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keithb7 last won the day on January 7

keithb7 had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Mopars
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Chrysler Royal C18 Coupe

    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan

    1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

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  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
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  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

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  1. I varied throttle and load conditions. Not pushing it too hard for first while. A few trips around the neighborhood at first. Varied speeds. Then I took her for a longer local drive. I varied my speed, up and down. Finally driving it up the hill home. I know I got the engine and initial oil up to full operating temps few times at at least then dumped it. Probably 100 miles then drained it. A few trips up the hill home and I figure the rings were well seated.
  2. Yes I do know that car. I suspect the folks claiming “its hi-way robbery” haven’t rebuilt an engine in the past 4-5years. It used to be relatively cheap compared to today.
  3. I must admit, the first low hour oil dump after my engine rebuild was interesting to say the least. Lots of crap floating in the oil. Oils and special lubes that were used during engine assembly were blended in with the engine oil. It struck a little fear in my confidence. Lol. Was there coolant emulsion in there too? No. The second oil change was all good. Filters clean.
  4. I am unfamiliar with the intricacies of the Airflow engine. I did however rebuild a 3 ⅜ bore 1953 Mopar flathead engine. I bored it over to 3 7/16. I did all my own labor except the machining. I got the majority of my parts from Vintage Power Wagons. I am not sure how many parts from the airflow engine are interchangeable with all the other Mopar engines from the era. Everything has been inflated so much in the past couple years. Everyone has got to eat and try and keep up with rising costs. I’d be inclined again, to do all the engine labor myself and save a lot of money. What your engine actually needs can only be determined by complete disassembly of everything. Then a thorough measurement and inspection of all worn parts. Some examples (but not limited to): -Main and rod bearing clearances -Cylinder taper and out-of-round -Piston ring end gap - crank thrust -crank journal taper -tappet wear -valve set surface contact -camshaft lobe wear
  5. Marc the questions here about oil pools inside the valve covers reveals that you really should to be doing more reading. Researching. Your understanding of these engines appears limited. The oil pools are a very basic foundational level topic. Think about all the various ways oil can enter into the cylinders. There really aren’t that many ways on a flathead engine. There is no oil pressure up in the head area where the spark plugs are. There are no valve stem seals. How then could oil get up there? Ideally you’d be able to answer this. If not, definitely do more reading and research. Asking for quick answers here may get you a solution but you likely won’t gain any understanding. You really should strive for deeper level understanding. You’ll struggle to get that from a social media site such as this. I am carefully not trying to sound pretentious here. I’m really trying to help you by guiding you to opening massive doors for yourself. Once you get your car running and driving you’ll benefit tremendously by having a good grasp of the basics. Then you can and will, be able to troubleshoot and fix your car literally on the roadside, quickly.
  6. Last time I just plowed ahead and removed rad. Wasn’t hard. Rad came out of my ‘53 quickly. Later I got a flywheel turning tool. Worked great too. Image shown. Why is engine hard to turn with plugs out? Good question. Do you have any history of this engine? When you say starter turns it over, yet cannot be turned by hand is concerning.
  7. My experience is the 6V led light bulbs are absolute junk. Maybe the ones you found are better. I’m skeptical. “USA Seller” is trickery and means nothing.
  8. I wouldn't sweat being out a ½ thou. That's finer than frog's hair. Me? I'd be inclined to resume with reassembly. Some books I have here show .0005 to .002 specs. The Chrysler Industrial engine book I have here states .0005 to .0015, maximum allowable .002 I look forward to what others have to say!
  9. It sounds pretty decent to me. Congrats on getting it running. Tell us what you sealed the joint with, between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust manifold flange. How long ago did you assemble this joint? Are the bolts tight? Does it have a gasket? Or some type of goop? Are both iron mating surfaces of the joint true and square? If you have good engine oil pressure, I’d plan to move forward with car reassembly. Break the engine in later. If the engine has to come back out after extensive break-in time, so be it. You won’t need to take the body off the frame to do so. 😄 How’s your coolant look? Any air bubbles? Any oil in coolant?
  10. Out here in BC we are fortunate to have lots of snow and glaciers. Rain too, as moisture evaporates off the pacific ocean and condenses up against the mountains. We have lots of hilly terrain. All this snow and ice that melts, the rain water, it all fills lakes and rivers that all eventually works its way tirelessly to the sea again. Elevation and gravity are creating seemingly endless energy to move all that water. We dam powerful rivers, create water reservoirs, flood valleys, divert a portion of rivers to power generating turbines. I'll guess that probably 99% all our electricity here in BC comes from moving water. Hydro-electricity is a household word. So common, that the electrical bill is called the "hydro bill". Yes mostly all of us just call the entire process, "hydro". Hydro is pretty green and renewable. Yet an incredible amount of concrete, steel and copper are used to build these hydro dams and turbines. All products that are mined from the earth and processed. Coal is usually burned to dry the materials needed to make concrete. Copper mines here in BC are massive. Steel is shipped-in to BC on trains , trucks and boats from other areas. Shipping methods that all need fossil fuel to move the steel here. There is no way to get around mining and carbon emissions, yet hydro-electricity is pretty darn clean once it is all set up and running. The nature and wildlife preservationists are dead-set against flooding river valleys with the introduction of a new dam. It's never easy. Yet we all need and love our electricity. It has to come from somewhere. Hydro seems to be the least risky and damaging long-term of all electricity generation methods.
  11. A hearty welcome Carl! I think I'm gonna like you...Reading, learning and understanding first. Then you put your new found skills to the test. That my friend is a plan. By doing so you are not "hoping" to fix this car. You are "planning" to. A hope, is a just dream without a plan. I suspect you may have watched some of my YT educational videos on these old Mopars. I live here on this site and will happy to help you out where I can. As will many other members here. These cars are so simple, they are fantastic cars to learn all about automotive systems. You can indeed lap valves. You could just have the machine shop cut the right seat angle and install new guides. Then you can do the rest. Lapping and sealing valves is very rewarding work. The experience gives you insight and feeds your brain. The more work you do yourself, the better you feel. The better you feel, the more new projects you'll take on. The better you understand things on a foundational level. You'll be able to troubleshoot almost any problem. Whether in the garage, or on the side of the road. In terms of the stuck engine, I came into possession of one like you describe. The piston rings rusted to the cylinder walls. I got everything out of the way. I flipped the block over on my stand and used a couple pieces of 1"x1" dimensional lumber and a 3 lb sledge. After soaking both upper and lower parts of the rings with penetrating oil for weeks, I finally took a swing of rye and started pounding the pistons from the bottom side out the top. I know I split up a few pieces of the wood in the process. The job was was a bit of a bugger, but they came out. Done carefully, I can't see this doing a whole lot of cylinder wall damage. You can hone the top of the cylinders above the pistons before you run them out. The damage is already there with the rust. Just don't pound on any rod ends. You could bend them slightly. You want to try and re-use your rods. Mucho $$ to replace the rods with new. Keep in mind, if you look around, 25" block engine cores can be found for cheap. You can rewire that whole car yourself. Make your own harnesses. I did so, in my '38 Plymouth. Fun and again, very rewarding. It will provide excellent training and experience that you'll have for the rest of your life. I started with old Mopars about 2016 I think it was. I learned more about cars in the past 7 years than I probably did the first 30 years of my adult life. I wish I had started way earlier. 22 years old sounds about perfect. I look forward to seeing you work through this car. Don't be scarce around here. Feel free to ask any questions. There are no dumb questions. Tons of people here to ask for great advice. Keith
  12. Welcome @hbpaints to the forum. Lots of knowledgeable and helpful folks here. A very important point to make about your Canadian car is the engine. It will likely be a 25” long 218 ci. Do not confuse this with the 23” long 218 ci engine built in the USA. Different bore and stroke. Crank. Rods pistons, bearings etc don’t interchange. I read and understand that the “C” on the end of the engine SN indicates it is a Canadian built engine. I have doubts that it means custom. That engine could go into countless different applications. Custom on the block SN meaning custom what? The car itself, the trim, the options, color, upholstery, map light, etc indeed could indicate it is a factory built model Dodge Custom. I don’t think the C on the engine is an indicator. I could be mistaken. Anyone else have any thoughts on that?
  13. That is a Borg & Beck clutch assembly. Type 9A7, model 955 I see there. I wish I could locate some Borg & Beck published info on what the numbers mean. I have seen a few different model numbers in Mopars. I can only assume clutch springs of various strength are used. Compensating for larger engines, more torque, bigger cars, more payload. I have a feeling my current 237 ci engine in my 1938 Plymouth that is mated to my 1938 to a stock clutch, could use some heavier clutch springs.
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