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Removing Rear Brake Drums

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I have a puller similar to the fourth one pictured. Was my grandpas and just like the one I used as a kid 50 years ago when there were more of these fine automobiles around

Always had success whacking the barbell with a hammer, until My 1940 Chrysler.


a 3/4 inch impact wrench took care of that problem.


Made a heck of a bang when the taper finally let go!

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  • 1 month later...

I prefer the 5 holes drum puller because you then get an even pull on all of the lugs or bolts.  On the chrysler and desoto rear drum there was a mounting pin or small nipple or point that was used to hold the rim onto the drum because they used bolts instead of lugs.  So if you have the Chryslers or desoto then you need to have the puller if it is a 5 lug it also has to have the hole for the pin.. In the attached picture is the rear drum puller that I have and notice that at the 12 o clock position is the slot for the pin and the slots to the left and right are for the lug bolts.  I have never had a rear drum that I can not pull with this puller. It is very similar to the factory Miller rear drum puller

I do not like the three arm puller because you are then pulling not equally on the drum and have a tendancy to pull on an angle instead of straight outwards.

Rich Hartung 



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  • 2 years later...

1948 B1-B Pickup.  Has anyone had any problem getting the rear hubs back on the vehicle??  I have reduced the brake adjusters as low as they will go.   My problem may be from changing out the wheel cylinders.  I replaced the old ones with new ones.  The new ones are supposed to be an "exact fit".  The new cylinders seem to look the same. 

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This is such a common issue with these import new wheel cylinders...

They are NOT an exact fit.

The new chinese wheel cylinders (if new stock) have taller height pistons and cups and can cause this problem.

Also combined with using  original long style push rods makes it near impossible to get the drums back on with std size drums and near new thick linings.

I assume you are just replacing the cylinders and not your old shoes...

And have fully backed off the shoes using the big nut adjusters.

So a few ideas...

*Make sure your push rods are the shorter style.

*Make the slot in the push rod deeper

*Swap pistons old to new if same style and check height of new old piston cups

*Re-adjust anchor pivot bolts...this will change wear of your old worn in shoe lining and pedal firmness feel

*turn drums...extreme measure option

*********Make sure linings are not over .200" thick..if over cut lining thickness down...machine shop

*Search this forum thoroughly as this is a such a common issue today.

There are pictures on this forum and others showing the push rod, wheel cylinder pistons, cups and push rod styles.


Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Spec mistake
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