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VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-4 on the FB

SURVIVOR: spotted this C-1 north of Hugoton KS during the 15hr odyssey taken on a return trip where most of the TX and OK Panhandles were iced over

I participated in the insanity that everyone seemed to be doing this last weekend. I got some pics, sadly mostly blurry trying to hold the phone still enough for the light capture. I was hoping for a cool pic with the truck in foreground, but alas...blurry. But here ya go, post what you may have gotten!

Yes HUGE coronal mass ejections....seems to be a 20 or year cycle. I'll post a thread for the north side.

Ed, glad to see you got a bit of time for yourself and the truck project.

1933 Ford Pickup Truck On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/176376693670?

Dorman part is $14.13/10ea on Amazon.

I am glad you fixed it but, since several things seem to have been replaced at once, we'll probably never know what the issue was

I’m one of the Admin’s of the POC Facebook page.

re: welding cast iron: I've mentioned this here on the forum before, but a friend of mine in Brazil, a Swiss-Argentine guy, welded his exhaust manifold with a common stick welder by heating the entire piece to cherry red in a home-made forge, then quick welded it while it was still red hot. (His dad taught him how to do it.)

I agree, crap in the fuel entering the carburetor can plug up the jets and cause a lean running condition .... and a back fire simply because it needs more fuel. Good call on your mechanic, keep his phone number handy. I also am experiencing a similar condition ..... also I changed some wiring and need to troubleshoot which is causing the issue .... sadly I will not touch it for a couple months at this point.

The cause of the backfire. The guy who came over gave a convincing explanation of how the carb could be the cause and it def needed a rebuild. In any event, the carbs back in, I've put in new plugs, cap/rotor and she's starting right up and running smooth with no issues so far.

I'm with you brother .... Pretty dirty what they did to you ..... same time it has been going on since the industrial revolution a 100 years ago. .... Legally. Not saying I agree with it ..... I simply will not deal with them either. Spare parts are great to have, and it takes time or years to collect them as they become available. Then you still need to store them. I bought a home made utility trailer for parts .... I assume I may have a decent rear end or spare drums, I have spare original wheels .... the sheet metal, tailgate is much better than what my truck has ..... So far I have taken the fill plug off of it and replaced it with my crappy one. Just not easy to have a parts car or a 1/2 a truck trailer around ..... at least my trailer doubles as a bin for scrap metal and call up a scrapper from time to time to empty it. Not everyone wants this stuff lying around or a HOA will not allow it.

I just took the link above and submitted request to join. Right below that it shows some of the admins. Looks like you can click on that and submit a message. Try signing into you Facebook first then try the link.

For anyone reading this, keep an eye out for hot-rodders who are replacing the drivetrain. Pick up a complete front and rear axle assy for nearly nothing. I did, and parted them out. I have 4 spare 10” drums for my ‘38 Plymouth. Another 4 spare 11” drums for my Chrysler. I threw out another 4 spares. Too many to keep. Nobody wants to pay freight charges from Canada for these heavy parts.

One of the admins must have blocked me accidentally. Anyone know any of the administrators?

The group is still active, I just joined. Try clearing your browser cache then try the link again.

Update, seems Old Parts dosn't list a phone number so E Mail. The reply to does it fit a 39 is “yes it does” from Dan. So this sounds like the best option so far. Seems to be a few posts on E Bay for this drum, one as low as $95 plus 20 to ship. Not cheap but reasonable. Did a test fit on the Mopar Pro drum, fits perfectly. Waiting for the welder at work to braze the old drum, should be tomorrow. Steve

Yes. When I follow the link it says not available on my end.

Ok so now 2 people has seen the crank stamped. ..... In my mind it would be much simpler to just stamp the crank then to stamp individual bearing caps? I know nothing about the history of my motor, other than it was the kids Grandfather truck and was parked in the barn for decades. The fuel pump was missing. Tear down & inspection, I just assume it has been rebuilt at some point because the bearings show zero wear and crank is stamped. To be honest the stock cylinder bores match the bearings ..... Grandpa the owner was a farmer, maybe as his personal rig he rarely drove it .... except to church on Sundays?

Are you referring to Plymouth Owners Club ? It's still up.

WAPSA IAT 1035 dizzy plate. View Advert Hi all.I am looking for a used WAPSA IAT 1035 dizzy plate for my 1952 CHRYSLER 251 six engine.Best Regards. Advertiser Fernando Mendes Date 05/13/2024 Price Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

Anyone know what happened to the Facebook group? It was a wealth of knowledge and seems to have disappeared

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge Panel on the FB