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The biggest oiling system improvement for our flatheads is adding a full flow oil filter. A bit of searching should find details of the easiest method that involves drilling a couple of holes in the block above the oil pump. I did mine differently by using a modified hydrive engine oil pump and eliminating the crossover pipe in the oil pan; my oil goes from the pump to an external oil filter and pressure regulator, then across the back of the firewall and back into the block where the original pressure regulator used to be. My way requires modifications to the block, the oil pan and the oil pump, and doesn't gain much over the less complicated way of doing it. 50plymouth had asked for details on the rest of my engine. I think the only stock parts in it are the crankshaft, the lifters and the valvesprings. The rods are stock ones that have had the sides ground down, polished and balanced. The pistons are custom forged 9 to 1 Venolias using a modern Toyota ring set. The block was bored to piston size using a torque plate that we made for it. All of the ports in the block were smoothed out and matched to the gasket size. It has bronze valve guides with cut down Chevy V-8 valves for both intake and exhaust. The cam is a mild regrind, the head is a polished Edmunds. Intake is a polished Edmunds with Carter-Weber carbs on Stovebolt adapters with a homemade air cleaner based on an O'Brien Trucking top cover. The throttle linkage I made using an extruded aluminum mount with pillow bearings and anodized aluminum arms. Exhaust is handled by a set of cast iron headers into a 2 inch dual exhaust system. ignition is the Stovebolt HEI. I've no idea of actual horsepower, but I'd guess at maybe 150 or so. It's a fun drive, and I love the reactions I get when people see it. Marty

All of this should have been PM'ed Tim. I know you have helped people here during your short, but very active stay here on the forum but this thread seems to be nothing but an infomercial for selling your products. I haven't looked yet but have you considered posting your goodies up in the for sale section? That's where they belong.

Marty - I for one would like to hear about your 230. I don't care if your guessing at its horsepower or if its been dyno'd. Id put my car up against an Echo if the driver looked slow to react at the lights however that's it for racing. You will therefore have a faster car I am sure. I thought this forum was for guys telling us what they had done and have fun with it. I was excited by this topic, but sad to see the stock guys trying to rain on the parade. I wont be driving hundreds of miles a day. I don't care if it uses tons of gas. I only drive my car a few thousand a summer. If this is just about guys demanding dyno reports and drag racing tickets to post without getting attacked then this forum is not for me. I would however like to hear about your modified 230 because I will certainly learn something.

A man named Julian Stahl can take an 18 horsepower Kohler flathead and make more than 100 horsepower with it. The Chrysler six cylinder L-heads are probably better designs. Mr Stahl manufacturers many of the components himself, even casting strengthened cast iron blocks. Its just a lawn mower engine to most people, but Stahl far exceeds the expectations. I think he might have gotten more than 100 hp from simple L-heads. I don't think he experiences much parts breakage. The 1953-69 Harley Davidson KR is also an impressive L-head. There is a lot of potential in the Chrysler flatheads, no doubt about that.

Here is the link to the first start!

Hi all; Just curious, has any research been done on just how many of our truck have survived the crusher? I wonder how many trucks out of the thousands that were made are driveable or being restored. I would imagine that is a difficult numer to come up with. I have to think the number is 4 digits. Brad

Did someone say 'French Toast'??? Mark, this cannot be over rated if it is made properly, accompanied be fresh brewed coffee, drowned in butter, a spoonful of blueberry jam, with a layer of maple surple and a half dozen of those little breakfast sausages. Under rated, perhaps...over rated, never. And what the heck is the 'Gonya Method"?

Use a drift punch. Suggest you bolt the bell housing back up to the block so everything is square. Then use the drift punch to drive the pins out.

I don't know if its the record but it is 45° here in MN today!

Hang on there Mark, Hope you do have a fireplace and enough chopped firewood to keep the family warm in case of blackout? Keep posting so that we know you're not entirely buried in snow. We heard, that ca. 600 flights were cancelled to to the approaching blizzard. Also Finnair cancelled the flights to N.Y. & Boston tonight and tomorrow. Best wishes from Finland, stay safe! /Pekka

thanks Marty, that's what I am talking about. thank you. sorry for dumb questions that follow. rods ground down is that to reduce weight ? custom forged venolias with modern Toyota rings. is there someone you can buy those ? 20 years ago I could find forged and cast pistons. Now I don't see forged and not much in cast even. whats a torque plate ? got any pictures of your air cleaners. I cant picture them but they sound cool.

1941 Plymouth P12 looks like a 1941 Plymouth P12 Since there is so little to go by from the picture The ivory colored rectangular trim (with the red vertical stripes) on the door (inside garnish molding deducing that this is the only car I know with that exact trim 1941 Plymouth P12

Spent the weekend getting one side of the green sleds front disc conversion completed. Wondering? Anyone interested <edit: deleted mention of parts for sale> I am also doing a 12 V conversion and <edit: deleted mention of parts for sale> <Edit: Please place buy/selling items in classified area>

Well Juno ju don't hafta wait till you get all three feet. When we used to get plastered with a lake effect dump I would have two or three runs at it while it was coming down. Then could more easily deal with the last bit after the storm passed. Besides that way I had 3 or4 opportunities for a snifter of brandy.......And if you look at these northeasters it is similar to lake effect as the storm gets its enhanced moisture content from the Atlantic instead of lake Ontario.. Good luck, all stocked up with French toast ingredients?

Thank´s for the feed back on this one. Please note this seller is located in Norway, Europe. And so am I. Every thing car related are more expensive over here. I will say that $ 2000 equals a $ 1500 buy in the US. (25% tax and $100 to $120 shipping on top of the $ 1500) I guess installing this parts mostly will add to the cool factor. I think also it´s a good idea to make a sales contract regarding the parts being in undamaged condition. (I just learn the hard way after buying a "turn key" Ford flathead V8 from a running car. When I open it up the block was cracked all over and is not usable)

My '49 Plymouth Business coupe driving project.

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check your float level to start with and while the top is off, check the carb gasket surfaces for flatness with a staightedge

I agree with Rich below in terms of conditions of the head. Now my two cents assuming everything is good.. easy one first.. The air cleaners are off chev pickup trucks. You can get actual air cleaners for them we have some in stock and I love the air cleaners. cleaned up and painted they go from $75-$150 each.. so I would call those $150. The carbs, are just carbs to rebuild for me, and what is that worth.. I will let others call that but my range $20-$40 for the pair. The intake, has the definite cool factor. They do get more rev but loose torque, so in terms of performance there are better, such as a Edmunds. That intake is the absolute last of the tattersfield, because unlike the one on ebay, you will notice it has the linkage tabs built in. That helps in terms of linkage but its setup for something that has linkage on the head side. The intake and linkage which look good there are in my mind $350-500 in value. The exhaust, Id like to see the other side on what you have. They may have made dual exhaust but in tattersfield, I have never seen on. On the head.. I have seen them, I have had one on the car. Assuming its in good condition, they are great heads.. I can look up more info on the cc of the head, because I do know guys shaved them to push up the compression. In terms of value, they are equal to an Edmunds in my mind,and does not have the over heating issue as at least one other aluminum head I have seen. Retail I have seen those heads within the last 24 months going in the $300-$700 range. So the exhaust aside and you can my dual exhaust made from stock intake in integrated or headers from George Asche for $175 or reproduction headers which are as good as originals from Tom Langdon for $340 Without seeing what you have there, I would go in that range.. $175 - $350. When I add it all up, I don't blame the guy for asking for $2000 for it all, but I think he has quite a premium on that grouping.. I see $1015 - $1750 absolutely top end. If I was speculating unless the guy has that head magnifluxed for cracks and there would still have to be no repairs, threads all good, head not warped.. I would be offering $1250 if I really wanted it and $1500 would be top of the mark if I wanted it for me vehicle and $1500 would be as much for the cool factor of an all tattersfield package. Tim

These are the pictures I said I would post. Thank you!

Charbroiled is even closer....... and definitely not everyone's taste in trucks.

and i googled "goggled". to whit: gog·gle ˈɡäɡəl/ verb past tense: goggled; past participle: goggled look with wide open eyes, typically in amazement or wonder. "“What in the world are you goggling at ?”" (of the eyes) protrude or open wide. i suppose one could goggle the tatian massauge?

after Tucker went tits up he decided to play with a rear engine Plymouth..hey...it could have happened (...my time to grandstand...)

Okay, happy now?!?!

Also have the seller verify in writing that the head is level and is not warped and is not cracked or repaired and that all thread are good and there are not messed up threads? Also that all head bolt holes are not out of round. Also have him run a flat edge on the manifold to verify that the manifold is not warped. If warped then it will need to be planed to get it perfectly flat across the entire unit also the same with the head. So buyer be ware of any potential issues. So you have $2000 in parts and what is this going to do for the car? It might go a little faster make it look like a supped up engine but you still have the 40 suspension and braking system, unless that has already been updated. I am not trying to be sarcastic but think about the first outlay of cash and then the additional funds needed to install the parts and the additional setup costs versus just running with what you have now on the car. You could use these funds maybe for an upgrade to interior or chrome of other issues. These are just my 50 cents worth of input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I finished the other rocker chrome moulding drv side this week.. whole lot of hours in both mouldings.. 2 weeks worth . metal finishings all the dents, dings and creases takes alot of time . since these rocker mouldings are not available for the short wheel base dodge anywhere (" be leave me I tried searching ") I had to repair what I had and I saved a bunch of $$$ doing it my self to boot . They look real nice ! OK .... what's next on the agenda !

I have tried to do a nice job on details, wish I had the funds to do the body, but for now I at least got the mechanical stuff fixed, and the interior. I have been lubing all bolts as I put them in as saw on another poat someone recomended that. As far as the posts on break in. Marv, at the machine shop told me to warm it up, change rpms (not just idle), since it isn't drivable yet. He also had me use an additive high in zinc, which is to be changed at 1000 miles. It sounds amazing at all levels, no rattle or clanking anywhere:)

Transmission and clutch in today, both work, yippie!

Wow! I never saw a car with the intake mounted to the trunk like that.

My spare engine is from a 1956 Dodge. Listed at around 132hp. Big jump from my 80hp engine in my 38 Coupe. This photo is the intake after I spent some time on it.

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My lights are working, got my alternator repaired, new firewall sound/heat panel in, glass tomorrow, new front tires, so I'm getting ready for the run up to Yosemite, then Jamestown, then Clements. So, big Dave is coming? GREAT, lots of fun.

Great balls of fire.....it RUNS!!!! Dolly Dodge fired and ran on the first start attempt. I had a few leaks around the waterpump(whivch I installed) but those are now resolved. Very exciting, I will post a video tomorrow. I can't believe it.

" . . . un-holstered my six shooter. . "?? Braggen or staten facts!

I'll get some this weekend.