Questions on 54 C-1 truck project

[888]

10 hours ago, JBNeal said:

NGK is good, so are Autolite and AC...I soured on Champion decades ago, but other ppl have been satisfied with that product. 

 

additional information - flathead tech

Thanks!  Not sure how I missed that link, thought I had scoured all of them.

[888]

I pulled the plugs last night and put some MMO in the cylinders.  The existing plugs were Autolite B5's with electrodes in good condition, looks like these are fairly old plugs based on a web search.  They all looked the same in each cylinder, black and dry which I assume is carbon fouling. 

 

My replacement ignition cylinder with key should be here this weekend and I'll try to get some new plugs by then as well. Hopefully I'll have some time to work on it.

[888]

I was getting ready to install the new ignition switch and reinstall the plugs and realized that the oil filter housing is missing.  Don't ask me how I missed it, I guess I assumed it was down lower based on more modern cars.  

 

I can see a discoloration where it should have been located and the mounting screws were there but loose.  The coil appears to be mounted on one of the bolts where the filter would go but it looks like it could flip around and mount above the distributor.

 

I called the guy and he was up near the school so I drove up there this morning.  There was an oil filter housing laying on the floor on the side of the truck where the oil filter housing would have been connected to the engine so I assumed that was it and drove back home (got the missing wheel cover too).  Didn't see the oil lines, unfortunately. 

 

The bolt pattern on the mounting bracket matches the tapped holes and screws on the head (I have it sitting upside down in the photo) so it should mount just fine. 

 

However, looking at the illustrations the "oil filter" section of the flathead tech links and the photo of the other 54 he had for sale, this one does not look like any of those.  It had a FRAM C3 canister filter in it and the NAPA 1071 that was listed for the 54 C-1 6 cylinder looks like it is the same size as the C3 and fits in the housing.  

 

I think I read somewhere that some trucks had filters added later so maybe this was an aftermarket add on?  Any ideas?

 

The oil pressure gauge is connected directly to one of the galley plugs mentioned in the flathead tech links so it should work but I'd like to get a filter in there.

 

Thanks

Edited March 1 by 888

[Los_Control]

The filters were a option back then .... my truck never had one.

Same time they are a bypass filter system ... so only part of the oil gets filtered .... still better nothing though.

 

On this site is a diagram that shows all the oil galleries and which to use .... maybe someone has a link to it.

I have it downloaded on my other computer and can find it later.

[JBNeal]

hmmm that's odd...that earlier pic posted has the DeLuxe canister, wonder why it was removed...unless they sold it to somebody else for an exorbitant amount, I've seen restorable examples on eBay listing at $250 👀

[Los_Control]

Here it is, finally found it ... might help when hooking yours up.

 

[888]

2 hours ago, JBNeal said:

hmmm that's odd...that earlier pic posted has the DeLuxe canister, wonder why it was removed...unless they sold it to somebody else for an exorbitant amount, I've seen restorable examples on eBay listing at $250 👀

The earlier pic is of the other 54 Dodge truck they had for sale, the beat up truck I started this thread out asking about.  It's not the one I bought.  That is pretty confusing, I'm sure.

 

Here is a link to the post where you commented on that truck. 

 

 

Edited March 1 by 888

[888]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

Here it is, finally found it ... might help when hooking yours up.

 

Thanks!  

 

I was wondering if anyone had seen a housing like the one that apparently goes with my truck.  I put it in the solvent tank to let it soak for a while and see if there is a manufacturer stamped or cast anywhere.

 

It looks like Andy Bierbaum has repro oil canister assemblies like the one in the photo of the other 54 but they are pricey. 

[bkahler]

You might consider just looking for any suitable oil filter housing.  There are a variety out there and most were dealer or owner installed during that time frame.  It's not as if you are breaking protocol

 

 

[888]

True, but if I can find one that "belongs" with the truck, I would go that route.  

 

Looks like there is a pressure relief valve in the circuit that I should install as well, hopefully I can find one of those. 

 

EDIT - looks like this might be it.   https://www.moparpro.com/oil-pressure-relief-valve-1946-1959-plymouth-dodge-desoto-chrysler/p1655

 

There are a few things I've noticed once I started looking closer down there and comparing it to that diagram on the bypass filter....the oil pressure line is connected to a galley plug up by the alternator via a elbow fitting.  There are two plugs that look newer than everything else around it back by the starter.  Looks like there is a new freeze plug down there as well.   Both of these are visible to the right of and below of the coil and to the left of the starter.  

EDIT - looks like one of those plus goes to the filter assembly (additional small photo below) or provides a port for the relief valve/line to the filter (diagram above).

 

You can also see the elbow and hard line to the oil pressure gauge to the left of/below the vacuum advance assembly. 

 

I need to do some more looking around to figure all this out.  There is a lot of information on this site and I think I've barely scratched the surface so the answers may well be on here. 

 

 

Edited March 2 by 888
added link to relief valve and photo of oil line.

[Los_Control]

no idea if it matters ... appears to have the wrong cup plug when it should be a welch plug.

 

I might be wrong, just not sure how well that cup plug will seal .... the sealing surface on the block is small.

The Welch plug you install with the domed side facing out ... then smack it with a hammer inverting the dome side in and the plug expands against the block to seal.

 

Just pointing out how it should be replaced.

Looks like it might have leaked a little in the photo ... they may have enough goop on it to seal it.

If the plug comes out will just be a minute or less to drain all the coolant from the block.

[kencombs]

2 hours ago, 888 said:

True, but if I can find one that "belongs" with the truck, I would go that route.  

 

Looks like there is a pressure relief valve in the circuit that I should install as well, hopefully I can find one of those. 

 

EDIT - looks like this might be it.   https://www.moparpro.com/oil-pressure-relief-valve-1946-1959-plymouth-dodge-desoto-chrysler/p1655

 

There are a few things I've noticed once I started looking closer down there and comparing it to that diagram on the bypass filter....the oil pressure line is connected to a galley plug up by the alternator via a elbow fitting.  There are two plugs that look newer than everything else around it back by the starter.  Looks like there is a new freeze plug down there as well.   Both of these are visible to the right of and below of the coil and to the left of the starter.  

EDIT - looks like one of those plus goes to the filter assembly (additional small photo below) or provides a port for the relief valve/line to the filter (diagram above).

 

You can also see the elbow and hard line to the oil pressure gauge to the left of/below the vacuum advance assembly. 

 

I need to do some more looking around to figure all this out.  There is a lot of information on this site and I think I've barely scratched the surface so the answers may well be on here. 

 

 

That oil pressure relief valve mentioned should be installed behind the bigger plug at the bottom of your pic.   And, probably is, or the engine would have no oil pressure.   That is the key to making a bypass system work, only after the oil pressure/flow needs of the bearings is met does it open and allow oil to flow to the filter.

[888]

3 hours ago, kencombs said:

That oil pressure relief valve mentioned should be installed behind the bigger plug at the bottom of your pic.   And, probably is, or the engine would have no oil pressure.   That is the key to making a bypass system work, only after the oil pressure/flow needs of the bearings is met does it open and allow oil to flow to the filter.

Makes sense, thanks.  I was thinking there would be a banjo fitting type connection on the switch based on the illustration posted above. 

 

In other news, the replacement ignition switch I got from Rock Auto did not fit so I removed the existing switch and will find a locksmith so everything is on hold for a bit.  It will give me time to do some more research on the oil filter system. 

Edited March 2 by 888

[Young Ed]

You should be able to fit a tumbler and key set to your existing switch pretty easily 

[9 foot box]

   Your engine should have a plug wire loom. I put a Fram canister for reference. I put a Wix 24755 adapter to a spin on filter on three of my cars. The oil canister that you pictured is for something else and is missing the center oil return tube. For less than $60 you could put a spin-on bypass filter on the truck. The filters that I was using in the old canisters seemed to fit, but the cap gasket was wrong. The Wix adapter eliminates any guesswork on a replacement filter. I use a NAPA 1320 filter for its smaller profile. Thank You Sam B. for your post on the subject. Rick D.

[kencombs]

Just a word of caution with the spin-on replacements.   There are a lot of filters that will physically fit the adapter.   But, most are not rated for bypass duty, but for full flow.   The bypass filters have a much smaller 'pass' rating, catching stuff that a full flow will let through.   You can buy the bypass replacement for a small diesel to be sure.   For instance the Mitsubishi Fuso 3.9L diesel I had used two filters that looked identical, except for the printed part number.   One for full flow and one for bypass.

 

I think I'll try to replicate that on my 230 just to see if I can.   It's already drilled, tapped and plugged for full flow.   Just have to make the  lines.   Then use a similar mounting base on the  other side for the bypass.  Maybe this year I'll finish.

Edited Monday at 03:55 PM by kencombs

[Merle Coggins]

I have not seen that type of filter canister with a bolt on lid, but if you can identify the proper filter cartridge there's no reason why it won't work for you. As you said, many filters were aftermarket installs on these trucks. You'll need to determine which ports on the filter canister are Inlet and Outlet and make up new lines to connect to your engine. I took your photo and labeled the plugs for you as you seemed unsure how to connect it. 

You may also want to search for the correct coil mounting bracket as this one seems to be home made. 

[888]

6 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

I have not seen that type of filter canister with a bolt on lid, but if you can identify the proper filter cartridge there's no reason why it won't work for you. As you said, many filters were aftermarket installs on these trucks. You'll need to determine which ports on the filter canister are Inlet and Outlet and make up new lines to connect to your engine. I took your photo and labeled the plugs for you as you seemed unsure how to connect it. 

You may also want to search for the correct coil mounting bracket as this one seems to be home made. 

Thanks for the information.  

 

About half the time I search the web for something, a post from this site comes up so I'm trying to do more searching on here before asking questions.

 

Your labels on the photos are really helpful.  I was unsure what the upper port was for, I figured the lower one was coming out of the pressure relief valve.  What has been confusing me is the diagram posted earlier showing the oil filter inlet coming out of #3 pipe plug.  

 

There must be different generations of these engines with different configurations of filter housings and feeds so it's a little hard to know what's what sometimes. 

 

I did find what appears to be an original wire loom on eBay so I can mount the coil as it should be. 

Edited Monday at 10:54 PM by 888

[888]

23 hours ago, Young Ed said:

You should be able to fit a tumbler and key set to your existing switch pretty easily 

That actually wasn't possible.  The existing key and tumbler in the lock was a smaller diameter circle with a "keyway" at the top compared to the replacement I got that was supposed to fit, which was a larger diameter circle with no keyway.  I took it to a local locksmith that does work for us and he's sorting it out. 

[888]

17 hours ago, 9 foot box said:

   Your engine should have a plug wire loom. I put a Fram canister for reference. I put a Wix 24755 adapter to a spin on filter on three of my cars. The oil canister that you pictured is for something else and is missing the center oil return tube. For less than $60 you could put a spin-on bypass filter on the truck. The filters that I was using in the old canisters seemed to fit, but the cap gasket was wrong. The Wix adapter eliminates any guesswork on a replacement filter. I use a NAPA 1320 filter for its smaller profile. Thank You Sam B. for your post on the subject. Rick D.

 

 

Thanks for the response.  I found a wire loom on eBay that looks like the design on the "other" 54 the guy had for sale and much like your engine photo shows so I bought that.  It will give me a place to mount my coil out of the way of my oil filter housing, whenever I find the correct one.  The eBay seller was very helpful, seemed to know B's really well, and actually recommended this site as a resource.