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keithb7

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keithb7 last won the day on March 30

keithb7 had the most liked content!

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About keithb7

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, guitars and amps.
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Sedan. 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe C60-2.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Hobby Mechanic
  • Occupation
    Mining

Converted

  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Vintage Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

2,789 profile views
  1. I have my limits...Sewing upholstery! This is where my better half steps in. Body work? I’m on the fence. I keep threatening to buy a 210v MIG buzzbox. I am reluctant, but do want to try. When I get to that stage, I’ll give it a shot. I have a friend. He was a school teacher. He’s retired now and can be found welding currently. He’s in the middle of a full body off restoration. He’s tapping on 70. He’s restored many, many cars. If he went to university, not trade school, he’s surely done alright. I’ve seen his work. Its great. I figure If he can do this, I gotta try too. He’s inspirational at the least.
  2. @westaus29 I use google images as well. I agree, super easy. I do upload several photos to this forum. I use a computer often, and download the image from google images, then upload the photo here. I also use my iphone. The latest operating system allows me to choose the photo size to upload directly to this forum. Large or medium is works well and keeps me under the size limit here. I am finding your 1938 Ply photos interesting. As I too am currently going through my '38 P6. I see many similarities but also some interesting differences. The RH drive offers a different spin on what I have been looking, at and working with in my garage recently. Of particular interest, I notice that the master cylinder is of course on the RH side of the car. However the distribution block which houses the brake light switch is still over on the LH side of the frame. I see the brake line from the MC go back to the rear engine mount cross member, and cross over to the LH frame. Then forward to the distribution block. Your shocks appear a lot more modern than mine. Do you know what they were designed for use on by chance? Possibly built for a newer car than the '38, yet they fit the '38? I am interested in buying new shocks for mine. Any info you can share is appreciated. Keith PS if you get stuck, and are missing a photo, perhaps someone here may have their pre-disassembly pics to share. 😁
  3. @dpollo I did not know that. The seat has been recovered now, so I am not wanting to cut in for a speaker. With the oil pan off, when I turn the flywheel by hand, I can hear a little compressed air coming down past the rings. It bellows, amplified in the crankcase. Easy to hear. I suspect this is an indicator of blow by? I suspect any engine with some use will eventually allow this to occur. How bad? Depends on time in service and wear. It’s inevitable. The Compression, vacuum measured Engine sludge seem respectable. I’ll carry on as is. Maybe I’ll pop off a main and a rod cap and inspect those too.
  4. Some sludge in the oil pan. Not bad. Can you name the metal piece I found in the bottom of the the oil pan? Seen at bottom of pic.
  5. Tonight I’m in thru the fender window to access the engine valves. The crankcase is quite clean. Traces only of any sludge. I think it’s another clue that I have a low milage engine in this car. Earlier compression and vacuum readings showed well too. I will drop the pan soon too. Happy findings!
  6. Someone way smarter than me informed me: First off: 1st gear and 3rd gear, are the same two gear ratios. The same two gears are meshed when in either 1st or 3rd. Additionally 2nd and 4th gears are the same gear set that are meshed. Same gear ratio when you are in 2nd or 4th. What you are really doing when going from low range to hi range, is changing the final gear ratio of the output shaft of the tranny. "Drive" on the shift console could also be called "hi range". Ok, so lets you start in 1st (or 3rd gear) in low range. You lift your foot and shift to 2nd gear, in low range. Now lets assume you clutch in and shift the console to drive (high range). The tranny stays in 2nd (which is also 4th) gear. All you did when you shifted into hi range was change the final gear ratio of the output shaft. So you cannot actually go up through all 4 possible gear rations from 1 thru 4. The tranny upshift goes, 1st, 2nd, 4th. It was designed this way. The only way to get into 3rd is either slam the throttle down when in hi range, and it will down shift into 3rd. Or, you are in hi range 4th gear ratio, and you coast to a stop. Then the tranny down shifts into 3rd. This can be confusing. It is weird to understand unless you understand the way this tranny works. Maybe another way to look at it is: There are only 2 gear sets on the input side of the tranny. Then you have a final drive hi-low gear option on the output end of the tranny. Your down shift problems are not really solved here, however it does explain why 3rd is skipped on the upshift. This is just a 2 speed tranny with hi/low range options. Many a man has scratched his head over it. Many will poke fun at it, however it’s genius. Those who don’t understand may ridicule it. The people who figured this out and designed it were really smart!
  7. Here's another couple pics from yesterday, for my supporters. I do feel blessed and very fortunate:
  8. Thanks guys. I enjoy your feedback, and also enjoy sharing my progress. It is exciting as my project moves ahead. It is nice to know there are folks around here that really "Get" these old cars. I can commiserate with you all about the topic. Most friends, and family in my life sorta hover over the car. They think it's neat and want to go for a ride. They all sorta glaze over when I start talking mentioning the diff or carb work that I completed. I know I've gone too far when I start comparing the inner workings of my M-6 semi auto tranny in my '53, versus my 3 speed with cluster gear, countershaft tranny in my '38. Yet here, we can talk about it and you understand. We share a common language here. We're vintage car outcasts sort of. The weird guys who cling to the old, less popular Mopars. The cab in the '38 is cozy. Momma and I fit in there nicely. It sure would have been fun if we were teenagers, borrowing Dad's car in 1940! I am planning to install a custom radio. I found an old large box style AM tube radio that was period correct. Art-Deco appearance. About 1940. I gutted it. I ordered a Blue-Tooth circuit board with built in amp. It will run off 6V. My goal is to install 2 speakers, and the circuit board in the old radio box. All we do is jump in the car, the iphone automatically synchs up wirelessly to the radio box and plays all our favourite songs. That's the plan. We shall see. I will post photos and share that project when I get to it.
  9. If I had to take my car somewhere else, for any work that had to be jacked up more than a couple inches, I would not own my vintage cars. I enjoy the wrenching very much. As much as driving the cars. If the wheels are still mounted, and the car is jacked up, it will not crush you if it comes down. If the wheels are all off, you can take extra measures to protect yourself. Lay down, and double stack two wheels and slide them under the frame. The car won't flatten the wheels if it comes down if jacks fail. You can use jacks, and additionally back them up with a hydraulic jack too. I do this often. My hydraulic shop jack on 4 wheels is often jacked up as a back up plan, beside the mechanical jack. For big jobs, longer term jacking, you can buy dimensional lumber and cut and stack pieces. It can't come down if you do it right. 4x4's are great. 2x4s work well too. The bigger the better. Cut 'em up in to manageable pieces and they are easy to store. You can stack to various required lengths as required. If you'd played with lego, you're perfectly qualified to proceed. Heck I've even taken a round, cut up tree piece that was destined to be split for firewood. Sits nice and flat when both ends have been cut with a chain saw. Slide under part of the car. It'll save you if jacks fail. Tranny out, clutch out, diff out, driveline out, all wheels removed, brakes ripped down...All in the past couple months here. Jacked up on all 4 corners, with extra precautions for months. Nobody else is getting under that car but me. I sure am not going to pay someone else to do it. Stop, think about being safe. What could happen? Remove the risks.
  10. Couldn't wait any longer to put the seat back in a try a test drive. I invited Momma to jump in and enjoy her efforts. (She reupholstered the seat).It was very comfy. It was good to see her smile. Heat blowing on her feet, sitting in comfort for the big drive around the block. 😁 Part of me is surprised how far the car has come since I bought it. The members on this forum have been very helpful. Thanks for all your assistance so far. I'm far from done but the rewards are stating to show up now. If anyone has a glove box latch they'd part with let me know! The duct tape is just not doing it for me.
  11. Today I tried the blower motor and heater core system. I works! I wired it up to read with the ammeter draw. Simple 10A on/off toggle switch for now. That was all I had in my parts stash. So I get hi fan speed or off only. I’ll look into variable resistor options so I can control fan speed. “Heat is a wonderful thing in the shoulder seasons”. - Said Momma.
  12. Happy day! I’m feeling good. Reaping the benefits today from working on my ‘38. It’s testing well and continues to improve. The brakes feel great. I’ve only gone around the block so far. I’ve got some more work to go yet before I insure it for road use. Steady progress. Time to drop the pan and look for sludge. Then pick an oil, and set the valves.
  13. Much easier to re&re the master cylinder once you’ve learned all the hard ways to do it.
  14. Found the problem. Removed old piston at bottom. New piston at top. Did not compare them at re-assembly. Assumed parts ordered were direct replacements. No so. Maybe over its life someone swapped in a ‘36-37 master cylinder? Used new seals with old piston and reassembled.
  15. The final new brake line, pedals and master linkage were all re- installed today. Something is up with the brakes, and I have suspicion I might know what the issue is. The brake pedal feels great. Smooth and making really good pressure. I noticed that my brake light switch is weeping brake fluid. I will replace it with new. The problem is, the master cylinder is not relieving pressure. When I pump up the brake pressure the brakes are staying on. I slacked off my pedal free play to ensure the piston returns all the way. I double checked the parts diagram in my shop manual and confirmed that I installed the parts and seals in the proper order. I think I may have gotten burned on the MC rebuild parts kit. It fit, but...I am off to read up on my master cylinder theory and operation. See if I can figure out the problem before I take the MC back out again. That little bugger is not the easiest part to remove. LOL.
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