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As promised, a couple of pictures from today's Pion Era days at the Museum.

I see that Andy Bernbaum, under new ownership, is now advertising on the forum. I also received an email from the P15/D24 forum about this change and the fact that Bernbaum's is giving a 10% discount on all orders if you mention the P15/D24 forum. This runs to July 31. I needed some new spark plug wires so I phoned to order. Order was taken quickly, service was polite, and the wires will go in the mail today. The 10% discount was given also. If you need anything for your vehicle, it might be worth looking at their online catalogue. I am not promoting Bernbaum's over any other supplier but if prices are similar in their catalogues, 10% can be a nice saving.

The time has come to give my Windsor's carb a re-build. Thought I would share a step by step to help others in the future. This is my first time to rebuild a carter so any pointers or addtions will be welcomed. This is what I am starting out with. Very dirty after all these years! First of course, is to remove the air cleaner. My car has the automatic choke and the next is disconnecting the electrical connections. The one on top is a simple bullet plug. The one on the side requires that you remove two small screwsand pull the wire from inside the carb. There are two linkage rods that come next. On the back side is the accellorator and on the side is the choke connection. Accellorator linkage Choke linkage red arrow shows the choke linkage. It is removed by unclipping the clamp shown in the next photo with the arrows. I placed it back on the rod after i disconnected it to keep it from getting lost.

Many site visitors appear to arrive with the pre-conceived opinion that some technologies because they are old, are outdated, obsolete and functionally replaced by newer technology. Case in point are two common forum topics, oil bath air cleaners and bypass oil filters. Both these technologies have been around for many decades and in fact perform better than the "newer" technologies of full flow spin-on oil filters and paper air filters. Let take a closer look at both. 
 I ride and wrench on dirt bikes and quads for fun. I mostly ride in the California coastal mountains, noted for dry, hot and very dusty conditions. All my machines use oil soaked foam air filters because they are more effective than paper filters. When our cars and trucks were first sold dirt roads were the norm, not the exception. Chrysler used the most cost effective solution of the day, oil bath air cleaners. They provide very effective cleaning and unrestricted air flow. They are easy and cheap to maintain. So why would you want to change to a less effective and more expensive paper air filter? Most common reason is they are a lot of maintenance and the oil spills out of the pan and into the carb. Both reasons are not very good! Back in the 40's and 50's vehicle owners drove on a lot (including the occasional oil/pcp waste oil covered) on dirt roads and you needed to maintain oil bath air filters on a regular basis. Today we just drive on pavement. I personally have seen the air filter oil go two years in service and still have clear clean oil in the filter pan. The extra maintenance argument doesn’t hold for today’s use. I have driven mopar flatheads since 1968. I have never seen a properly serviced oil bath air cleaner leak oil into the carb or on the engine. If yours puked oil over the engine then you overfilled the air cleaner oil pan. Pretty simple solution to that problem! And don't forget oil bath air cleaners do a better job of feeding your engine clean filter air than a paper filter while being cheaper to maintain. One for old tech!



 Now lets move to often maligned bypass filter. This is the source of so many incorrect internet myths the conversation becomes funny. "They only filter part of your engine oil..." or "Look at how small the piping is, how can it clean all the oil" and "It take forever for all your oil to go through a bypass filter". The best myth is full flow spin on filters do a better job of filtering than bypass filters. None of the above statement are true. First a brief explanation of how a bypass filter works. Your oil system is a closed system under pressure created by the oil pump. Oil circulates through the engine in the oil gallery. You can see the galley running along the driver’s side of the engine. This pressurized oil flow provides lubrication to main, rod and cam bearing so the journals actually "float" on a thin film of oil so they don't overheat and fail. This pressurized oil system also has a safety valve in case oil pressure gets too high, the oil pressure relief valve. The bypass oil filter taps into the oil gallery and dirty oil is piped to the bypass filter under pressure. (The same pressure your see on your oil pressure gauge). It is then filtered and readied for return to the oil pan. Bypass filters actually filter much smaller particles than full flow spin-on filters. Full flow filters are plumbed to directly feed oil to the mains and they have to pass high volumes of oil or the bearing will fail. As a result they can't filter to the same degree as a bypass filter. When the clean oil exits a bypass filter it goes back to the oil pan via the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve acts as an oil traffic cop, that is, if the engine oil pressure is high enough the pressure relief valve opens and clean oil flows back to the oil pan. If oil pressure is low, like at idle, the valve stays shut maintaining minimum safe engine oil pressure bypassing clean oil return from the bypass filter setup. Now lets address a couple of the myths. Think about how often your engine runs with minimum oil pressure. That is the only time clean oil is not returning to the oil pan from the filter. Basically anytime above idle and your bypass filter is working. What about those skinny oil lines, they can't move much oil, right? Wrong! The oil in moving under 20-60 pounds of pressure. On my B1 I once had a cracked (not broken) oil return line. I lost over 3 quarts in about 45 seconds. Based on that measure I thing it is safe to say all engine oil is being filtered every couple minutes the engine is above idle. Modern full flow filters for modern engines must be able to pass large volumes of oil to provide full lubrication for mains and rods, plus have a bypass when the filters are dirty and clogged. They just don't filter dirty oil as well as a bypass filter. Bypass filters are still used extensively on long haul trucks, plus their are many aftermarket kits to add a functional bypass filter setup to modern engines. Why? They do a better job of filtering then a full flow filter!

 Lastly, what about those remote mount kits for using a spin-on filter instead of the stock bypass system? They basically replace the bypass filter with an easier to change spin-on filter. My question is why would you want to replace a very efficient bypass filter with a spin on that typically allows particles 3 times larger to be returned to the oil pan? 

Like I said, old technology doesn't always mean obsolete technology! And if your engine doesn't have a bypass filter setup we have used units for sale in the P15-D24 Store. They also show up on eBay all the time.

I like my '38 gauges too much to change anything, but I always admired the bakelite dash in the slightly newer ('41,'42?) New Yorkers. I couldn't do the real thing, but "Hydro-Graphics" got me a satisfying (to me) look:

I checked the web site & it looks like they may be a place to check out, thanks for the info. In case your wondering this is the reason it took so long to install the black grill, I just got the cast zinc grill medallion back from chrome shop.

Worn timing chain is easy to check. Just pull the crank around to TDC. Pop off the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing. Mark the position. Then, revearse crank rotation while watching the rotor. As soon as it moves, stop and look at the timing marks on the crank. Take note of the diff between TDC and when you observed the rotor move. If the diff is 0-5 degrees, the chain is good. 6 to 9 and it's getting sloppy. More then that and it will be hard to start and be down on power. Replace the chain and gears. You can support the engine at the oil pan or from overhead to disasemble the front of the engine to access the timing components.

File Name: Mopar 802 Radio Custom Controls Installation Instructions File Submitter: VintageMoParts File Submitted: 14 Jul 2013 File Category: Instructions, Manuals & Templates Mopar 802 Radio Custom Controls Installation Instructions Part No. 1161462 for use with Model 802 Radio on 1946 and 1942 Dodge Click here to download this file

You might have seen my thread on re-building my Carter BB with automatic choke. Dispite what I though to be good photos of the process, I have run into 2 snags as I re-assemble the carb. I have a question about the gasket on the fuel bowl. Ther is a part circled in red below. Does it sit above or below the gasket? Photo A or B Photo A Photo B With the re-build kit I received a new fuel inlet nut that seems to differ from the original. The new one appears to be one piece while the old one had a part the slides in and out freely as the float rises. Is the one that came in the kit for another application or a replacement? The little ball on the new one is very hard to push in. Thanks for your help.

Hi Andrea, and welcome to the forum. I have a 1950 Canadian build Dodge Fargo ute...nearly finished panel located Nowra 2541 nsw

"He got the junk yard attitude" I think that is so true!! As my mini junk yard grows and I find myself fighting more bees and varmits.....I get a little "proud" of the part I've yanked out of there. Once in awhile you run arcross a guy who doesn't appreciate that hard work and/or changes their mind about what they want. That's when your skin gets a little tougher I think. I hope I never get to far gone, but there is something about those older guys who have a big junk yard and know where every nut and bolt is..... As far as AB goes, I've had good luck with them and look forward to the new guys. Better then having the place shut down in my opinion. 48D

Go for it, worst case you have to sleep in the truck for a few nights... I've seen a couple Utes that were shipped over at car shows on the west coast of the USA. I'd love to get my hands on one. They look really nice with a restored/modernized vintage camper behind them. I'd say the original poster's silver one is about as close to perfect as you are likely to find. Maybe add some nicely sealed and polished gumwood or eucalyptis burl trimmings and enjoy driving it.

It's pretty much the same deal here in Oz - Ford and Chev trucks seem to fetch ridiculous prices in comparison to those that fly the MOPAR banner!

Truthfully She is worth the buy it now price, atleast here in the States! I do not know how Dodge hold up against Ford & Holden in Australia? But if it is the same as in the States, with Few exceptions Dodge is the underdog, But that only means that we can own them for less then the rest!

if this is $7,000 then you are sitting on a fortune http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1938-Ford-ute-pickup-Whole-car-pieces-less-drive-train-/261242531190?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3cd344ad76

Really nice truck. I would love to have one like that for our small farm produce hauling needs. Much more eye catching market truck han an American 1/2 ton.

Wow....What a mighty fine Ute! I often wonder if I'll ever get chance to see one. Anyone here in the States have one? welcome to our forum Andrea!....can't wait to see it comes together for ya. 48D

Maybe it's time for a career change ............... nahhhhh!!! Better stick to my day job so I can afford my evening / weekend "job" !!!

Is this easier than doctoring?

I buried the needle on the speedometer on mine last night they should have added another color to the prism on the base of the needle when it hits 100