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ok, ok, ok.... here are my pics .... haha. FEF and @RouteVanJoe's Van were drawing lots of traffic due to their uniqueness amongst the sea of 10.000 vehicles.

Well 2 years later it is a runner again ..... I have some more work to do. Damn I just hate pulling motors that should come out the bottom ..... out of the top. So I have done it twice ...... I'm happy it actually runs and seems to run well. So I'm happy it starts and runs .... The last engine did the same and spun a rod bearing at 50 miles on the odometer. So it will take some time before I trust this engine that seems to run good.

Sniper - that was the reason I contacted them directly and went to their factory. They know. Before they allowed me to visit, they told me to use the 73111 part number to order it from AZ etc. I believe they are the only producer of the part.

OSHA has no jurisdiction at home. Therefore, it is compliant, lol.

another one....

John T got artsy at the 50's this year...so, I did a different arsty shot of Joe's route van off my door. Waiting for John to post no longer! Hard to get a pic with no people!

anyone grounding the battery through a thermostat housing bolts should not be allowed to own one of these old cars much less be allowed to work on it....

Been starting mine for 4 years on 12V If you are running 12V to the coil without going thru a ballast resistor then that is why it is so hot.

The ground cable on our D24 is to a stud (5/16) on the generator mount. The cable is routed under the generator to a built in (ergo - "factory") wire clamp on the inner fender, then forward and upwards to the positive terminal of the battery. That is not where it was when we got the car, it was straight from the terminal to one of the thermostat housing bolts. I don't like that look, found that stud on the generator mount, and changed the ground to that location with what to me is a cleaner routing. As noted, don't over-think it. Theoretically, the shorter the cables the better, but with 1 gauge cable the length isn't a concern in these cars. Use the right gauge cable, and route it where you like it. NAPA can build battery cables for you, too. They do here, anyway.

Don't rush into a carb replacement or rebuild, you're not at that point yet. Even a bad carb will run the engine if you pour fuel down the throat. Fuel leaks can be the result of a serviceable carb that just needs a little tweaking. Rule #1; diagnose and address ONE problem at a time, otherwise you don't know what is working or what isn't........ Rule #2; don't go to the bank with everything you see on YouTube!

I am going to Gettysburg on Wednesday 6/26/24 This is one of their stop over locations. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Accessories should swap easily . The distributer in the Plymouth would have a bit more aggressive timing curve in response to the thunderous increase in compression.

First photo shows the tag on the donor engine. Next shows the truck engine, she was parked in the bush for 46 years and rain and snow was allowed on the engine! Then we have the neat Fargo tag on the door pillar.

Governor and solenoid should be part of the of trans