Removing Rear Brake Drums

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[billwillard]

Loosen wheel nuts 1/2 turn. After reinstalling cater pins drive until you hear a pop. You'r drum is now loose.

BILL

[pflaming]

Loosen bolts and drive, so simple. Reminds me of the little boy who told the engineers that it would be easier to let the air our of the truck tires to get the truck jammed under the bridge, then it would be to lift the bridge. Great idea, is it for real or am I a candidate for some "shore front property in Florida?:

[billwillard]

Don't knock it till you try it. Have done this for 50 years.

BILL

[Mr. Belvedere]

I always thought that you needed one of those three leg pullers to get them off

like they show in my shop manual. That would be terrific if all you have to do is loosen them, put the pins back like Bill says and then drive and listen for the pop

That will save some bucks on buying an expensive tool! Richard

[Plymouthy Adams]

Great idea, is it for real or am I a candidate for some "shore front property in Florida?:

We can get you a good deal on Forida beach property right here in South Georgia..it is just a matter of time before the Florida panhandle slips into the gulf...less money out your pocket..however you must have patience...

[1948 dodge fink cigar car]

i still cant get the brake drum off the rear i got the puller and it dont work all it did was strip my

lugnuts so now i need to get new studs somplace and i still can fix my brakes any one hve info, im getting married in 1 week and im leaving in my dodge ifi can get it working

[coW52Dodge]

i still cant get the brake drum off the rear i got the puller and it dont work all it did was strip my

lugnuts so now i need to get new studs somplace and i still can fix my brakes any one hve info, im getting married in 1 week and im leaving in my dodge ifi can get it working

Last December I bought an extra rear end that just would not let go of the drums either. I sprayed it with Kroil and left the puller on for a couple of days. When I got back to it, I continued smacking the drum with a dead blow hammer and pounded on the puller's hammerhead some more - all to no avail.

My baby deadblow hammer snapped off in the head, in fact.

Someone in another forum suggested I get a section of brass stock (I had a foot and a half), put it on the drum near the spindle and hit that with a mallet. The thought process is that the resonance of the brass stock helps loosen it all. I also smacked the hammerhead and the drum, like was done before.

It eventually popped loose with an ominous crack. Not absolutely sure if the brass stock did the trick or not - maybe it was my persistence, maybe it was the full size dead blow hammer - but it did come off.

[billwillard]

Go to my earler post. It will work.

[jsturner]

The "driving with loose axle nuts" trick didn't work for me- even doing tight circles as fast as I could, and driving fast on rough roads. I then tried a puller rented from Kragen, but all it did was strip my lug bolt holes. I suspect this was because the puller was designed for a smaller bolt circle and thus put some bending moment on the lug bolts.

I concluded that I needed a beefier puller and got a Springfield Professional Three-Arm hub puller (the 600, not the 400). JC Whitney has it here.

Anyway, after soaking everything in PB Blaster and greasing the puller threads and the bearing surface on the end of the axle, I installed the puller on the hub and started tightening it down. This puller is fairly thin around the lug bolt holes, so unlike with the Kragen puller, the lug bolts can go all the way in, reducing the danger of stripping out the holes. It's also designed for a bolt circle about the size of ours.

The key here is not to apply a huge amount of force with the puller. Instead, tighten the puller down quite hard, but not hard enough to break anything. Then hit the head of the puller screw with a smallish sledgehammer, in the axial direction. The impact will, with luck, break the hub loose from the axle. It may take several minutes of hitting. As everyone says, keep the axle nut loose on the axle, lest the hub fly off and injure you when it breaks loose. Also, hitting the puller screw will cause its head to mushroom, so make sure you already have the included wrench thing on the head, or you'll never get it on again.

Good luck!

[Plymouthy Adams]

also can do internal damage to the carier..this practice is advised against in the repair manual..do not recommend this approach..user take caution..

[jsturner]

Agreed Tim, I wouldn't do this unless driving with loose axle nuts and just using the puller the normal way doesn't work. And be patient and hit it gently with a small hammer!

From the manual:

Do not strike end of axle shaft to loosen hub because of possible damage to axle shaft and roller bearings.

I think this is intended for those who would try to skip the puller and just use a giant hammer. Still, yes, last resort method!

[old stovebolt]

Anyone ever try heating 'em up a little?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Have removed hundreds of them over the years. Use a quality puller and don't be a "Pansy"! Never had to wait on one. In the shop get-er done-now. Never stripped one or needed heat either. They always come off. I tighten the screw up really tight with an impact holding the puller with one hand to absorb impact shock. Then tighten some more by banging on the dogbone. Wack the screw end a couple times-tighten the screw up more-repeat if necessary and BANG-off she comes. The early 60's Chryslers are the really hard ones to get off, but they too come off. Got to let the car know who's in charge! Keep the nut on the axle if you don't want to hold the drum with your hand to stop the drum from flying across the shop!!!

[Guest P15-D24]

First make sure both the major and minor adjusters are full backed off. If it still won't come off remove the bolts on the major adjusters, tap the bolts inward towards the drum till the shoe comes off the adjuster "shoulder". That way the shoe is full retracted from the drum. Then remove the drum with the correct puller. No need for heat or big hammer.

[slogger147]

I tried both ways finally on my 1950 dodge b2b sheared off the rivets the were holding it on with a chisle and used the puller agian bent the drum because its rusted on got my freinds old axle of his 51 dodge and smaked the back of the tires while it was still attached and bingo off it came

[slogger147]

I've tried both ways with the front and this time I don't have a spare set so what is the eaisest way to get the front brake drums off my 1950 dodge

[TodFitch]

I've tried both ways with the front and this time I don't have a spare set so what is the eaisest way to get the front brake drums off my 1950 dodge

Prying off the dust cap, removing the cotter pin, removing the nut and then rocking the wheel back and forth to loosen the bearings isn't working?

[Don Coatney]

Prying off the dust cap, removing the cotter pin, removing the nut and then rocking the wheel back and forth to loosen the bearings isn't working?

If what Tod suggests does not work then you brake shoes are adjusted too tight. Back off on the minor shoe adjustment cam. The drum should then come off very easily. No puller required. Using a puller on the front drums will most likely cause damage such as bent shoes or other parts.

[homer2105]

I have a 48 D24. I have no brakes at all. Have it up on jack stands with front drums off (they came off easy). I have master cyl off, cleaned up, painted waiting for rebuild kit. I have been battling the rear drums. I have a six inch 3 jaw puller from Harbor Freight that the fingers on the end fit under the flange that the lug bolts come out of. I've heated the drum, but not red hot, squirted a bunch of PB Blaster on it everytime I walk by it, banged it with a hammer, (both drum and axle). I've got this puller really cranked down and am afraid somethings going to give. I hope it's going to be the brake drum coming off. I couldn't do the suggestion of driving it as I had no pedal at all. Is there something I should be loosening on the back of the brake plate? Thanks, Slapz.

[Young Ed]

You need a puller that bolts to where the lugbolts do. Not quite sure if thats what you have from your description. You can also loosen the adjusters from the back but sometimes bad wheel cylinders wont compress or the springs are broken.

[TodFitch]

... I have a six inch 3 jaw puller from Harbor Freight that the fingers on the end fit under the flange that the lug bolts come out of. ....

You need a puller that bolts to where the lugbolts do. Not quite sure if thats what you have from your description. You can also loosen the adjusters from the back but sometimes bad wheel cylinders wont compress or the springs are broken.

Young Ed is correct. You need something like this. And you need to have the axle nut loosely on the shaft to so that the drum won't fly off and to keep the puller from damaging the end of the axle. See: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/

[homer2105]

Looked at 3 drum pullers on ebay and NAPA also has them but they are a bit pricey to pull two drums off. See my attached pic (if I can get it) Notice the prongs are behind the flange and the center bolt is on axle. Haven't tried loosening adjusters yet. Never mind I don't know how to post pics. If your really interested give me your email addr and I can send pics there or someone tell me how to post a pic. I have it in "My Documents".

[TodFitch]

Looked at 3 drum pullers on ebay and NAPA also has them but they are a bit pricey to pull two drums off. See my attached pic (if I can get it) Notice the prongs are behind the flange and the center bolt is on axle. Haven't tried loosening adjusters yet. Never mind I don't know how to post pics. If your really interested give me your email addr and I can send pics there or someone tell me how to post a pic. I have it in "My Documents".

This is one case where you really do need the right tool. Maybe you can find someone local to you to loan you the required puller. That is one really good thing about being a member of a local car club. I think the Lincoln Land Region of the Plymouth Owners Club may not be too far from you. Or if you are in northern Illinois, maybe the Dairyland Region would not be too far.

[Plymouthy Adams]

usually these are available to rent through your local parts house...you place a deposit..same as purchase price, bring the tool back when finished..money refunded...works this way here in my area...have you tried your locals for availability to rent?