Leaderboard

Hello all I hope I’m in the right place I see it says mid 30d and mopar I have a 1934 dodge coupe that’s been sitting since 1967 Motor was seized and it was dirty I spent a month and half getting parts for the motor did an in frame rebuild new rings main and rod bearings car runs and drives excellent it’s still amazing how a car sat for so long and runs and drives so well But hey it’s a Dodge I am not going to restore it I think it looks great the way it is! Thank you all John

Today I’ve taken my Chrysler on a road trip. A 250 mile trip. All hi-way driving in the interior of British Columbia. 2 lane non-divided hi-way. I took my thermostat out to experiment. The engine maintained between 150 and 160F at hi-way speeds. Ambient temps about 80F. Running a bit too cold probably. I’ve burned a bit more fuel than I expected. I suspect partially due to the cool engine operating temps. I am also thinking that my float is a touch low. . I engaged overdrive as soon as I left the driveway. Once in 3rd plus OD, I cruised at 60+ mph very comfortably. Not once did I downshift for any hills. It is plenty hilly around here, so that is impressive. The shocks and springs were noticeably good. A very nice ride. The hi-ways are also twisty in places. 55 mph was about the max comfortable speed I maintained on turns. Otherwise my skinny stock sized tires squeaked defiantly. 30 psi in them. They are radials that look like old bias tires. This was my longest out of town trip in my Chrysler. There is a big difference between my Plymouth and my Chrysler on longer hi-way trips. OD being the biggest factor. The Chrysler front steering feels a lot lighter. Not as good road feel. Maybe its the radials. My Plym has stock bias tires. Maybe I prefer the stiff road feel with the old leaf springs. Stiff tire sidewalls. Less lean maybe. My Chrysler has a more modern front steering geometry. Perhaps I need to tweak the sector gear a touch. I will look into later for sure. The 251 engine my Chrysler doesn’t feel any more powerful than the current 237 engine in my Plymouth. Could be due to power to power to weight ratios or the gear ratios. 4.11 in Plym. 3.93 (or something close) plus OD in my Chrysler. It definitely gets there faster though. As 60-65 is very comfortable. Not so in my Plym which really feels strung out at those speeds. A great day and a real nice opportunity to compare two 1938 Mopars. Some very different features and engineering in a few ways.

My NYS inspection was done on Monday. All is good. As has been the case for the last couple of years, we will use the Grand Prix Festival and Vintage Race weekend at Watkins Glen as a warm up to the picnic. Miss Daisy, our 51 Plymouth is becoming a fan favorite when we do our two laps of the old street course as part of the festival. Folks get tired of seeing all of those old Jaguars, Alfa Romeos, MGs, Triumphs, Porsches, Maseratis, Ferraris and other assorted sports cars and the old Plymouth seems to be what they like to see.

I believe it was a wise man who once said Speed kills ..... buy a flathead & live forever

75 years ago today, a red Plymouth convertible rolled off the line in Detroit. Delivered to Gettysburg Motors in Pennsylvania, it stayed in the same town until 2004 when I imported it to the UK. Still beautiful, but certainly no powder puff, last weekend it was put through its paces at Prescott Hill Climb.

Vee money everything on the car works amazingly Had to do brake wheel cylinders grease everything did have to do a in frame motor rebuild runs smoothly no smoke very nice driving car It was well taken care of before it was taken off the road in 1967

Success! Got the water distribution out in one piece, ala @keithb7 's flat bar/vicegrip technique. It took an hour or so of loosening the tube with lube and tapping the steel bar on each side. Before I take it to the machine shop for magnfluxing and hot-tanking, I want to do any work that will create debris that the machine shop cleaning will remove. To port/polish (or gasket match) or not, is the next question. I measured both the block and intake /exhaust openings and they all measure out at about the same diameter- 1.3". Does it make any sense to spend the effort to match them if they are already the same diameter, even though the gasket diameter is larger? I'm going with Langdon's split exhaust, which also measure at 1.3" dia.

Welcome. You found a great spot here for flathead era Mopars. Your '34 Dodge is wonderful. I too like it as is. A very classy car design. The long nose and the rear cab. By the next year the style was gone. Followed by long curving lines. 1935 Dodge Coupe:

Do these count 1925 3/4 ton woody also had this 1973 CNT 900 318 Detroit diesel 13 speed road ranger Broke my heart to get rid of it but it sat more then I drove it Also had a 1947 Dodge cab over John

Love the blue dot tail lites, just got a set for my 52,$50 shipped to my door.

there is an adjustment on the shift lever that should be looked at since the whole thing was apart when you did the overcenter spring and clutch fork adjustment this may put the shift lever out of adjustment this happened to me i lost reverse until adjustment

Reverse is pull towards you and then up I gave you sort of an answer in the AACA Forum

https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-chrysler-plymouth-dodge-desoto-fluid-drive.229898/

Hey Guys Taking drivers ed right now and while I'm really excited about driving soon, I wasn't feeling any of the newer model cars that I would likely be able to afford as a fist car. Where did all the style go after the cars of the 40's and the 50's. I asked my parents if I could put the budget into a real car: curves, character and charisma. My mom said I needed to write a proposal with a timeline and budget. My dad agreed to give me some help and advice. He was a mechanic in the Marine Corps. He can get just about any old motor running, but he can't weld or anything like that.. We found 47 Deluxe 2 door sedan, flathead six, three on the tree, VIN indicates Detroit steel. Body looks smooth with no sign of patches. The frame is straight with some surface rust but nothing too bad. Floor and floor brackets look like they will need attention for sure. There are some decisions to make that I could really use some help with. Safety and drivability are important because this will be my first car and my primary car. Engine runs and sounds great so sticking with the flathead, but is the three-speed transmission good enough for highways these days -- should I upgrade the transmission -- if so, what are the best option? The suspension is very loose and all drum breaks. Cant afford a custom chassie, but cant tell if rebuilding the suspension and upgrading to disk breaks is less expensive than just welding in a new suspension (MII). We would have to hire the welding. Which direction is most cost effective but still safe? Thanks in advance for your help. Nicholas.

Backed her out of the trailer yesterday and performed nearly the same inspection. Gave her a quick wash&wax, and she’s ready to go. Super excited to see everyone! 13+ cars registered this year! Hoping for a few more drive ups.

So today was prep the car for the P15 Picnic Tour. Kate went into the shop for a pre event look over. And her annual NY Safety Inspection. After putting about 1200 miles since her last time on the lift. The following g results were evident. Coolant, green and clean and at proper level no visible leaks Engine oil, down 1 pint Trans oil down about 4 ounces, topped up. Differential fluid level up to snuff Hoses in good condition. Battery acid at proper level Radiator fan and pulley checked water pump greased Brake mc fluid clear and at proper level front brake friction material at about half wear no glazing drums within spec.apx 50k miles since replaced Belt looks good Parking brake adjusted Lights all working Steering parts in good shape Front tires set to 32 psi show 8/32 tread Rears set to 30 psi show 10/32 tread Drive shaft no excessive play Shocks no visible leaks Brake lines all good no visible leaks Fuel lines and filler hose no signs of leaks or excessive corrosion. Differential vent free and easily moved about. Had the dist out a coupleweek back, lubed it treated the points to a couple swipes of the point file, and then gapped. Plugs pulled gap checked and reinstalled. And now with cooler mornings and evenings, I cracked the heater valve a turn or so. Did I miss anything? I was charged for 30 minutes labor $55.00, the $10 nys inspection fee and sales tax. So 70 bucks worth of piece of mind. Will clean the inside glass, get the travel tools, and road trip parts cache loaded. Keep calm and PICNIC ON.

I bought my kit from Mikes Carburetor's just last week. My Carb was finished yesterday and im picking it up today! I have a 53 Coronet with 241 Hemi and Gyromatic Tranny aswell

Perhaps there is a short in the radio and thatis why the power wire was disconnected. However, as Sniper says if the radio was connected to ignition switch it should not get any power when the switch is off.

A photo of my T&C ? wood restored

New to me 1952 B3B restomod. Has a modified MOPAR 360 ci motor from a 1986 vehicle couple with a 737 transmission. Older restoration, but still pretty nice.

I would personally recommend running radial tires......the old bias ply style are bad about following all the ruts and grooves in the road and you sometimes have to fight the steering wheel. Radials have the sidewall give and a newer tread design......therefore they track better. They are harder to turn when at a stop or moving very slowly. Is your car the two seat coupe or the one seat business coupe? The engine should be a silver color and most accessories attached to it are black. Or, at least that's what I did. I presume you know it is positive ground, with the positive side of the battery grounded to the block. Make sure all your parking light and tail light connectors and bulb bases are clean and make good contact.....and are grounded properly. If you have not invested in a P15 repair manual and also a factory parts manual.....you should do so soon. Reprints are usually available if originals are difficult to find. Addendum......on a P15 with 15 inch wheels....the equivalent of a 215 R 15 is the best size in my opinion.