would dip the tank of a vintage car out cruising.

I have only tried the OD one time for about 3-4 mins on a local stretch of hiway. I hit about 60 mph. The engine makes good torque at low RPM, so it feels nice and responsive at higher speeds with the OD. I'm 6'1" and fit nicely in the car. The seat is adjustable and I have it all the way back. Sitting in it, my body and seat position, if feels just like my 38 Plymouth. The seat is comfortable. Leg room feels good. I have no complaints about ergonomics. Mind you, I have not driven it on a long road trip. It's been another 50 hour work week. It really cuts in on car wrenching time. Every day I do a little more on the car. I have lots more work to do to get the car up to my expectations. By that I mean, tweaked, serviced, leaving few doubts in my mind. That will likely take a several more weeks yet. So far I have been doing some repairs, then driving. Tuning and testing. I've had the car 8 days now so far I have: Pulled front wheels, inspected brakes and bearings. Confirmed concentric. Minor adjustment made. Repacked wheel bearings. Removed battery, found cloth covering starting to erode and some cable oxidation. Covered the area of the cable to protect it from possible ground contact for now. Will make brand new cables soon. Filed points and set dwell. Set timing. Cleaned spark plugs, rotor and cap. Adjusted accelerator pump to middle position. Set idle A/F mixture screw. Pulled floor pans. Adjusted clutch. Topped up master cylinder. Greased pedal and clutch linkage. Tested fuel pressure. Removed and rebuilt fuel pressure regulator and set to 4.5 psi. Changed engine oil. Put in 10W30. Washed the car, scrubbed the whitewalls and put 120 miles on the car touring around town. Showed it off to a few friends. Documented a lot of my work on video. Edited and uploaded 3 You Tube videos to share with my subscribers. Not a bad week. But still much more to do. I literally put little to no time into anything else this week. Work, sleep, a little personal hygiene, eat, car... That's it. Life's good!

Yes, every time I go out I meet a few new people. That part of the hobby is fantastic. People, strangers, coming up and talking, asking about the old car. Young and old, people of all ages put their phones down, smile and wave. I like it. I like to see the brief joy that my old cars bring to people when they see it. Sure, I may be experiencing a little pride of ownership, but for me it's more about other people being into my hobby. Just a thumbs up or a wave sure feels good. Cruising in an old, well liked car or truck is good for your soul. The nostalgia part of it keeps me feeling great while behind the wheel too.

Above is entire carrier assy. This one below is ring gear and pinion set interchangeability.

I have an early Hollander interchange. That same carrier assy fits many models. I don’t see a listing for the various gear ratios though. All 35-41 Plyms with hypoid gears it seems, interchange.

Some people swap out complete rear axle assemblies to get the diff and brakes they want. The rear end you have is a probably 3rd member. It all comes out together. There is no axle cover on the back off the axle housing to expose the diff. Sedans generally had taller gear ratios than coupes. Coupes carried less weight, luggage and passengers. Complete 3rd members are generally available for sale used. Are you confident your ‘35 car can push a 3.73 or so rear end to 60 mph? Does the car have a 201 engine? Could be an issue.

Anyone that is able to project these films, I am hoping you'll please consider sharing them on You Tube. This is fantastic historical media that documents these old Mopars. Digital conversion preserves it from any further deterioration. Also it allows everyone to view and enjoy it! Its a simple as propping up an iphone. Cropping it up a little to fit the projector screen. Record, upload and share! Thanks.

I filed and set the points at 38 degrees dwell. I set the timing. I found the problem, and also learned more about the fuel pressure regulator. Earlier I mentioned that my regulator adjustment bolt was leaking fuel. I resealed it. I know now that I was just applying a band aide. I figured out that If fuel leaks out the adjustment bolt, the diaphragm is leaking. Then adjusting the bolt will have no effect on system pressure. There’s so much to learn... I bought a rebuild kit. I put in a new diaphragm and spring. No leaks and I got my fuel pressure down to 3.5-4 psi. It appears to me that the rubber was rotted. I suspect its a 90’s era regulator? Possibly a victim of ethanol? Test drive results so far are positive. I will get into the float and have a look there too, soon. Another note, there is no fine particulate fuel filter in the fuel system. I think I’ll add one. Metal housing type.

I just checked. I am at 82% of my limit. Yikes. I'm just a rookie around here compared to the experienced members.When I run out I suppose I could start a new account. Call it keithb8 or something and use the same ID photo. Active members here who continuously help others, and post images, ride reports, data, etc. are attracting all the other members to come back here. Restricting the most active members, by limiting their uploads has a negative effect doesn't it? This forum is a give and take. Someone invests money to host, set up and maintain this forum. All the members here benefit from that tremendously. It goes the other way too I think. By the members posting pics, data, sharing their knowledge, it makes for a great site. Have a look at the top member's reputations. Those people keep us coming back here. Then the forum owners can sell advertising. If you dig down, I think that's really what the investment is all about for the site owner. Advertising revenue. Could the site owner maybe set up some kind if scale for data allowance? As your community reputation grows, so does your data limit? The more people who like your posts, that shows how much a member is contributing to the overall success of this forum. Those members could be rewarded with more data? For example you hit 1000 reputation you get xx data storage. You hit 2000 you get xx. data storage. Does a new member start out with the max amount that all members get?

Maybe its time for an update: I came here, finding this place when I was seeking support for my initial vintage Mopar purchase. My 1953 Chrysler. I fell in love with the simplicity, design and engineering of the old cars. I very much enjoy this site and the people who are members here. One car became not enough. I bought another. A 1938 Plymouth P6 sedan. Two years later that was not enough. I bought my 1938 Chrysler Royal coupe. I shall be content for a while. I hope. This site, although a great resource, also spurns the desire to own more Mopars. I am guilty, but I too am very happy. What a great hobby this is.

Thanks TJ. It's fun. I'll just keep it real and be myself. If natural, unscripted mistakes works for my viewers I'll just keep making more videos. We all screw up. I try to take it lightly and move on. I picked up new points and a condenser today. Off to grab micro-wrenches now. Found some!

Are any exhaust valve clearances too tight? Valve stems get hot and expand. Then the valves can't seat as they tighten up. It happens. I'll admit I've screwed up and caused this very phenomenon to happen myself. We've all set valves for the very first time. Some of us alone, with no mentor to guide us. Just a service manual that expects you to know the basics. Lol.

No expiry date embossed here on this BC Plate.

Nope. You got 'er now. 7 o'clock as seen in my photo. That's #1. Then 5,3,6,2,4. Clockwise.

Check out these cool receipts to the original owner. 1959 the Royal got a new motor. Check out the price. $281 Canadian. I love this cool old original stuff that came with the car!

You're on the right track. However as soon as you said 12V negative ground, I'm out. Pretty much any advice from me is not valid. Sorry can't offer much. My experience with these electrical systems in the old Mopars is with the stock system exclusively. Good luck, you'll get it. Keep at it.

I found this one in the spare parts stash. Looks like its the stock one? I suspect so.

I am still learning. I have heard there are some slight intricate details as shown above here. I am also hearing about special window roller handles and escutcheons just for the Canadian model only. Spelled $$$! lol. I've had a few suggestions to share the differences in the trim and options on my 38 Chrysler versus my 38 Plymouth. That would be a good video to make. I will indeed likely do that in future. Once my Plymouth is back on the road and running again.

Having a ball going thru all the used parts today. A literal adult treasure chest. Spot the difference? Top is USA built 38 Royal. Bottom is Canadian built 38 Royal.

Out cruising tonight. Today I pulled the front drums. Inspected brakes. Were perfect concentric. I tweaked the minor adjustment only. Just a tad. Front pads like new. No leaks. Fluid clear. I repacked the wheel bearings. I discovered both front wheel hubs are clockwise to tighten. Modern normal. It threw me off. Expecting left side to be LH threads. I assume someone changed it up. Will get to rears soon. Set accelerator pump to middle setting. Re-installed RH splash pan. Man that is a pain. My wife helped. She was under the car. I was reaching down from above. I’m trying to locate some micro-wrenches so I can get at the points. I need 7/32. No luck yet. I’ll try more stores soon. I won’t touch timing or dwell until I have some. A pic, out for a cruise this evening.

With #1 piston at TDC, where abouts is the rotor pointed to? Plug #1 plug wire at the rotor ? Imagine the face of a clock. Position #1 should be about the 7:00 position. Is the system wired for positive ground? Each plug wire after #1, track them to their spark plug locations. What are they? 1, 5, 3, 6, 2,4? The positive wire at the coil, does it have a wire traveling to the distributor cap, at the side? Ultimately hooked to the breaker points? Is the condenser wired up properly? See any sings of line cracking or carbon tracking inside the distributor cap? Rotor tip and inside cap free of corrosion? IS the small spring and carbon tip still in place in the centre of the distributor cap? It rides on the centre of the rotor.

Sorry Ulu. Thanks fot your interest. I will send you a personal message on my 1953 Chrysler Windsor.

Is that a valve seat? Looks more like a steam valve brought up from the Titanic. I’ve hand cut a few valve seats. Not sure I’d make any progress with that by hand.

Some literature that came with the car:

Touché @MarcDeSoto you nailed it. I get to enjoy this one everyday that I drive it. I still have my Plymouth to wrench on and fix up. @Ulu my ‘53 Chrysler is for sale locally. Not sold yet. Thanks for all the kind comments folks. I had no idea so many of you watched my YT videos. They will continue. I’ve been too busy to produce a video of my new acquisition. Been wrenching on it! Lol. Fuel leak is fixed. It was the pressure regulator. Pulled the hill in 3rd WOT tonight. No issues. Dwell needs addressing, its at 20 deg. Will get more work done this weekend. Working for wages is my biggest problem with my new car! It takes me away from it too much.?