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This is what I'm guessing was in said center of the emblem...... 48D

I was having hot start problems as well. I did the same thing, put in a pertronix (ignitor) and the matching coil. I also just put in an electric fuel pump (Airtex E8011) way back by the gas tank. Now it leaps to a hot start. Today was 90 here....started right up hot. I was wilting, but the car was running. Bypassed the mechanical fuel pump, wired the pump in with a relay and an inertia cut off switch in case of an accident.....but to me it was worth the effort and expense, it just starts right up...hot...cold...whatever. I so agree...I like that I can enjoy/trust my car. My wife likes it too. Happy wife...happy life! Almost forgot...the pertronix support is excellent...either by email or phone. I had a few questions.

Amazon 112.59 & 2 day free shipping if you have prime membership. I also found them at Streetside auto, same price & free shipping also. I believe Amazon gets them from Streetside. Greatest move I've made for starting.

The top looks like my 48 Plymouth. Believe it would be 46-48 and continue into 49-52 series. Not sure how long Plymouth kept using it. The bottom looks similar to the one in my 46 truck but I have a line the long way across the bottom. No switch hole in my trucks cover though. I would also suspect some sort of car application for that one.

the one on the bottom, although very similar to the B-series Dodge truck dome lens&bezel, I believe belongs in a Dodge car...the truck would have a slot cut on the right for the manual switch, whereas the car light was actuated by door jamb switches.

Here are some more pics of the daily driver. I am driving it almost daily, shaking out the bugs and fine-tuning along the way.

C series top B series bottom ???????

She does good work.

I'm running 50/50 coolant--@90 deg Doris stays right around 170 at highway speeds (60-65) and might get as high as 190 in town/traffic

In my '52 there is no fuse on the headlights--instead there is a bi-metal type electrical breaker...if there is a short in the headlights the breaker will cycle on and off. I expect that you have a short within the switch itself

I think I'd leave that constant hot wire off except when testing it. I'd also think I'd start at the switch. With the switch off, nothing should be going through to the lights. You can eliminate circuits simply by removing wires from the switch, one at a time, then tracing out the wires from the culprit circuit or it could be in the switch itself.

The headlamp switch should feed from an unswitched source meaning hot without ignition on. Typically it feeds from the load side of the amp gauge. Usually there is a longer than SAE 30 amp fuse integral with the switch. Your's seems to have a self resetting relay. So the clicking is the relay trying to reset. Apparently there is an inadvertent ground (short) some where between the switch and the lights. The relay depends on a bimetallic strip. When it over heats due to higher than spec load it pops off. when it cools it tries to reconnect and when it finds the same higher than rated load it pops of again. I would start at the lights and back up along the wires looking for bad insulation allowing flow to the sheetmetal or another wire or corroded connections. Start at the lamps (parking also) and check all the wires and the grounds for the headlamps ( the running lights typically ground through the assembly to the body. Then check all the connections and insulation at the junction box where the wire split from the main feed to the lamps. You may be able to isolate the source to one side or the other by disconnecting one sides circuit while leaving the other one connected while testing. Usually on the radiator support. then from there back through the engine compartment to where they go through the fire wall grommet, then from there to the switch. Good luck, I don't envy you working up under the dash in the 90 + temps. (hint removing the lower seat cushion makes the job a bit easier on your back.

Looking good

I was just working on rotating the scanned pic to save your neck Don! Try #2

A quick returns on old car karma. . . A couple weeks ago, just before my handbrake band failed, I mailed some brake tubing clips to a fellow restoring a '32 Dodge. No charge, I had some extra and he had been unsuccessful at finding a supplier for an exact match to the vintage ones on his car. Now different old Plymouth owner is sending me a hand brake band off of a '34 Plymouth (part numbers match and the photo looks right). Cost is reimbursement for shipping. This is one part of the hobby I enjoy, fellow old car owners helping each other out. Now when the new lining and rivets arrive, I can get everything back together and back on the road. Looks like the most expensive part of this will be the new floor mat (the current one I cobbled together about 40 years ago and it fell apart as I removed it from the car).

Sorry Mike wrong time of the year. I already have an appointment in Dana Point. Let's see......a hot muggy swap meet and you guys.....or a sleek 30 foot lady and a day's fishing out on the big blue? I guess I really am not much of a motorhead after all. . Jeff

Not all the sinks have to meet access requirements. There can be a compliant sink off-camera. One has to be able to run a wheelchair under the sink, have the controls accessible to someone with impaired hand function, the water has to be tempered so someone won't scald the hands, the water lines have to be insulated so a person without feeling in the legs won't get burned, and so forth. As an architect, the requirements seemed burdensome and excessive, but on the other hand, someday I or someone I love may be unable to walk, grasp a faucet, or feel hot and cold in the hands or legs. So maybe someone will come up with a handicap version of the re-purposed tires and gas nozzles.

Your second option makes the most sense to me. If it starts to leak a lot, I would probably sell it. Of course, spending your money is easy for me.

Raised shower, run your shower drain to the sink drain line above grade.......no more than a foot should suffice.

"Interested"? of course we are. We all suffer from the same disease here ...