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I used the stock master with the residual valve removed but I added two inline residual valves. Two pound for the discs and ten pound for the drum. Because of the position of the master I was concerned about getting air in the system. I’ve had a Scarebird kit on my 52 Coronet for five years now with no issues.

Haha, yeah i didn’t doubt you forgot…. I believe the phrase is “throw yourself under the truck” 🤠

Officer Grandy from the sheriff's office in NC called me today and informed me that Arthur passed away and I do not know any more details at this time. Their records show where while back I had asked for a welfare check as he dropped off the forum and would not answer his phone thus they called me. Nothing in the papers at this time that I can find. I will stay on this a bit and see what I can learn. Rest in peace knuckleharley.....

After cleaning and re oiling with light machine oil, I would think a bit of a wheel bearing grease thumbed into the hole would be sufficient to keep contaminants out. 2x times service per year should keep things in good shape for a non daily driver application.

You can see the hole in your photo, here is my generator and can see the grease cap in it.

That’s a generator, not an alternator. There’s a hole near the very back of the generator. It should have an oil filler (nipple) like the one at the front.

Headlights and hood are on

Merle is correct as always. ..... like all brakes they need to be moving freely and with 75 year old cars this is more of a issue then with newer cars. My personal advice on these brakes, you need to be involved with them and willing to work on them yourself. There is nobody out there that will care for and have as much interest in these brakes as you the owner. It was the best braking system available in it's day ..... today they are obsolete. ..... There are only a few of us around that know these brakes and work on them. You are not going to find a 30 year old mechanic that gives 2 hoots about this old obsolete braking system .... I almost guarantee you will be his only customer .... not worth their time to learn it properly. A custom shop that only works on old vehicles, will be expensive and try to talk you into a modern disk brake conversion and is the most practical way to go. If you are willing to be the mechanic and work on the brakes yourself ..... then it is feasible to keep them ..... They are not self adjusting, the best working brakes need a routine maintenance check every year or as needed, if you drive it year around. .... Only you can do this. With the amount of love and care @keithb7puts into his brakes. The help and information is here and available. If you are not willing or capable, I recommend you save yourself headaches and update the brakes. Rustyhope sells a front disk brake conversion kit that you will need a mechanic to install .... sadly the rear end needs to be updated to get modern rear brakes. ..... A jeep cherokee or Ford Explores will fit and use same wheel bolt pattern. You can get modern brakes for not a lot of $$, easy to work on, easy to get parts .... any mechanic can work on them .... will work for years with no maintenance ..... Again the modern yoke on the rear end will not fit your obsolete u-joints ..... you need to change the yoke on transmission as well and get a drive line built for it. So there is a little investment up front, The car looks totally stock at car shows, you have modern u-joints, choice of rear end gearing, modern brakes .... The car runs and drives as original .... you just eliminated a bunch of future headaches. ..... trouble free miles without having to worry about brakes, u-joints, rear end leaks. Later update the distributor with the slant 6 electronic distributor conversion and add a alternator ..... You will have a trouble free car you can drive anywhere any time with no major headaches as we get older. It will run and drive just like it does now, it will show just like it does now .... it will simply be more dependable and trouble free ...... set goals. You either learn to work on it and we will help and you work on it yourself .... or you need to upgrade a few things ..... IMHO

One thing to keep in mind when dealing with brakes that pull in one direction upon application... The fault may actually be on the opposite side of the direction it pulls. The general consensus is that the brake is "grabbing" and making the vehicle pull in that direction. But sometimes the brake on the other side is being lazy and not applying as it should. This could be caused by seized components, or by a failing flexible brake line.

Most head bolts go into the water jacket. You will need to use some kind of thread sealant on them.

Neither RTV nor gasket maker is appropriate for a head gasket. You don't tell us what kind of head gasket you're fixing to use composite or copper? If it's an all copper head gasket use the spray copper already mentioned. If it's the felpro style which is copper on one side and composite on the other use nothing on the composite side copper spray gasket on the copper side. If you've got something else let us know

BAT terminal on regulator or the actual battery terminal will work, they are electrically at the same potential. I'm not sure how the early stomp starters are wired. Most of us connect the single wire to the wire that was on the BAT terminal of the old voltage regulator. Your fuse can go between the alternator and where you connect the single wire. Its purpose is to protect the car's harness in the remote case something in the alternator shorts to ground. The link should be rated a little lower than the harness wires so it will open before smoke escapes from the harness. Get ready to enjoy bright lights at idle and a battery that stays fully charged with none of the aggravation of keeping an old genny and regulator in working order!

I don't know the answer to the issue that has been raised in regard to whether or not your 1938 has the same type of ammeter as my 48. What I can tell you is the modern 6v alternator works beautifully in my car using the original ammeter. Connecting the alternator to your wiring architecture is straightforward because the new alternators are "single wire" and internally regulated which eliminates the old voltage regulator. There are several threads in the forum on this subject and we can walk you through this simple process if you decide to pursue it. Here is the vendor I and several other forum members have used to source our alternators: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

A couple of points to bring out. What determines current flow in the charging system is the load. Not the alternator not the ammeter. As long as th OP doesn't add any additional electrical items this should be no increase in current through the system. That said old systems tend to have dirty connections which increase the load. A properly designed and calibrated shunted ammeter can most definitely show you accurate current values. Which is not to say the factory ones are like that because frankly it's really unnecessary. All they need to be able to do is show you whether or not it's charging or discharging and the relative amount of charge which they do just fine. One other thing to understand is that the only two loads going through the ammeter and a properly functioning vehicle is the current necessary to charge the battery and for some odd reason the horn. So I don't really think this is a concern