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Just install some late model Dodge "moose antler" side mirrors and you won't even notice the bed width.... 😅

Polarity of ground makes no difference in this case, my ammeter has been wired both ways. I had to reverse the wires on the meter when going from positive to negative ground to make the needle swing the correct direction. My apologies for participating in thread creep!

Indeed, these "big" trucks are kinda small compared to today's full-size pickups, the operators have gotten bigger as well. The big 1948 Pilot-House brochure has this comparison of small 130-lb and large 220-lb driver, showcasing the new larger cab. Judging from the locations of these two drivers' eyes, shoulders, and knees, the big guy is about 6 ft tall-ish, small guy maybe 5'6"...Andy Taylor and Barney Fife sizes. This reminds me of the time some big ol' boy moseyed up to the house wanting to sit in one of the Pilot-House cabs on the side yard. He wanted to get an old truck to fix up, but made the smart and probably experienced decision to see how he fit in this "great old truck" as he kept rambling on about. So I opened the door to the one that I had driven last, he climbed in, and the look on his face said it all as the steering wheel scraped his belt buckle...he decided that these old great trucks were nice to look at, but not quite his size

Curiosity got the best of me so I went out to the P15 and put an ohmmeter across the ammeter body and chassis ground. The meter body is indeed grounded so the gasket has no electrical function. I still suspect it is to prevent dust in cluster. Update: Took a second look at the ammeter. Mine also has the little gaskets around the two mounting screws. Why are they there? Possibly to prevent the tip of a screwdriver from slipping off the screw head and coming in contact with the hot terminals on the meter???? I dunno.....I would disconnect the battery before poking around back there...........

The ones for my p15 are 8-32 and very short. About .25 long

There are 4 plugs in the oil galley along the side of the engine. Either of these will work for your sensor. Use which ever one is more accessible. Your original gauge would be plumbed into one of them, likely the one behind the starter as Sniper states. The second one from the rear may be feeding your oil filter. And the front one will be hiding behind the generator.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this COE hauler getting eyeballed on the FB

Yah the bed is just past the duals, but under the 8'6" max width. He's a wide one for sure, but with the running boards and all it will make more sense visually.

She’s great and very knowledgeable !!

I used many of the GM pellets in the shops. Supposedly were intended to lubricate the water pump seal. The one I personally have used exclusively for the last 15+ years is K-Seal. Same stuff that Subaru issued to help with MLS head gasket issues. We always called it Mechanic in a Bottle. It works. https://www.kseal.com/products/k-seal It works well and does not clog up radiators and heater cores. I use it at coolant changes on the '54 Truck and the '73 RV, just as a preventative measure.

I have a couple gauge clusters for P15s and can measure the thread.

I've been running one of those Champion aluminum radiators specifically made for my 51. Had it for more than a year now with no issues. It's been my observation with old radiators that if you start leaking stop leak or even soldering a hole doesn't really help because you just find the next weakest spot to leak

I've had this Coxhead brand puller for 50 yrs, bought especially for rear brake drums....it has never seen a brake drum it didn't like.........lol......the centre threaded bolt is 1.5" diameter.

One hundred points for Loren !!!!

They are different right to left. What size brakes do you have? Each size has a different spindle, that is 10 inch, 11 inch or 12 inch. I have a set of Plymouth 10 inch spindles I would donate for the shipping cost. For my cars I am changing over to Chrysler Windsor 12 inch brakes, so I have the “take offs” gathering dust.