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This is what's in the 'kit': PLY G30 brackets (2) 9/16 x 3” HHCS (2) 9/16 x 2-1/2” HHCS (2) 9/16 x 1-3/4” HHCS (6) 9/16 hex nuts (6) 9/16 lock washers (2) Metric Banjo bolts (2) Cotter pins (2) Hose locks Everything else has to be purchased separately.

Nope, no mopar that I am aware of has a torque tube drive, all mopars were/are open drive, ie spinning driveshaft with uni joints or ball & trunion joints front & rear.......Andy Bernbaums used to carry Powerflite rebuild kits and parts, I'd try them.....as for whats it worth as its a 4dr in general they are worth much less than a 2dr,coupe, convert or wagon but in some respects they are looked upon as something different when they turn up at a show because of that fact..........it does look like one that would clean up well..........regards from Oz......andyd

Engine parts are readily available. Not too sure about the PF though. Good trans. There was only one common issue with them. The rev band apply link could be broken if treated to ‘spirited’ throttle application in reverse. DAMHIKT

Be careful, that flywheel is dang heavy. If there was any bolt threads sticking past the nuts you may want to consider replacing them with a slightly shorter bolt for "next time'.

I sure do like the fuel pump on my P15.

Good looking car! My 1954 Royal 4 door with a Hemi and Powerflite in very original condition cost 2000 about 10 years ago. It did not run and needed brakes. Parts are available and easier to find than you would think. As for brakes, they can be gotten from a number of places and there are disc brake kits available. As for the Powerflite, mine has been a great transmission. It was sticky and gummed up from sitting for years. I changed the fluid and it worked, but was having problems shifting. I replaced the governor with an NOS unit off eBay and it works great. I will get it rebuilt - eventually.

Winner!

My concern would be, where did the metal come from?????

Check the charts and chips at autocolor library. Search by year and make. Balfour green rings a bell. Check the earlier year's also. The firewall should be body color unless somebody messed with it. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

I would think that the flange should be up tight and there should be no opening or space. I would think that by having the space then this also puts stress on the bolts holding the unit together and then the stress is going to weaken the bolt becasue of the twisting action. Just my 25 cents worth od idea not a full mechanic but might ask a driveline shop mechanic of what should be the correct answer. Rich HArtung

as an update the schroons were very good.....however....I think I still prefer deep fried if but for the even coating verse the sagging of the batter air fried...

I saw the hubs. I'm passing on them for now. I'm going to go with my own hubs and not stud them unless I absolutely have to. I assumed that they had to get studded for clearance, but apparently not. I can trim down the hub flange. I have the economy DGE G30 coming. I asked for the install guide and they emailed it to me. Ordered all Raybestos off of Rock auto. 179 for everything including shipping. Don't need the dust caps. Calipers are rebuilds and the picture shows pins as well. We'll see. If it helps anyone, this is what they listed for the DGE G30: Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos Rotor 1993-96 Ford Probe front 4886318 BD125274 96318(R) Caliper, LH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4680 TQM25048 RC5248 Caliper, RH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4679 TQM25049 RC5247 Brake Hose (15”)* 1979 Seville front 36845 F98912 BH36845 Brake Hose (17”)* 1979-82 El Dorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914 BH36959/3696 Brake pads 1983-92 S10 4WD TS7070AM MX154 EHT154 Dust cap 1983-2010 Ranger 2WD NAPA 735142 Dorman 618-503

Well another $2k in this engine will get you started. ?

The Dorman 090010 drain plug, listed by dorman as fitting, has the wrong thread pitch. See picture compared to old plugs

Yes, these are press-in studs.

Clever solution, looks good.