Rear axle shims

[Mertz]

I was doing the rear brakes on my studebaker and had to adjust the end play on the passenger side. I took off the backing plates and thought I would remove equal shims on each side to solve the problem. I took out a 0.03 shim on the driver’s side and tightened up the backing plate and all play disappeared from both sides. I put all the shims back in and still no end play. Long story short the manual called for torquing the backing plate bolts to 35 to 40. I looked at my manual for my truck and it has no torque spec in the adjustment description. Is there a torque spec for the backing plate and the axle nut also provided in the studebaker manual?

[Sniper]

 I cannot answer your question directly. But what I have done in the past when I come across a fastener that the manual has no torque specification for is I look up the torque spec for a nut with that thread pitch and diameter. Now there are some important things you need to know to get the correct spec if it's a plated fastener you need to know what type of plating because that will affect the specification. But generally speaking those kind of things in our applications are unplated so you don't really have to worry about it. Also if you use any kind of lubricant on the threads that will change the torque specification. Usually at least in the later Mopar, the threads are lubricated with 30 weight engine oil for the specifications given. I don't know if that applies to Studebakers or even the early Mopar manuals

Edited October 16 by Sniper

[Mertz]

Thanks for the help. I guess since the axle nuts are castle nuts you would torque the nut but would then have to back it off to insert the cotter pin. I think I will torque the backing plate nuts the same as the Studebaker at 35ftlbs. At least I’ll know they are a consistent. I’ll torque the axle nut to the recommendation for the 3/4”x16 nut then see if the hole lines up. 

[JBNeal]

From the B-3 FSM brake service section:

 

[Merle Coggins]

20 hours ago, Mertz said:

... I guess since the axle nuts are castle nuts you would torque the nut but would then have to back it off to insert the cotter pin... 

 

Don't back off the nut on the axle shaft. Shown below is the torque spec. @ 142 minimum. Torque it to 142ish and then a little tighter as needed to line up the cotter pin. 

 

For other bolts, there are plenty of Standard Bolt Torque charts like this floating around that can be used when there isn't a specified torque for a specific fastener. 

[Tooljunkie]

At 142 foot-lbs i think the hub would be impossible to remove even with a proper puller. Most of the drums i have pulled were really stuck. And nothing states what if any lubricant should be used. 

[Young Ed]

11 hours ago, Tooljunkie said:

At 142 foot-lbs i think the hub would be impossible to remove even with a proper puller. Most of the drums i have pulled were really stuck. And nothing states what if any lubricant should be used. 

You don't want it to be lose. It'll rock back and forth and break the key or the keyway

[Mertz]

Studebaker recommends 120 to 130. I don’t think 142 is that much different. I got both the drums off the studebaker and the Plymouth with a regular puller. 

[TodFitch]

12 hours ago, Tooljunkie said:

At 142 foot-lbs i think the hub would be impossible to remove even with a proper puller. Most of the drums i have pulled were really stuck. And nothing states what if any lubricant should be used. 

No lubricant should be used.